Ballast Questions

Meico · 20th February 2005, 08:19 PM

I bought a ballast off of ebay for about 10 bucks. It is used but it is in good shape. It is 250w. The questions that I have is that this ballast did not come with any schematics so I am not sure about how to set it up. there are four wires that come out of it they are labled com(there are two of these and I think that these should to a switch), also a wire labled 277v (I figure this is a input and it needs 277volts), and the last one is labled cap (I guess that goes to the capacitor). If anyone could tell me if I got this right that would be great. also where does the wireing go from here I think that the capacitor then goes to the light. Thanks a lot for any help.

Meico · 21st February 2005, 06:28 AM

Ok if anyone is wondering, I sent an e-mail to the guy that I bought the ballast from. The connectors are; The 277v is the input, the two com cables goto the negative from the wall and the negitive on the bulb respectivy, and the Cap does goto the capacitor then the light.

Guy Grotke · 22nd February 2005, 08:28 AM

So your local electric company offers 277 Volt AC service?

TaskMaster · 22nd February 2005, 02:55 PM

I didn't have the heart to say it... at least it was just $10.

Guy Grotke · 22nd February 2005, 09:18 PM

This seems to be used for quite a bit of outdoor lighting, like street lights. Maybe it is a transformer option for industrial or municiple customers who need to light some parking lots or streets.

Seriously though, Meico:

MH ballasts also come as "quad" voltage input types. Then you get transformer taps for using it with 120 volts or 240 volts. I don't think a 277 volt ballast will be worth anything to you. I don't think it will run a MH lamp if you connect it to 240 volts. The lamps tend to be pretty particular about getting the right power.

Meico · 23rd February 2005, 07:42 AM

ooooh, I did not think of that..... wait the guy I got it from was here in america. I guess ill try it anyway. I knew that it was too good to be true. Ok I might be back on the market for a ballast now, any sugestions so I dont do this again.

Guy Grotke · 23rd February 2005, 10:06 AM

Just find one to match your lamp that can run on 120 VAC 60 Hz. You can't just buy a "250 Watt MH ballast". It has to be the right type of 250 Watt MH ballast.

There are magnetic and electronic ballasts. Another parameter is probe start versus pulse start. Look up the specs for your lamp, starting at the website where you bought it or the lamp manufacturer's website. You will find something like "ANSI M80 ballast" listed in the specs.

Then you can look locally or online at somplace like goodmart, prolighting, elights, businesslights, for a ballast with that ANSI type. Magnetic are the cheapest. You can use a tri- or quad-voltage one, as long as one of the voltages is 120 or 125 volts.

Make sure you get a complete kit with mounting rails, a capacitor, and an ignitor, if you get a magnetic ballast.

telemonster · 11th March 2005, 06:41 PM

Guy - any idea if the Metal Halide ballasts used for commercial lighting will work with short arc lamps? I want to drive a HMI 1200W/GS lamp (1200 watt metal halide short arc). Ballast options seem limited. I've found 1500 watt ballasts used for metal halide lights (magnetic ballasts). The price seems right on them, about $100. Just not sure if the two will jive? The 1200 watt short arc lamps are about $130 each and last 750 hours. My goal is really high output projector. In terms of light output versus bulb cost, that is a bargain.

Backyard drive-in, etc.

Guy Grotke · 11th March 2005, 07:59 PM

Metal Halide lamps are very particular. I think you have to read the lamp's spec sheet and find a ballast of exactly the right type to drive it. This is not like running a piece of electronic equipment with a higher-current power supply than it needs. (Which is fine.) Since these ballasts limit the power of the lamp arc, running a 1200 Watt lamp with a 1500 Watt ballast may be a good way to see a MH lamp explode.

Or if it not the right ballast type, then the lamp may not start at all. The electronic ballasts can be more versatile, in that they can sense what the lamp is doing and adjust the average voltage, peak voltage, and half-cycle duration to start and run MH lamps closer to spec. If the lamp spec sheet says you have to use an electronic ballast, then you have to.

telemonster · 11th March 2005, 08:33 PM

Ah. Much thanks. I did notice the bulb voltage I believe is 100vac, not 110, not 120, not 115. So I shall investigate farther.

The stage/studio light world seems to use them, perhaps I can find the proper ballast from that world.

Club lights tend to use MSR-1200 and such.

