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Old 19th February 2013, 11:46 AM   #101
Jadran is offline Jadran  Croatia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samoloko View Post
very Interesting comparison
you can use translator to read It
Звучание конденсаторов в фильтрах АС
Thanks for this

Very interesting read, and the proof that I did it right

Yaqin MS12B preamplifier - Modification


K73-16 94.5 points
Jantzen Superior Z-cap 86 points
Mundorf MCap MKP Audiophiler 82.5 points

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Old 19th February 2013, 04:41 PM   #102
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I am Interested to know
- how K73-16 behave as a local decoupling cap
- Is there a sound Improvement going high from 63V to 250V for a given value
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Old 19th February 2013, 05:08 PM   #103
Jadran is offline Jadran  Croatia
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@samoloko, I'm very pleased with them in signal path on my tube preamp, where value of 1uF/275V has been replaced with those of 1uF/400V.

Don't know exactly what do you mean by sound improvement if the value is higher in voltage? The higher value the more voltage cap can sustain. I simply followed the rule, or didn't go with mine lower than 200V.
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Old 20th February 2013, 06:49 AM   #104
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you are using K73-16 as a coupling or decoupling cap In your preamp
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Old 20th February 2013, 07:59 AM   #105
Jadran is offline Jadran  Croatia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samoloko View Post
you are using K73-16 as a coupling or decoupling cap In your preamp
I used petp's as bypassing-decoupling caps, exclusively
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Old 20th February 2013, 08:07 AM   #106
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single decoupling cap or bypassing other cap or both
have you tried as a coupling cap
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Old 20th February 2013, 09:16 AM   #107
Jadran is offline Jadran  Croatia
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Please refer to my post about the mod here for more info
Yaqin MS 12B phono amp- reviews

and no, not used as coupling caps.

Last edited by Jadran; 20th February 2013 at 09:21 AM.
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Old 22nd February 2013, 11:53 AM   #108
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I have to agree with Audiojoy completely, these caps are an absolute steal.

I bought a Bada PH32 hybrid power amp (they are no longer available) about 4 years after buying the PH12 h/amp. Due to badly damaging my back a few years ago, I never got around to modding the power amp until this year.

First thing I did was shunt the Alps blue with Z foils. I was already convinced that the Bada power amp was better designed than the h/amp. I could'nt wait to get rid of the Solen coupling caps - I tried my de Graaf silver foils which were good but replacing a 1 uF cap for a .47uF cap did'nt work in the power amp where it had in the h/amp. Then tried a 1uF Dynamicap - the sound was more dynamic but in an unreal way.

Then tried a 'space special' 1uF Russian polystyrene - this was much better but lacked somemotion and dynamics but the best so far.

Decided it was time to remove the 0.1uF cap that was fed by the driver valve - a 6F8G Tung Sol RP with a 0.1uF PETP 73-16 cap - it was one of those rare moments when you know you have cracked it!

From the get-go this little cap was simply amazing - it transformed the hybrid amp into something special - firstly it showed just how good the Tung Sol RP was - full of emotion, drive and dynamics, detail in spades, bass full-on only held back by crap o/put Solens. It also showed just how well the Chinese had designed this amp.

I have to award these caps with the highest order of The Dog's Bollocks - yes Audiojoy was spot on, these PETP caps favour slightly the top end and 'bright' is the best way to descibe their top-end performance but in no way can it they be descibed as harsh.

I was ready to change a lot of the caps and resistors in the Bada but now I can see that only the Solens and some signal path resistors need changing.

It still feels incredible that changing one small (but important) cap should transform the whole amp into something special. If I thought I could use 3.3uF/160V PETP caps for those awful 3uF/250 Solens I would - hell I think I will take a chance anyway.

I think they could transform many a phono stage as well - at the prices you would be crazy not to try them - buy with confidence.
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Old 2nd March 2013, 09:25 AM   #109
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PreSapian,
I too find these caps to be bright/glare at the top end as well - it's the only fault I can find. Your using them in a x/over, I'm using one (a 0.1uF/250V K73-16) as first cap taking it's feed from the driver tube (6F8G Tung Sol RP) in the pre-amp section of a hybrid amp.

It's significant that this 'glare' is worse using a vinyl source than CDP which of course has a brick wall filter. My phono stage, a Talk Audio MC3, does'nt use the normal roll-off filter at 20Hz since the manufacturer reckons that this induces phase shifts.

This little cap, 8mm x 20mm flies in the face of accepted wisdom - bigger is better - really! It transforms everything, I still find it hard to believe that the Wima MKP cap was so bad and literally sat on the whole system and this little bugger opens the whole thing up.

Examining the cap I find that the legs are tinned copper unlike a lot of Russian caps that have steel legs - so that's not the source of the glare. They are extremely well made and I reckon they are a late model - does anyone know when the Russians started making these. Peter the Dane/AudioNote is a very canny man, I've had a couple of run-ins with him - he sees the trends and gets in first. I'll bet he bought some of these PETPs years ago - essentially his super expensive caps are PETPs and I have never heard anyone say that his Mylar caps are have a bright glaring top-end.

I can't understand why the Russian engineers who made these caps hav'nt done a re-nag and designed out this glare because if they did they would wipe out a lot of western companies making uber expensive caps in no time at all.

I need to investigate whether shunting the Alps Blue with Z foils contributes to this brightness/glare: lowering the gain in my phono stage, because they let far more energy through than those awful Wima MKP 10s: next cap after the 0.1uF is a 1uF coupling cap, maybe I can use a Polystyrene 0.1uf and a PETP 1uF instead. Also a possibility is damping the metal case with various materials including Teflon plumbers tape/BluTak etc. - whatever this cap is definately worth persevering with.

On another thread a mod has posted links to the Jung/Marsh article on caps from 1980 - at the end of the article it says that changing particular caps can dramatically alter/improve the sound of equipment - how ironic that it should be a Mylar cap that the article says is the worst of all caps.
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Old 2nd March 2013, 09:30 AM   #110
mach1 is offline mach1  Australia
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Just give them another 100 hrs or so and you will find them totally neutral
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