I think I've done enough research on car amps at this point to not be a complete pita when asking for help on fixing one. I do, however, need to replace the freebie harbor freight MM I've been using with one that actually works before getting my feet wet.
Any advice would be appreciated, Im not opposed to buying used, just looking for a decent meter that won't break the bank, but will be good enough for what I intend to do.
Thanks in advance.
Any advice would be appreciated, Im not opposed to buying used, just looking for a decent meter that won't break the bank, but will be good enough for what I intend to do.
Thanks in advance.
My recommendation is to get one decent multimeter, fluke is not cheap but sets an excellent benchmark, and ALSO get one ir two cheap ones. It is really useful to have a meter across the supply rails, and sometimes one watching current when you are debugging. Usually any old meter can do this.
If you are new to DIY I would say don't spend more than US$100, as an meter at that price will be ok, and unless you are setting up a calibration lab, the money would be better spent on wine or beer
If you are new to DIY I would say don't spend more than US$100, as an meter at that price will be ok, and unless you are setting up a calibration lab, the money would be better spent on wine or beer
You don't mention your price range or desired features.
Two good low price ones are the Amprobe AM-510 and the Fluke 101. Both of these are VERY solid meters with excellent and safe input protection. The fluke is more safe but with fewer features, the Amprobe is slightly less safe but with a lot more features. Both are in the $40-50 price range, the biggest gotcha is the Fluke lacks any sort of current function.
Two good low price ones are the Amprobe AM-510 and the Fluke 101. Both of these are VERY solid meters with excellent and safe input protection. The fluke is more safe but with fewer features, the Amprobe is slightly less safe but with a lot more features. Both are in the $40-50 price range, the biggest gotcha is the Fluke lacks any sort of current function.
FWIW, I bought a Fluke 87 in 1995 and it's still going strong. It has many features and attributes that make it quite useful for audio work, and after many years of reliable service the calibration is still spot on. Yeah, they're pricey, but well worth it. I wouldn't trade it for anything else.
Mike
Mike
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