Having the last word.

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Re: Re: Yes, lets keep the subject

halojoy said:



some Filter ICs are:
National MF10 - (2 sections, possible to cascade into 4th order)
Burr-Brown UAF42 (Universal Active Filter, 4 sections)
Also Maxim (MAX) have several programable filters

UAF42 FILTER - a lot of information and applications

/halo - uses mostly 6dB and 12dB filters

Thanks for the reference Halo, the BB chip looks interesting!
 
I am tired of you SkinnyBoy -are you tired of me?

SkinnyBoy said:
SkinnyDrag
if you at least had as much substance in your post
as my friend pinkmouse

but
I expect it is too much to ask
from you :bigeyes:

/halo - on a swedish saturday-morning
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Picture shows the Ultimate Symbol of WarPower
in this world
 

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lol.. Anyway, I was just looking up some Sony Explode car amp specifications and prices.. well... a 222watt 2 channel amp costs ~$250!!!! but, That 222watts, is MAX!! lol.... Per channel, it boasts a MASSIVE 35watts RMS into 4 ohms... OR 40watts into 2 OHMS!!!!! So, thats a WHOPPNG bridged 80watts RMS, into a 4 ohm speaker... hmm.. lol FOR $250!!!! WHAT A RIP OFF!!! lol
 
interesting that you get most of this stuff "free". i wonder if sony know about this? more to the point, i wonder if national semi know about this. if you are going to be realistic, why not price everything retail and see how it works out. i think you will more than likely come out of this argument second best.

why do you keep posting this crap?
 
Sony doesn't get any of that for free. So add up how much the parts cost retail, add up the price of all the tools you used to build it and devide that by the quantity of amps you sell (seems like your talking about only one, that'll be alot then), then try timing yourself to see how long it takes you to build it, then multiply those hours by a half-descent salary, then test each unit you build to make sure it isn't defective, multiply the amout of hours you spend testing by a salary as well, add up how much it costs for you to pay for advertisements to make sure someone will actually buy that amp of yours, then multiply the amount of hours you spent thinking up the advertisement by a salary as well, then add all of those up plus alot more that I forgot and you'll probably end up with alot more than $250.
 
diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Joined 2001
Wow. You guys are really piling it up against Skinny Boy.

Well, Skinny Boy, they are correct in that it is indeed unrealistic to post about something costing too much if you have a source of free parts. Nevertheless, I do think you have a point in that you probably can build an 80 watt into 4 ohms amp for cheaper than the stated price.

By the way, is that stated price US dollars or Australian? The Australian dollar is about $.59 American.

Anyway, if you look up some wholesale electronic catalogs, I think that Skinny Boy would be shown to be correct in pricing. Remember, Sony is going to get those parts a lot cheaper than even discount houses can sell them. Don't forget that when you make thousands of a product, labor cost per product will drop drastically on a per unit basis.

So you would expect the unit to be a bit cheaper. Even if it does cost $147.00 American, that is not that much "bang for the buck".
 
Well, I didn't say I was going to sell these... Just that $250 for a 35watt stereo amp was RIP OFF!!!!!

Yeah, sure Free stuff doesn't count.... well, It does if I am not planning to sell these.. :rolleyes: I was just commenting, that people pay $250 for a "222watt" amp that'll give 80watts RMS, to power their "600watt" subwoofer, that is rather at 100watts RMS... QUITE FUNY!!!! lol
 
i understand that you aren't going to sell them, but you really should be careful making such bold statements. sure, you could build a better one for a similar price, but the other thing you failed to consider is that for the car audio market, size and appearance for low to mid range products comes before sound quality. how big are your amps going to be? would you be happy having them visible in a late model $40k+ car? probably not (unless of course Peter Daniel does a case for you). all of these are things that you should consider before beating your chest.
 
50-120 Hertz, 24 decibel octave, variable filters

Helix said:
http://store.yahoo.com/hsusubs/vtf3.html

How do u built a continuously varible 24db x-over? 4 gang pot?
halojoy said:

There are special Filter ICs, that have variable "resistances".
Those R:s are made up of switches. These are often digital controlled.
By very fast switching and by variate the pulsewith, (PWM)
the quote of closed/open time of these switches,
you can alter those resistors (or in fact you alter how much current that passes. When you change a resistor the effect is a different current flow.)
But as you say you need to alter 4 resistors,
so a 4-gang pot is needed, with very good matching/linearity.

some Filter ICs are:
National MF10 - (2 sections, possible to cascade into 4th order)
Burr-Brown UAF42 (Universal Active Filter, 4 sections)
Also Maxim (MAX) have several programable filters

UAF42 FILTER - a lot of information and applications

/halo - uses mostly 6dB and 12dB filters
Helix,
as you have no commented or thanked me
about this way to make an adjustable filter,
I can only think that you are the LAZY type.

They are so lazy, that they do not read more than the LAST post.
Those ones that do not know what it is all about, in the threads.
Those who mostly misunderstand what is going on.
Those who always enter a discussion in the most twisted way.
Those who you only wishes to go to a warmer place.
Those you think could go do something useful instead.

###################################################################

An advice to all of us:
Do not post until you have read, understood the subject
and read at least the 5 last posts.
That will keep a lot of unnessesary bad feelings
to a minimum at OUR FORUM.

And if a guy takes his time to try and answer to a problem
you have, please give him a hint that you appreciate it.
Or at least show that you have noticed.


I do not think everything can be perfect at so big forum,
but it could be a lot better in some aspects.
Among that this matter, I took some time to write about.

###################################################################

/halo - reads at least 5 last posts :cool: when he majestatically enters a thread :cool:
 
PC Power Supply for Celeron

SkinnyBoy said:
Does anyone know where I can get a CPU wattage usage to compare Celerons? I have a Celeron 433 and I wanna know what the minumum power powersupply I can use is.... Basically, I wanna put it in the car, and am not sure if my sproggy will be powerfull enough...
Minimum power to a PC? Or just the CPU.
There is no such thing as a PC with only CPU.
There are Graphic cards harddisks and a lot of stuff.
And you want to add things later.

Use a normal 200-250 Watt supply.
That was enough for that time Celeron was used.
300 Watt is always a good choice.
As old PC-supplies, 200 Watts, are enourmously cheap,
you will get it for almost nothing
at your local recycle store or second hand shop.

/halo - think this question was very easy to answer
- Skinny should have known this himself, he is a great PC-man :cool:
 
Re: PC Power Supply for Celeron

halojoy said:

Minimum power to a PC? Or just the CPU.
There is no such thing as a PC with only CPU.
There are Graphic cards harddisks and a lot of stuff.
And you want to add things later.

Use a normal 200-250 Watt supply.
That was enough for that time Celeron was used.
300 Watt is always a good choice.
As old PC-supplies, 200 Watts, are enourmously cheap,
you will get it for almost nothing
at your local recycle store or second hand shop.

/halo - think this question was very easy to answer
- Skinny should have known this himself, he is a great PC-man :cool:

Well, Halo, it just so happens that I already knew that..
:rolleyes: But, 200watts is a MASSIVE overkill.... The sproggy supply will give about 80watts and people have used them to run upto about 800MHz CPUs.... 200watts would run most funny loaded celeron motherboards with 2 HDs and all the drive bays filled.. :rolleyes: :bigeyes: But, All I want to run is a motherboard, Graphics card, sound card and HD.... CDrom (or DVD rom) will be from another powersupply...
 
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