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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Colorado
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Hello all! I am starting to get things rolling with my projector. I've finally taken my LCD apart and here is how that goes:
![]() This is the animal. Ok, let's take this baby apart! ![]() Here you can see the arrows point to all the screws you need to remove to get the back off. Careful, the bottom is weighted and hurts if you drop it on your foot. ![]() Once you get the back cover off, you get to do A LOT of unscrewing. You'll have a small zip-loc bag full of screws when you're done. Not shown in the picture, but I believe there are four screws on the sides of the metal frame you have to remove as well. ![]() ![]() These are the boards to the buttons on the front (power, menu, etc). You'll need to unscrew these too. ![]() Once you get that panel off, these boards are revealed. The long thin one on the left is to power the backlight (you'll have to unplug the four cables attached to it). The other is the main controller board. The cable with three arrows pointing to it has to be unplugged (gently!). ![]() With all the housing taken off, the front looks like this. The metal frame around the LCD is actually usable. I am going to use this frame instead of making a new one out of wood. This one fits perfectly, why not? ![]() Once you get all those screws taken out.... you get to take out MORE screws! The four screws in the corners actually hold the backlight down. Once those are unscrewed, the backlight will pop out (I say pop because there are little tabs all the way around the frame). Remove the backlight VERY CAREFULLY. The board under the metal panel is sitting on top of the backlight. If you just yank out the backlight, the board could crash and crack / scratch the LCD. Also, be mindful of the FFC ribbon. The "middle" screws (arrows pointing) hold down a panel that covers the controller. ![]() Once you pop the backlight out, this is what you are left with. That board is what is underneath the metal panel. Just above the chip (the black square on the board) is a connector. There was a ribbon plugged in there. You'll need to unplug that. Notice the FFC ribbon on the left. That's gonna need an extension. The ribbons on the bottom (ten of them) are the ones you REALLY don't want to break. Those break, your LCD is essentially dead. CAREFUL! ![]() A nice close up of that ribbon. 20 pins on that one. ![]() Like I said, I reused the metal frame. There are two plastic pieces that need to go back in. 1. A black THIN frame (goes around the edge and keeps the LCD in place). The yellow arrow is pointing to it. 2. On top of the black frame is a white frame. The white frame needed to be modified a little. You can see the jagged edges in the picture (pink arrows). There used to be an overhang that goes all the way around the white frame (inside of it). I took a pair of pliers and broke the overhang out (carefully). With the overhang out, the white frame snaps back into place (the tabs) and then screws down (the four corner screws). The LCD is now firmly in place and ready for action! ![]() Here is the LCD taken apart but with the modified frame assembled and ready for the projector. ![]() Here are all the controllers. I don't think I will have to use the backlight power board. This panel took a good hour or so to rip apart. I actually had to drill out some of the screws because my screwdrivers were stripping them. How to drill out screws? Take a drill with a metal bit that is slightly smaller than the head of the screw. Drill directly down on the head until the head pops off. You'll end up with a ring around the drill bit. Just take it off and move to the next screw. Overall, I think this monitor will work quite nicely. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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I am going to try stripping a Dell E151FP; thanks for the info...hopefully mine will go as nicely as yours....
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Colorado
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Quote:
My only advice is to go SLOWLY. Those ribbons are not heavy duty by any means. Only bend them as many times as necessary (ie to get the backlight out and to mount it). It's not hard to do, just need to be careful. Good luck! |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Remsham,
How'd it go with that 15" lcd? Found a ton on ebay but wasn't sure how DIY friendly they were. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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That's a project for this weekend...when I'm done I'll post some pics and let you know....
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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That would be great. Been looking for someone to post results on a 15" dell. Lots of them end up on ebay because of most company's replacment cycles. Look forward to your results. What kind of box are you building for it? LL kit or custom?
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Central FL
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did you have to extend that 20 pin FCC for this Lcd to work properly?
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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hey super dave doyou mind if i use these picks for my web site ? as a example of how to strip this monitor
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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So what kind of replacement FFCs do you have to buy? I checked mouser.com and there are so many different types of FFCs and connectors... flexible flat cables are more popular than I thought
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| *Australia Only* Dell 24" LCD Group Buy | Andrew Steele | Group Buys | 0 | 9th March 2005 12:26 AM |
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