20th February 2005, 08:19 PM	#1
Meico diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Iowa	Ballast Questions I bought a ballast off of ebay for about 10 bucks. It is used but it is in good shape. It is 250w. The questions that I have is that this ballast did not come with any schematics so I am not sure about how to set it up. there are four wires that come out of it they are labled com(there are two of these and I think that these should to a switch), also a wire labled 277v (I figure this is a input and it needs 277volts), and the last one is labled cap (I guess that goes to the capacitor). If anyone could tell me if I got this right that would be great. also where does the wireing go from here I think that the capacitor then goes to the light. Thanks a lot for any help.

22nd February 2005, 08:28 AM	#3
Guy Grotke diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Vista, CA	277 volt AC So your local electric company offers 277 Volt AC service?

22nd February 2005, 09:18 PM	#5
Guy Grotke diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Vista, CA	277 volts not impossible This seems to be used for quite a bit of outdoor lighting, like street lights. Maybe it is a transformer option for industrial or municiple customers who need to light some parking lots or streets. Seriously though, Meico: MH ballasts also come as "quad" voltage input types. Then you get transformer taps for using it with 120 volts or 240 volts. I don't think a 277 volt ballast will be worth anything to you. I don't think it will run a MH lamp if you connect it to 240 volts. The lamps tend to be pretty particular about getting the right power.

23rd February 2005, 10:06 AM	#7
Guy Grotke diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Vista, CA	ballast suggestions Just find one to match your lamp that can run on 120 VAC 60 Hz. You can't just buy a "250 Watt MH ballast". It has to be the right type of 250 Watt MH ballast. There are magnetic and electronic ballasts. Another parameter is probe start versus pulse start. Look up the specs for your lamp, starting at the website where you bought it or the lamp manufacturer's website. You will find something like "ANSI M80 ballast" listed in the specs. Then you can look locally or online at somplace like goodmart, prolighting, elights, businesslights, for a ballast with that ANSI type. Magnetic are the cheapest. You can use a tri- or quad-voltage one, as long as one of the voltages is 120 or 125 volts. Make sure you get a complete kit with mounting rails, a capacitor, and an ignitor, if you get a magnetic ballast.

11th March 2005, 06:41 PM	#8
telemonster diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Virginia Beach	Ballasts... Guy - any idea if the Metal Halide ballasts used for commercial lighting will work with short arc lamps? I want to drive a HMI 1200W/GS lamp (1200 watt metal halide short arc). Ballast options seem limited. I've found 1500 watt ballasts used for metal halide lights (magnetic ballasts). The price seems right on them, about $100. Just not sure if the two will jive? The 1200 watt short arc lamps are about $130 each and last 750 hours. My goal is really high output projector. In terms of light output versus bulb cost, that is a bargain. Backyard drive-in, etc.


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21st February 2005, 06:28 AM	#2
Meico diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Iowa	Ok if anyone is wondering, I sent an e-mail to the guy that I bought the ballast from. The connectors are; The 277v is the input, the two com cables goto the negative from the wall and the negitive on the bulb respectivy, and the Cap does goto the capacitor then the light.

22nd February 2005, 02:55 PM	#4
TaskMaster diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: USA	I didn't have the heart to say it... at least it was just $10.

23rd February 2005, 07:42 AM	#6
Meico diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Iowa	ooooh, I did not think of that..... wait the guy I got it from was here in america. I guess ill try it anyway. I knew that it was too good to be true. Ok I might be back on the market for a ballast now, any sugestions so I dont do this again.

11th March 2005, 07:59 PM	#9
Guy Grotke diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Vista, CA	no Metal Halide lamps are very particular. I think you have to read the lamp's spec sheet and find a ballast of exactly the right type to drive it. This is not like running a piece of electronic equipment with a higher-current power supply than it needs. (Which is fine.) Since these ballasts limit the power of the lamp arc, running a 1200 Watt lamp with a 1500 Watt ballast may be a good way to see a MH lamp explode. Or if it not the right ballast type, then the lamp may not start at all. The electronic ballasts can be more versatile, in that they can sense what the lamp is doing and adjust the average voltage, peak voltage, and half-cycle duration to start and run MH lamps closer to spec. If the lamp spec sheet says you have to use an electronic ballast, then you have to.

11th March 2005, 08:33 PM	#10
telemonster diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Virginia Beach	Ah. Much thanks. I did notice the bulb voltage I believe is 100vac, not 110, not 120, not 115. So I shall investigate farther. The stage/studio light world seems to use them, perhaps I can find the proper ballast from that world. Club lights tend to use MSR-1200 and such.

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