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Old 15th March 2004, 08:59 PM   #31
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Man when i read this i get the shivers. My dad fixes tv's and the tube runs on 25kV I think. He always (for 23 years now, lol) warns me when i am helping him. You have to be very very very very carefull when working/measuring with more than live voltage. Please this is only for electronic profressionals, not for school kids. Also removing protecting glas from bulbs does not sound well in my ears. Come on people is your live worth less than building a projector?

So to the skilled people i say: go on. Your doing great work.
To the non skilled i say: stay away from dangerus electronics.
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Old 15th March 2004, 09:37 PM   #32
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well i see all this as a great learning experience, in electronics, and optics. As for the leathal voltage, I'm much more careful than I used to be, because about 4 months ago I was playing with the power supply for a computer monitor, and messing around with antigravity lifter things (wicked cool!). Anyway, I ended up getting a little too close and got zapped, and my arm shot straight out so fast I couldn't believe it. The feeling of being electricuted once is enough to teach me a lesson.
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Old 15th March 2004, 09:40 PM   #33
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The difference between 220 and 5000volt is large.
It will kill you.

But ok I don't want to attack you. Please be very carefull!!!!
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Old 16th March 2004, 11:18 AM   #34
Tuga is offline Tuga  United Kingdom
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Quote:
You have to be very very very very carefull when working/measuring with more than live voltage

I totally agree with you.
Thatís why in every post I warn people about it.

Also, all my instructions are for the low voltage part of the circuit.
Still you need to be carefull since the PSU needs to be opened and there are high voltages inside even after switched OFF.

It does worry me that someone might get hurt or killed trying to save a couple of hundred £ ...

Everyone please, If you are not sure what you are doín ..Then DONíT do it!!!
Ask for someoneís help.
I have to do it some times and Iím a qualified professional.
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Old 16th March 2004, 01:36 PM   #35
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I have to agree too, and I think that before you try something new it should be approved by an electrician.
Tuga:
How do we discharge psu's and check if they are discharged?
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Old 16th March 2004, 02:41 PM   #36
Tuga is offline Tuga  United Kingdom
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Hi,

The easyest way to discharge a Cap is to put a load across its pins, or if you're patient, very patient, wait for it to lose charge lol


This guys have already said it:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread/t-27966.html
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Old 17th March 2004, 04:28 PM   #37
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About using the built in UHP ballast to metal halide lamps:
Here is a good link to all about discharge lamps, I think I have posted it before: http://members.misty.com/don/dschlamp.html
As I have sad before most UHP-lamps run on DC-voltages and mh-lamps donīt. From the link above:

"Metal halide and sodium lamps should not get DC. Use these only with ballasts that give the bulb AC. In metal halide lamps, ions from the molten halide salts can leach into hot quartz in the presence of a DC electric field. This can cause strains in the quartz arc tube. At the ends of the arc tube, electrolysis may occur, releasing chemically reactive halide salt components that can damage the arc tube or the electrodes. The arc tube may crack as a result."

Mh and HQI have a ignition voltage 3000-4000kV, UHP have 5000kV.

Here is an other link how HID lamps works: http://www.ballastdesign.com/overview.html

So I think the best and safest is to try to disconnect the built in ballast, and use a external mh-ballast to the 150W mh lamp.
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Old 17th March 2004, 05:09 PM   #38
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Here is an example of what happens when you run a HQI/cdm-t lamp on a high frequence HPS-ballast, the inner arc-tube is cracked and Iīm glad that it didnīt explode ! So be careful and use only right ballast to right lamp.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg crackhid.jpg (11.5 KB, 1174 views)
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Old 17th March 2004, 06:56 PM   #39
Tuga is offline Tuga  United Kingdom
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Hi,

Thanks Mathias!!

I have found that my projector uses a DC lamp.
This more likely than not means that a MH lamp will NOT work with the original Ballast/PSU.
I will not try it since I think it will be a waste of a good lamp.
So I will be ordering a 150W ballast, an ignitor and a 150W HQI lamp instead for around £60 the lot. Unless someone knows where I can get it cheaper in the UK...
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Old 18th March 2004, 08:04 AM   #40
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You could give www.internationallamps.co.uk a try, I still have to check the price on the 150w cdm-t bulb, but the prewired ballast capacitor and ignitor is only £25.45, and the holder is only £3.49, prices excluding VAT, and delivery is £2.49
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