Kaw-liga's Standel Clone
Hi there again,
Nice cabinet you put your amp in! Where did you get it made, or did you do it yourself? Are you going to make a plexi logo badge for it?
How's the sound? Looks great - can you send me pics of the amp internals? I'm always interested in how others do their wire management.
How old's that D130 you put in there? Looks crisp and clean!
Thank you,
Frank
Hi there again,
Nice cabinet you put your amp in! Where did you get it made, or did you do it yourself? Are you going to make a plexi logo badge for it?
How's the sound? Looks great - can you send me pics of the amp internals? I'm always interested in how others do their wire management.
How old's that D130 you put in there? Looks crisp and clean!
Thank you,
Frank
Hey there, thanks alot, i made the cabinet myself all fingerjointed pine. I got a sign shop to make me my instrument panel and front logo. sound is great, for guitar i mostly use it with my hallmark deke dickerson model, gets a good joe maphis and merle travis sound. Found for steel it really gets a early steel guitar tone, like old western swing records. im not too sure how to find the age of the d130, bought it used, had to have it the condition is great. ill send ya some pics mabye tommorow. but for wiring i just usually give me some room for future changes, keep everything away from ac lines, tightly twisted heaters ran high away from everything, and my attempt at star grounding. plus lots of cotton covered wire, just because i like how it looks.
Standel 25L15 Cabinet needed
This is a general call for help, but only a few of you I think can help me.
Many of you know me or heard of me. I build amps by hand, and fix them on the side. I've offered many many hours of advice and help and troubleshooting to many of you and more.
I work out of my home, but because of life circumstances, I am not able to make cabinets. I built a Standel 25L15 amp but I cannot find anyone who makes the cabinets available for sale.
Ted Weber planned on making them available with his JP25 kit, but since his untimely and very unfortunate demise, they have discontinued them permanently according to Chris there.
If anyone sees this post, and can make me a cabinet, I would gladly pay for it; I'm sure we can come to a more than ample price. It would be nice if the cabinet could look like a Standel cabinet.
Thank you,
Frank
This is a general call for help, but only a few of you I think can help me.
Many of you know me or heard of me. I build amps by hand, and fix them on the side. I've offered many many hours of advice and help and troubleshooting to many of you and more.
I work out of my home, but because of life circumstances, I am not able to make cabinets. I built a Standel 25L15 amp but I cannot find anyone who makes the cabinets available for sale.
Ted Weber planned on making them available with his JP25 kit, but since his untimely and very unfortunate demise, they have discontinued them permanently according to Chris there.
If anyone sees this post, and can make me a cabinet, I would gladly pay for it; I'm sure we can come to a more than ample price. It would be nice if the cabinet could look like a Standel cabinet.
Thank you,
Frank
Edcor Power Trannies
Hi there ElseIf (nice uiserId, I remember my coding days very well),
Nice choices for sure, but I keep wondering, what tubes are you going to use? If you are planning on using 807's, I think you may need more than 370v per side, no? I think they run around 450v, depending on bias.
On the other hand, if you know that your source voltage is sufficient at 720v, for sure take the XPWR002. The extra current handling on it makes it a much more superior choice, for only an extra 9 dollars.
Better more than not enough is my golder rule. This way if you run them lower, they will run cooler, and likely last longer as a result.
What output transformer have you selected? Are you running 8 or 16 Ohms?
Got any pics to share with us? We'd love to see your work!
All the best, take care,
Frank
Hi there ElseIf (nice uiserId, I remember my coding days very well),
Nice choices for sure, but I keep wondering, what tubes are you going to use? If you are planning on using 807's, I think you may need more than 370v per side, no? I think they run around 450v, depending on bias.
On the other hand, if you know that your source voltage is sufficient at 720v, for sure take the XPWR002. The extra current handling on it makes it a much more superior choice, for only an extra 9 dollars.
Better more than not enough is my golder rule. This way if you run them lower, they will run cooler, and likely last longer as a result.
What output transformer have you selected? Are you running 8 or 16 Ohms?
Got any pics to share with us? We'd love to see your work!
