Hey guys,
I'm planning on cloning Twin Reverb or something similar as a head, not combo, just wondering if anyone could give me rough dimensions of the timber outer chassis and the inner metal sub chassis. I'll probably get an Alu chassis from digikey.
Also, in models with the controls on the front (as opposed to on top), how is the metal chassis attached to the timber outer shell? It seems like if you have the chassis oriented so that one long side is at the front with the controls, and the other is at the back with power IEC connector etc, you can't then screw from inside the box into the timber.
This guy seems to use a timber clamp type of arrangement to press the chassis to the inside of the top. Anyone tell me how fender did it?
http://www.jeangodbout.com/princeton/cabinet7.jpg
Cheers
I'm planning on cloning Twin Reverb or something similar as a head, not combo, just wondering if anyone could give me rough dimensions of the timber outer chassis and the inner metal sub chassis. I'll probably get an Alu chassis from digikey.
Also, in models with the controls on the front (as opposed to on top), how is the metal chassis attached to the timber outer shell? It seems like if you have the chassis oriented so that one long side is at the front with the controls, and the other is at the back with power IEC connector etc, you can't then screw from inside the box into the timber.
This guy seems to use a timber clamp type of arrangement to press the chassis to the inside of the top. Anyone tell me how fender did it?
http://www.jeangodbout.com/princeton/cabinet7.jpg
Cheers
Do you know about these guys? CeriaTone.Com - DIY Guitar Tube Amp
You could buy just a chassis from them and save yourself a lot of work.
You could buy just a chassis from them and save yourself a lot of work.
OK - just offering the suggestion that Alu boxes at Digikey migh not be strong enough. Of course it depends of a number of things. For the current amp I'm using P-H1441-26 from Antique Electronic Supply but I digress. Good luck.
Either side of the top of a Twin Reverb there's a thin metal strip. Each end of that has a countersunk hole in it. The strips act as long washers for bolts that go right down through holes in the chassis into nuts you put on the end of your finger to get onto the bolts. Sounds awful, but it's ok actually.
There are wooden strips screwed to the sides of the cab to slide the chassis in on til you get the bolts in. Pretty low tech, but works well.
Even if you don;t care to buy from them, some of the sites that sell kits may have included information you can use.
Weber Speakers - Making the world a bit louder each day.
Mojotone.com - The Best source for Vintage Amp Parts, Cabinets, Guitar Parts, Bass Parts, and Pickup Parts
From Mojo, a Twin Reverb chassis as an example:
Mojo Chassis Blackface Twin Reverb Style Chassis
Blackface Twin Reverb® Style Cabinet - Mojotone.com
Blackface Twin Reverb® Style Head Cabinet - Mojotone.com
(dimensions are included under details in each case.)
Aluminum is fine for light stuff, but the transformners are pretty substantial on a Twin reverb, and I'd think steel the better choice.
If you are planning to build one of these things, and especially from scratch, but you don;t know basics like how the chassis is mounted, may I suggest getting your hands on a Fender amp or two just to inspect how they are put together.
Is there a professional amp repair shop convenient to you? You might ask the tech if he'd show you the basic interior of a Fender amp. Offer to pay him for his time.
Typical details to consider: Power transformer mounted float in a chassis hole, output transformer mounted on top of chassis vertically. Tube sockets and controls mounted directly on chassis, but most small components on eyelet board with flying leads to the above. Note how that is mounted. Note socket wiring, in particular the heater leads in twisted pair.
Weber Speakers - Making the world a bit louder each day.
Mojotone.com - The Best source for Vintage Amp Parts, Cabinets, Guitar Parts, Bass Parts, and Pickup Parts
From Mojo, a Twin Reverb chassis as an example:
Mojo Chassis Blackface Twin Reverb Style Chassis
Blackface Twin Reverb® Style Cabinet - Mojotone.com
Blackface Twin Reverb® Style Head Cabinet - Mojotone.com
(dimensions are included under details in each case.)
