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#41 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: BC
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Interesting. So tarnishing is endothermic. Thats handy.
Any idea what coating is on the dichroic reflectors? |
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#42 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Basically, my experience with chrome is that it has a fairly low heat tolerence. It turns blues and purples and even flakes off with enough heat. (Yeah, it's not good on the white-hot race manifolds.) Quite honestly I am suprised I have yet to read anyone mentioning the color WHITE when painting for reflection. Power-coating the surface white would work great, as it is VERY reflective and will not stress from heat. I may try this. The second option would be to POLISH that aluminum or Stainless part, you'd be surprised how bright aluminum especially can get. I will for sure try this before trying a white finish. Also, isn't solder like 95% silver? Why not just get the really thick torch-solder and melt that inside the reflector? Probably would take a while but that's basically all that silver plating guy will end up doing. -Steve |
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#43 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: BC
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Good to know chome doesnt like heat.
I thought platers dip into a tank and pass a current through? Just melt solder on? Is this really a method they use? The layer has to stay even for our purpose so as not to distort the optics. I can see this happening in a dipping tank but not with a stick and torch. |
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#44 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Australia
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Quote:
Quote:
DJ |
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#45 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Vista, CA
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White painted surfaces can be very reflective, but they make very bad mirrors! The difference is a diffuse reflection versus a specular reflection. White objects give you a diffuse reflection with the light rays going in all directions. A uniform metal surface can give you a specular reflection with each ray following the angle of incidence = angle of reflection relationship. This is why we don't use pieces of white paper as mirrors.
To direct all the rays to where they need to go, we need a specular reflection. There are lots of ways to get a uniform metal surface: Classic mirrors are silver chemically deposited on a smooth glass surface. Plating uses electrical current to coat a conductive surface with metal atoms by neutralizing the charge on metallic ions in a solution. Vapor deposition lets you precisely control the thickness of a metallic coating on an object. Polishing mechanically removes everything but the uniform surface. Most reflectors are made by a combination of such processes. Plating is not at all the same as dipping in solder, but I think you could make a rough silver coating if you started with a very clean copper reflector and then dipped it in molten silver. This would be a bit tricky, since silver melts at 961 C, and copper melts at 1083 C. So you would need very good temperature control. After coating, you would need to polish the surface to make it specular. This would all be much more difficult and expensive than electroplating. Soldering the copper surface with a modern lead-free solder would not work at all, since such "silver solders" are mostly tin. (They just don't have any lead.) |
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#46 | ||
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Quote:
![]() Trev
__________________
"Every technique can be used in a great many ways, but mastering it, thats what realy counts." |
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#47 | ||
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Plating is a simple process and this is how you do it; You take a container, put hydrochloric acid in it, connect the electricity to the item to be plated and also to the acid to complete the circuit. You put the clean metal in and let the plating happen untill the desired thickness is reached. I'm pretty sure Chrome is 1 coating of tin then 2 or 3 coatings of nickel to give that nice luster. This is very similar to anodizing aluminum (same acid works but you use a special dye) and I know of people who have done a DIY job and it turned out as good as a pro job, provided enough power. As for powdercoating, this may be a bit more feasable as you can buy the whole setup for under $200 and will use it on other things too. Quote:
-Steve |
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#48 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Australia
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Quote:
DJ |
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#49 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: California.
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I talked to a local silver plating shop, they implied plating the Ikea Soare reflector would be about us$30-50. It would need nickel plating first (not sure if that's another $30-50). Curious if it's that expensive elsewhere? Also curious about the DIY process you mention SmC252.
Regarding light, afaik 10% loss/gain anywhere in the system means 10% loss/gain on the final screen image. |
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#50 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Vista, CA
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Yes, the right white coating can reflect a bit more light than many polished metal surfaces (especially chrome or stainless steel), but the problem is not the total reflectivity. It is the directions the reflected light goes: Start with a piece of paper and a mirror in a dark room. Then shine a laser beam at the paper. The red spot on the paper can be seen from every angle of a solid 180 degree arc, because the paper scatters the reflected light in all directions.
Then shine the laser beam at the mirror. All of the reflected light goes off in one direction, making a bright spot on the wall somewhere. That "bright spot" is thousands of times brighter than if you tried to use the paper as the reflector. When we use a reflector in a projector, we need as much of the light as possible to go toward the LCD in a useful direction. If you powder-coat your reflector, then most of the light will not get to the LCD because it gets "reflected" in all directions. Charlie10: The underlying coats of nickel (and maybe copper) are included in the silver plating quote. They always have to do that. Silver just won't plate onto aluminum or steel without them. But I don't think you need to plate the aluminum Ikea napkin holder. You can polish aluminum up to 95% reflectivity. Much better than stainless steel's 65%, and I think chrome is even lower! |
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