Epoxy table/bar finish soft

[theAnonymous1]

Does anyone have any experience with epoxy table/bar type coatings?

I recently did a wood table top and I am less than happy with the results. The problem is if I set anything on the table that has any weight to it at all, like even a coffee cup, it leaves indentations.

I followed the instructions VERY carefully, making sure the two parts were thoroughly mixed. The finish was dry to the touch in about ~4hrs and I let it cure a full week before putting it to use (instructions say 72hrs).

Is this normal for this stuff, or did I buy a bad brand? Can anyone recommend a brand that won't have this problem? Can I put it overtop what's on there now?

Thanks

[mpmarino]

Maybe you need a bit of heat to help the catalyst (not a torch!- a warm room)? Was it cold (>65f or so) where you allowed it to cure?

I've never messed with the tabletop stuff, but all of my experience with 2 part finishes tells me that it must be cured in a reasonable warm - not too humid environment.....

[SheldonD]

I have used epoxy for strip canoe and paddles. And other thiings

too much catalyst can leave result soft.

A couple of years ago I had a car redone with a catalyst/epoxy type paint. The directions were wrong and too much catalyst was used and it had to be redone.

I would experiment with different ratios on test pieces to see what happens. pencil on the test pieces what ratios were used
and see if you can optimize the ratio.

Is there also a possibility of the table top being contaminated with another solvent before applying finish?

A heat cure will also give a more durable resut something on the order of 120deg F, 180 deg F will soften cured epoxy resin.

[theAnonymous1]

Room temp was a stable 72 degrees with north eastern winter time humidity levels.

I really can't think of anything I did wrong. The finish set in the time the directions said it would and there are no "wet" spots.

[KP11520]

Hi tA1,

What about thickness? How thick did you pour it and are there any limitations per application? I am only guessing here and it doesn't seem likely but maybe a few thin applications are better?

What a shame... Know anyone with a heat gun? OR

Some two part systems actually like high humidity too. Try putting it in a hot steamy bathroom with a heater at 80 degrees or so for a while. But if this is the case, it probably needed to be done right after application.

Try doing a search on Google with the manufacturers name and part number/name with no other info. Maybe others have had this problem and posted their remedies or what you read may prevent you from a lot of work (like a month to cure is typical rather than what the manufacturer said).

Good luck!

Regards//Keith

[theAnonymous1]

The table top is some kind of veneered oak(I have no idea really). There was a thin finish on it but I sanded it off and wiped the wood clean with denatured alcohol.

I don't have anything against trying again, other than the fact the stuff is around $50.

[theAnonymous1]

I put on a "seal coat" as per the instructions and then a "flood coat". It's hard to say how thick the flood coat is, somewhere between 1/16" and 1/8".

I think I will give it another go after letting this coat sit for a few weeks. I'm going to order a different brand online this time though and do it in a room with a space heater.

http://www.shopmaninc.com/kk121.html

Here are some pics; the first is of an indent the rubber foot of my laptop left after about 10 minutes.

[poobah]

It would seem all the bases have been covered:

1) contamination (from the substrate or elsewhere)

2) bad ratio (might it have been weight instead of volume specified???)

3) bad material (my guess)

I would try a high temp cure. Put the table in a room with a spcace heater. No amount of heat or time will fix bad material or ratio though.

I use ALOT of epoxy for wood finishing, but only as a sealer/filler... and never over stained wood. I always build the finish with urethane overcoats. Epoxy has poor resistance to UV.

My motive is water resistance in boats... But for an interior application; why not polyester "bar topping"?

[SheldonD]

One last thing:

Did you get in touch with manufacturer?

They should be interested in having happy customers and if it was a defective batch they should know about it.

[theAnonymous1]

Not a bad idea. I guess it would at least be worth a try to see what they have to say about it.

BTW, the product is called "Parks Super Glaze" by ZINSSER Co., Inc.

www.newparks.com