Aluminum is fine for light stuff, but the transformners are pretty substantial on a Twin reverb, and I'd think steel the better choice.
If you are planning to build one of these things, and especially from scratch, but you don;t know basics like how the chassis is mounted, may I suggest getting your hands on a Fender amp or two just to inspect how they are put together.
Is there a professional amp repair shop convenient to you? You might ask the tech if he'd show you the basic interior of a Fender amp. Offer to pay him for his time.
Typical details to consider: Power transformer mounted float in a chassis hole, output transformer mounted on top of chassis vertically. Tube sockets and controls mounted directly on chassis, but most small components on eyelet board with flying leads to the above. Note how that is mounted. Note socket wiring, in particular the heater leads in twisted pair.
Thanks for the info guys.
The only Fender amp I have access to on a regular basis is a hotrod deluxe with top mounted controls, which isn't all that much help. I could head to a guitar store and check out a '65 reissue, but I'd probably get some weird looks turning up with a tape measure...
I don't necessarily want to make an exact copy, just to make the exterior similar in dimensions.
I'm also starting to think about basing the amp on one of the models with only one pair of 6L6s to keep cost/weight down; I probably don't really need the full 100W, although it would be nice to have and the trafo's aren't much more expensive.
Steel would probably be a better choice given the weight of the transformers, aluminium is just easier on drill bits etc. In the past I've actually drilled tube holes in alu with timber spade bits on a drill press which I doubt I'd get away with in steel.
The only Fender amp I have access to on a regular basis is a hotrod deluxe with top mounted controls, which isn't all that much help. I could head to a guitar store and check out a '65 reissue, but I'd probably get some weird looks turning up with a tape measure...
I don't necessarily want to make an exact copy, just to make the exterior similar in dimensions.
I'm also starting to think about basing the amp on one of the models with only one pair of 6L6s to keep cost/weight down; I probably don't really need the full 100W, although it would be nice to have and the trafo's aren't much more expensive.
Steel would probably be a better choice given the weight of the transformers, aluminium is just easier on drill bits etc. In the past I've actually drilled tube holes in alu with timber spade bits on a drill press which I doubt I'd get away with in steel.
You need not see the exact same model you want to build just to see how they are assembled and chassis mounted.
Those suppliers I linked to provide dimensions on the chassis they sell. And their cabinets as well. Open the link and check out under details.
If 100 watts is more than you want, no point in convincing yourself otherwise. A 50 watt amp is only 3db less loud, all else equal. SO it isn;t like the 100 watt is that much extra capability.
The beauty of Fender is there is a classic model at just about every level of performance. For a single pair of 6L6 amp, consider the Fender Pro, or if you want the features, then a Pro Reverb.
Those suppliers I linked to provide dimensions on the chassis they sell. And their cabinets as well. Open the link and check out under details.
If 100 watts is more than you want, no point in convincing yourself otherwise. A 50 watt amp is only 3db less loud, all else equal. SO it isn;t like the 100 watt is that much extra capability.
The beauty of Fender is there is a classic model at just about every level of performance. For a single pair of 6L6 amp, consider the Fender Pro, or if you want the features, then a Pro Reverb.
Exactly, thanks, I'll check those links out.
Again, I agree; I'd be using the amp both at home and in a band situation where the other guitarist's 40w fender is more than loud enough. The four 6L6's would look very cool and the cost isn't much greater to go for one of the ~100w fenders compared to the ~50watt models. Its tempting, I haven't quite decided which way to go yet... If I do decide to go with the smaller build I'm looking at the super reverb circuits, which I hear have a similarly nice clean to the twin reverbs.
Generally I use pedals for distortion, and either way I'm not going to be able to play loud enough to get OP tube drive at home
, even the champ clone I use currently at home pisses my family off when cranked hard enough for OP drive. Sounds good though.- Status
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