All the best, take care,
Frank
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807s, yes. I was thinking with 360vrms and a 5U4 I should get somewhere around 450V at idle, capacitive input (?)
Probably an Edcor CXPP class, 45-50W, 6.6k or 7.6k.
I'm not sure you would. My stuff to date has been conversion of older gear, organ amps, old hi-fi. I will share these of an AO-35 conversion I did for my nephew. Still a bit in progress obviously: pic1, pic2, pic3
Trannies and Old Hi-Fi
Hi there again!!
Well, I'm not sure on capacitive input... I mean, there's gotta be something more here to get 450v, like a couple of resistors and don't forget a couple of chokes. Edcor has many choices on there.., and they make nice stuff. I'd go with the 6.6K. Do Pearless still make any OTs?
I wonder how well a 4/8/16 OT would work...can I directly swap that you think?
The rectifier has to be 5U4 because that's usually what Bob Crooks used but there are better options. For the sake of THE TONE I'd stick with the 5U4.
OH!! There is absolutely NO SHAME in posting OLD stuff here, I can tell you that. As well, most of us started tinkering with old so-called junk, and collecting them year after year. Lo and behold, those old Telefunken tubes (often more than 10 per radio) that you'd find in old console radios at yard sales (avr 30 bucks but most people will Pay YOU to take it away!) are now fetching $200 + on ebay.... go figure.
I LOVE to see old stuff like this, even if hand made 'super-custom'. Old Heathkits, even repaired ones, anything else really. I adore LEAK amps ... those sweet 2-chassis amps with power on one chassis and the rest on the other...just like a 25L15.
I invite anyone to post pics of their old gear, 'specially if it looks like the late 40s to early 50's era 'cause those are my favs!
Cheers!
Frank
Hi there again!!
Well, I'm not sure on capacitive input... I mean, there's gotta be something more here to get 450v, like a couple of resistors and don't forget a couple of chokes. Edcor has many choices on there.., and they make nice stuff. I'd go with the 6.6K. Do Pearless still make any OTs?
I wonder how well a 4/8/16 OT would work...can I directly swap that you think?
The rectifier has to be 5U4 because that's usually what Bob Crooks used but there are better options. For the sake of THE TONE I'd stick with the 5U4.
OH!! There is absolutely NO SHAME in posting OLD stuff here, I can tell you that. As well, most of us started tinkering with old so-called junk, and collecting them year after year. Lo and behold, those old Telefunken tubes (often more than 10 per radio) that you'd find in old console radios at yard sales (avr 30 bucks but most people will Pay YOU to take it away!) are now fetching $200 + on ebay.... go figure.
I LOVE to see old stuff like this, even if hand made 'super-custom'. Old Heathkits, even repaired ones, anything else really. I adore LEAK amps ... those sweet 2-chassis amps with power on one chassis and the rest on the other...just like a 25L15.
I invite anyone to post pics of their old gear, 'specially if it looks like the late 40s to early 50's era 'cause those are my favs!
Cheers!
Frank
Hi TeleTech,
Did you get a cab for your amp sorted? I can't offer to help you out as I'm UK based and my woodworking skills leave a little to be desired.
I wondered what chassis you used for your 25L15 build, one of Webers? I was thinking about attempting a build using maybe their 5E5A pro chassis, but am doubtful of my skills at laying out a parts board, or maybe one of Webers would be suitable?
Thanks
Did you get a cab for your amp sorted? I can't offer to help you out as I'm UK based and my woodworking skills leave a little to be desired.
I wondered what chassis you used for your 25L15 build, one of Webers? I was thinking about attempting a build using maybe their 5E5A pro chassis, but am doubtful of my skills at laying out a parts board, or maybe one of Webers would be suitable?
Thanks
Standel 25l15 build - detailed photos of everything coming in the future!!!!
Hi Bananafist,
and welcome to this thread!
I have not sourced out a cabinet for my Standel 25L15 yet, nor do I have the 2 metal chassis yet either.
However, I did manage to acquire very detailed photos of the inside and outside of Standel's reissue 25L15. They use their own transformers so there is nothing except STANDEL stamped on them.
