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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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i just want to say hello to everyone and introduce myself to you all... i'm sure i'll be spending alot of time on here and bugging you all to death
i started in audio when i was 12 taking apart a pair of computer speakers and making a set of small tower speakers, from there i began messing with the small full range computer speakers and found that if i put them in a big box and used alot of them you could get really big sound dispite the size. i continued collecting amps and speakers left and right using dozens of speakers at a time in cabinets but always wanting more. When i was 18 my best friend purchased a carver 6250 Holographic Quadrophic stereo amplifier and a pair of Klipsch KG 4.5 tower speakers... and after hearing them became my hero... well he soon tired of them and decided to chase girls and didn't have room for them anymore so he sold the carver and speakers to me for 150.00 when moving down to arkansas my parents told me i could have the carport to close in as my own room... under the condition that i soundproof it. XD well it's not soundproof anymore with the addition of a 18" Electro-Voice EVX-18B subwoofer(games and movies)and a Peavey Black Widow 18" (used for music) Recently the crowning jewel of the system was obtained on Ebay, a carver C-4000 Hologram and Autocoralator pre-amp. The system now includes: Sony VPH-1272Q projector, Sony 1052 Projector, Amps: Modded Carver C-4000 pre amp, Carver 6250 amp for the mains, Carver TFM-35 power amp for the subs, Behringer Pro Duel 31 band eq, Nandy 31 band eq for the subs. Speakers: Klipsch KG 4.5 tower speakers for the front, Yamaha NS-555 towers for the rears, 18" Electro-Voice EVX-18B subwoofer for games and movies. Peavy Black Widow 18 for music. Future projects are to upgrade the front main speakers to horns and to make a full length horn sub for ultimate bass. Mods: so far the only real mod i have done besides cabinets is the new carver C-4000. i'm in the middle of converting the whole system to XLR sheilded interconects and waiting for the store to rest of the custom XLR terminals in monday or tuesday. Pics... ![]() ![]() the modded C-4000 ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgetown, On
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Hi carvernut,
Welcome to DiyAudio. Enjoy! I'm sure we will meet in the forums. A comment. You need at least 4" clear above the receiver and TFM35. This is true for most amps, although some do require 6" or more depending on how hot they run. There are components on the circuit boards that will overheat. I'm not sure I would have installed XLR connectors in the C-4000. Often, balanced audio connections do not fully deliver. There are times when balanced is required, but they are far and few between in a home setting. You should also understand that there is often a considerable difference between "conventional wisdom" (what you read and hear about) and reality. Knowing this should keep more dollars in your wallet and your equipment in serviceable condition. -Chris
__________________
"Just because you can, doesn't mean you should" © my Wife |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
and for the XLR's i installed them for shielding reasons, although i'm not 100% sure about the diff between balanced and un-balanced conecters. it's setup so the xlr's or rca's can be used... or both at the same time |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
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Welcome aboard!
Those top two pics... quite artistic effect
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgetown, On
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Hi carvernut,
When you space them out, also install a shield to block airflow at the bottom of the next unit. Fresh air in from the front, exhaust out the rear. An angled shield that does this is more efficient than a shelf. Quote:
-Chris
__________________
"Just because you can, doesn't mean you should" © my Wife |
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