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No internal power Valvestate 8280
No internal power Valvestate 8280
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Old Yesterday, 04:00 AM   #11
Gnobuddy is offline Gnobuddy  Canada
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Quote:
Originally Posted by Enzo View Post
Those regulators are just sticking up from the board, no support.
I noticed that, and the PCB markings that suggest the regulator body was intended to lie flat on top of the PCB. No through-hole in the PCB to bolt down the regulator's heat-sink tab, but at least it wouldn't be so tall and prone to vibration.


I wonder if those regulators have already been replaced once?


-Gnobuddy
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Old Yesterday, 04:15 AM   #12
Gnobuddy is offline Gnobuddy  Canada
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Quote:
Originally Posted by thoglette View Post
Don't forget the other option: a bad day at the factory.
I soldered something for a work colleague recently, and was mortified when he brought it back with a loose connection. I had made the worst cold-solder joint I've produced since I was maybe ten years old.

-Gnobuddy
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Old Yesterday, 08:23 AM   #13
prospect is offline prospect
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Join Date: Jul 2018
I am grateful about your support.
Very appreciated.

I bought it second hand so I do not have the complete story but after some months of use it lost power. It was fixed for free and I was told it was a cold-solder joint. If I remember correct the fan did not start as well.
So yes, it has been repaird before.

As you see in the pic there are visible cracks at pin 1 and 3. When wiggle the reg pin 1 and 3 moves on the back of the PCB but not pin 2. I removed the reg and as I suspected, pin 2 is broken at the PCB. Interesting that it could work flawless but break next power on.

The value between pin 3 and 5 is aprox 1.9 Mohm.

Could the broken reg pin 2 caused the problem?

Last edited by prospect; Yesterday at 08:28 AM.
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Old Yesterday, 09:05 AM   #14
prospect is offline prospect
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Cannot buy the parts locally.
Anything else I should order/update?
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Old Yesterday, 01:19 PM   #15
voltwide is offline voltwide  Ireland
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Join Date: Jan 2010
For me it is not evident that this regulator failed at all.

Did you re-flow the solder joints of the regulator?
Did you check it afterwards?
You could check this by inserting some fuse like 1A slow blow or similar.
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Old Yesterday, 08:44 PM   #16
Gnobuddy is offline Gnobuddy  Canada
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Quote:
Originally Posted by prospect View Post
The value between pin 3 and 5 is aprox 1.9 Mohm.
That's good news - firstly it means the TDA2030 is not shorted, and secondly, it also means nothing else is shorting across the power supply, either.

I'm with Voltwide and Enzo. If there is no evidence of overheating, just try re-soldering the regulator onto the PCB. It may not be damaged. (You will need to replace the fuses with good ones too.)

I just realized I'm assuming - do you have a soldering iron? Do you have any previous experience soldering on printed circuit boards? Those thin copper traces are quite delicate, especially when they are heated up for soldering, and can be damaged by rough handling. This is another reason to just try re-flowing those two solder joints, rather than trying to remove the regulator completely - it is easy to damage the PCB by using the wrong techniques when removing a part.

-Gnobuddy
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