As well, despite having many schematics at hand, I cannot se the value of the main power capacitor, but they are black with red writing JJ brand - does anyone out there know the exact values on this cap from their Standel reissue that they could share with us please?
I am now looking a lot at Laser cutting and etching service - Specializes in customized products, including control panels, nameplates, and logo tags - Precision Design - welcome for my logo and chassis graphics - take a look guys they do some nice work!!!
Anyone out there have photos of their Standels they can share? When I build my next 25L15 I will post VERY detailed photos OF EVERY NOOK AND CRANNY.
Cheers!
Hi Bananafist,
and welcome to this thread!
I have not sourced out a cabinet for my Standel 25L15 yet, nor do I have the 2 metal chassis yet either.
However, I did manage to acquire very detailed photos of the inside and outside of Standel's reissue 25L15. They use their own transformers so there is nothing except STANDEL stamped on them.
As well, despite having many schematics at hand, I cannot se the value of the main power capacitor, but they are black with red writing JJ brand - does anyone out there know the exact values on this cap from their Standel reissue that they could share with us please?
I am now looking a lot at Laser cutting and etching service - Specializes in customized products, including control panels, nameplates, and logo tags - Precision Design - welcome for my logo and chassis graphics - take a look guys they do some nice work!!!
Anyone out there have photos of their Standels they can share? When I build my next 25L15 I will post VERY detailed photos OF EVERY NOOK AND CRANNY.
Cheers!
Hi TeleTech,
Did you get a cab for your amp sorted? I can't offer to help you out as I'm UK based and my woodworking skills leave a little to be desired.
I wondered what chassis you used for your 25L15 build, one of Webers? I was thinking about attempting a build using maybe their 5E5A pro chassis, but am doubtful of my skills at laying out a parts board, or maybe one of Webers would be suitable?
Thanks
TeleTech, in researching this build I'm starting to consider some other options. I think my build will be probably be more in-the-style of rather than a clone.
As of now the speaker is to be JBL D130F basket re-coned with an E-130 kit. I've been told that makes it more of a K-130. Either way it has the advertised 6 kHz cutoff of the original D130.
That 15" is going to be beamy. I will probably experiment with a Jay Mitchell donut to reduce this effect. The amp will have to be brightened slightly above 1 khz to compensate. Maybe the treb control will be adequate for this. I don't know. The donut is an easy mod to remove if it has too much affect on the highs.
I know the 807 is the standard but I am considering other 6L6-ish types, like KT66.
Twenty-five clean Watts.
I intend to provide a switchable screen configuration between UL and pentode.
It will be dual channel, clean and OD with verb. These features were requested.
The transformers will be large per the 25L15 model.
I am still planning the split chassis plan (power/pre). I did find a picture showing the two 807s extending from the lower chassis horizontally in the right half and the rectifier and filter in the left half. No information currently on where the PI is located.
As of now the speaker is to be JBL D130F basket re-coned with an E-130 kit. I've been told that makes it more of a K-130. Either way it has the advertised 6 kHz cutoff of the original D130.
That 15" is going to be beamy. I will probably experiment with a Jay Mitchell donut to reduce this effect. The amp will have to be brightened slightly above 1 khz to compensate. Maybe the treb control will be adequate for this. I don't know. The donut is an easy mod to remove if it has too much affect on the highs.
I know the 807 is the standard but I am considering other 6L6-ish types, like KT66.
Twenty-five clean Watts.
I intend to provide a switchable screen configuration between UL and pentode.
It will be dual channel, clean and OD with verb. These features were requested.
The transformers will be large per the 25L15 model.
I am still planning the split chassis plan (power/pre). I did find a picture showing the two 807s extending from the lower chassis horizontally in the right half and the rectifier and filter in the left half. No information currently on where the PI is located.
Standel clone
Hi there again,
Well, I would always build in the original style, but let me tell you that the wiring is cleaned in the reissues. That being said, the reissues also cmoe with different power supply main caps, and the 1/4" jacks are PLASTIC!
I've heard great things from people using recones D130's to acquire an 8ohm ... or using even a 12inch speaker. But 16ohms 15inches was the original. Look for the JBLs that have a serial number sticker on one of the basket's arms - those are the old ones... something like 407169 like on Don Snow's old emerald green 25L15 that Deke Dickerson bought (Danny at Standel says THAT is the best sounding 25L15 he's ever heard... and is now copying that amp for his reissues.....).
