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Another question why do some guys like to wire a 4x12 cab "out of phase" so the speakers are sucking in etc when I got my carvin 4x12 it was wired like that leads were crossed and I always thought it sounded really weird lol so I would swap back in forth sometimes lol whats the point though? I think it sounds better in phase more bass/depth other way its like having a blanket on a cab but the mids had a different character so I don't know just for a different sound?
 
Another question why do some guys like to wire a 4x12 cab "out of phase" so the speakers are sucking in etc when I got my carvin 4x12 it was wired like that leads were crossed and I always thought it sounded really weird lol so I would swap back in forth sometimes lol whats the point though? I think it sounds better in phase more bass/depth other way its like having a blanket on a cab but the mids had a different character so I don't know just for a different sound?

Different sound.

At a distance, it'd sound like a big stereo source.

For more bass, put a capacitor in series with one side. That'll stop them cancelling so much. I'll draw up a circuit diagram if you like.
 
Yeah I liked both but I just didn't like how when out of phase it was noticeable bass decrease and excessive highs but there was a different mid range character not sure if it was bad or good just different kinda hard to describe

in phase the mids were more snappy out of phase it was more like smeared/smudged mids if that makes any sense lol

Sylvania 6v6 - YouTube

Lynch infused with VH and infused with something else that I don't know lol yeah I'm pretty crazy haha

the cab is in phase in that video though lol

just hoping these screens are not gonna blow up anytime soon lol

I had the Dimebucker in my Ibanez JS1000 too lol sure satch would love that rofl, I still got the fred though Ill keep it I like it clean has nice twang hell might put it in neck but really think I need a super D, or tonezone, dimebucker is just hot as hell but ceramic magnets just don't have the warmth I like and it is bit trebly/spikey lol but it does have that searing/molten hell tone under gain lol
 
It is almost like I gave up amp building, pretty much did while learning how to make this thing. Far from perfect but good enough for a first try.

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Well because it was an experiment I did not go all out on it. I glued together some 1" x 2" poplar pieces to make the neck as I did not want to waste any better wood. The body was made out of six pieces of pine and the weather was changing so I glued them all up at the same time and I ended up with a glue line on the back. The neck feels great and I did a real good job on getting it smooth and straight, then screwed up the fret job by using wire that was 0.002" wider than the slot the fret saw cut. I never knew fret wire came in different sizes. Installing them distorted the metal and I had to sand the frets down quite a bit to get them level. I was worried the string tension on the top and left the bracing a little heavier than needed. The finish is not factory perfect.

That being said unless you are really looking hard you would not notice the flaws. The bridge still needs to be experimented with and down the line I might even make one with a piezo in it and was thinking of a floating magnetic pickup at the neck. I have electric strings on it now and it does sound bright, not that there would be thunderous bass from a guitar with this thin a body. It is three inches thick, the reason I did this design is the smaller volume required a smaller sound hole and I thought a small hole in the traditional location would look bad. I want to try it with acoustic strings yet. It sounds fairly guitar like up to the 12th fret but above it does not ring out as much as it should, it seems to get dampened down quicker than it should. Also there is a bit of sympathetic ringing from the other strings that are not being played. I think a regular bridge may have worked better, maybe for the next one.

Oh yeah, maple fretboard, pine body that was routered out, pine top, red oak veneer on the headstock. A few other pictures.

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NICE JOB!

Nice attention to wood finishing detail. Nice smooth fretting...mine is not that good (luckily I made my fretboard removable). I see you made the saddle out of what looks like fret wire. Interesting. I wouldn't expect it would have deep tone at just three inches deep, but it probably has good character. Your wood working skills are right up there I would say. Great pics! Thanks for sharing.
 
NOT MINE

Hey, Angelo
the Telecaster you refer to is not mine. My instrument is an acoustic prototype. I'm sending a pic so you can see its not the tele (which, is nicely done, and probably just varnished with a clear coat of some kind).
 

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Maybe the smallest VOX tube guitar amp...

Maybe the smallest VOX "vintage" tube guitar amp ever made ?

My VOX AC3 Top Boost, built from the cab and chassis of an electronically dead Solid-State VOX Escort from the late 60's/early 70's.

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A+!
 
Here is my Tele, it was a standard black body,but really heavy, so I made an ultra light swamp-ash body for it, which I contoured. after staining it down to match the neck colour, the wood looked so good I didn't want to cover it all up with the bog standard big pickguard, so I designed this minimal one for it, which sort of worked a bit like an afterthought, stuck on top and not an intragal part, so I sawed out a brass Fender "F" had it chromed and screwed that on, as a feature, and now I'm relatively happy with it. The light wood makes the guitar so much more comfortable to wear, and improved the sound no end. Better sustain, far more complexity of overtone colour, and the separation of notes when you play a chord lets you hear every tone out individually, like my Martin D45.. This Tele is now 5,2kg , it was 7,4 kg. I have since built another guitar that's only 2,9 kilo.
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