Sylvania BriteArc lamp

[I_eat_flowers]

okay alapimba to get ya mind clear.

small/cheap/cold ---> not possible

I can advise you two good lamps:

HQI-T 150 W NDL G12 Base Osram
CDM-T 150 W /942 G12 Base Philips

[alapimba]

Hi

I'll do some searches in local stores here in Portugal to see if i can find that lamps and respective ballasts.
That lamps are similar or completely different? I mean.. if i buy one lamp and respective ballast that ballast can't be used with the other lamp?

Thanks for your advices IEA.

[TaskMaster]

Both bulbs he listed are pulse start 150watt, so yes the same ballast could run either.

[alapimba]

ah cool.
and about that other lamp that i asked in the beginning of the forum.. the BriteArc lamp.. will work too or it's a diferent thing?

[TaskMaster]

That lamp you indicated is a probe start from what I gather (it states it uses HPS ballasts) and 'technically' uses another ballast. I have seen people stating they can use probe start bulbs with pulse start ballasts. I've not done it myself nor am I recommending it - just telling you what I've read.

[ace3000_1]

Well wheather its a kick start, pulse start, fart start, heart start or wheel start there are 2 things thats more overly important, and thats the voltage and current.

In the link below there are the specs for various bulbs. Your ballast, and ignitor must match the voltage and amperage of your bulb. Failing this it simply wont start.

For an example its happend to me. I use a CMH 150w the amperage draw is 1.8amps and the voltage is 95v, my ballast has exactly this. I went to try a CDM-T 150w on this ballast that has the specs of 1.8amps and 90v. No go, it didnt run.

Metal halide bulbs are the most sensitive of the bunch when it comes to power and amperage. If your gear doesnt put out exactly what the bulb requires it simply wont fire as i soon found out from testing and later reading.

Alap, my advice to you is to buy a lamp kit, this will be the easiest thing for you. The bulbs IEF mentioned are also fine for your lcd and run reasonably cool.

The Osram bulb will not run on the gear for a CDM-T, or vise verser.

http://net2.alpha.net.nz/ATCO/Contro...2569b3007e87ae!OpenDocument

Trev

[TaskMaster]

Originally posted by ace3000_1
Well wheather its a kick start, pulse start, fart start, heart start or wheel start there are 2 things thats more overly important, and thats the voltage and current.

I don't agree in the case of trying to start a pulse start bulb on a probe start ballast. Your amperage and voltage can be exact, but without an ignitor you aren't starting that bulb.

[ace3000_1]

Probe start lamps can be used on SOME HPS ballasts pulse start no. Probe start still have an ignitor, some are bult in to the bulb. The only difference between a pulse start and a probe start is that the probe start has an extra wire inside to help start the arc, normally coupled with a diode.

A pulse start ballast pulses itself from the ignitor to create a charge, normally 5k, probe start dont do this, they either use a totally different ignitor or the bulb has its own built in, (normally a resistor). The extra wire in the bulb helps start the lamp.

Trev

[TaskMaster]

Yes, I wish I could use the nice Coralife S57 I have here from my old reef setup, but I guess I will just be stealing the enclosure.

Ace - while we're talking ballasts, have you ever used any of the F-CAN ballasts that are all enclosed like the flourescent ballasts? You can see some info here. I'm debating using that for the CDM-T 150.

Thanks!

[ace3000_1]

Ya the one i have is all sealed up, they run quieter, infact mines silent.

For a CDM-T you need the following:

90v
1.8amps
Thermal/Overload protection
5kv starter
Pulse start
150w

If you can find a ballast that has this np.

Trev