If the highs are too much for you or too harsh, you can just turn down the treble. I wouldn't go cover the amp with anything, but an open guitar case in front of it can help a bit if you are in a small space.
** I don't think you'll need to 'brighten' the amp 'above 1Khz' because both 0.047 and 0.02 tone caps will cover that range tremendously. The reissues are coming with 0.047s in the preamp but the original schematics I have indicate 0.02... REALLY bright. A friend of mine has experimented with changing this and the 0.02 sounds much better; it would definitely benefit the JBL.....
Oh, and I know KT66s are great and all... but GO WITH 807s!!! ONLY THEN will you get that CLEAN PIANO-NOTE SILVER BELL TONE. More power does not compensate for the lack of tone you'll get using anything else....
PS I would love to see the photos of the reverb installed in your Standel. I do not have the schematic for this add-on as it is only available in the reissues. PM me if you do not want to post them publicly. It would be great to see your wiring as well as the components you've selected for your build.
Cheers!
Frank
Hi there again,
Well, I would always build in the original style, but let me tell you that the wiring is cleaned in the reissues. That being said, the reissues also cmoe with different power supply main caps, and the 1/4" jacks are PLASTIC!
I've heard great things from people using recones D130's to acquire an 8ohm ... or using even a 12inch speaker. But 16ohms 15inches was the original. Look for the JBLs that have a serial number sticker on one of the basket's arms - those are the old ones... something like 407169 like on Don Snow's old emerald green 25L15 that Deke Dickerson bought (Danny at Standel says THAT is the best sounding 25L15 he's ever heard... and is now copying that amp for his reissues.....).
If the highs are too much for you or too harsh, you can just turn down the treble. I wouldn't go cover the amp with anything, but an open guitar case in front of it can help a bit if you are in a small space.
** I don't think you'll need to 'brighten' the amp 'above 1Khz' because both 0.047 and 0.02 tone caps will cover that range tremendously. The reissues are coming with 0.047s in the preamp but the original schematics I have indicate 0.02... REALLY bright. A friend of mine has experimented with changing this and the 0.02 sounds much better; it would definitely benefit the JBL.....
Oh, and I know KT66s are great and all... but GO WITH 807s!!! ONLY THEN will you get that CLEAN PIANO-NOTE SILVER BELL TONE. More power does not compensate for the lack of tone you'll get using anything else....
PS I would love to see the photos of the reverb installed in your Standel. I do not have the schematic for this add-on as it is only available in the reissues. PM me if you do not want to post them publicly. It would be great to see your wiring as well as the components you've selected for your build.
Cheers!
Frank
Chassis needed - standel 25l15
Hello all!!
Does anyone have a good source for chassis material?
How about the plans to the 2 chassis for a Standel 25L15? Pre-amp and power amp with 807s not EL34s...
I'd like to find someone who can make these properly as I do not have the machinery available at my disposal.
I have very detailed photos of Standel 25L15 amplifiers if needed for measurements etc.
Thank you,
Frank
Hello all!!
Does anyone have a good source for chassis material?
How about the plans to the 2 chassis for a Standel 25L15? Pre-amp and power amp with 807s not EL34s...
I'd like to find someone who can make these properly as I do not have the machinery available at my disposal.
I have very detailed photos of Standel 25L15 amplifiers if needed for measurements etc.
Thank you,
Frank
Checking the revised version, it appears that it uses a WZ34 which is Weber's solid state version of a version of a GZ34/5AR4. According to the schematic it doesn't use the 5V winding. Is this normal for these? Why would one of these be used instead of a conventional solid-state rectifier?
Solid State Rectifier from Weber
Hi again ElseIf!
Weber Copper Cap Rectifiers are solid state rectifier replacement devices for use in place of vintage tube rectifiers. Each model emulates the forward conduction resistance curve of the tube type it replaces.
Yes, the Weber Rectifier does not use the 5V filament on the transformer. If this was a replacement for a 5U4, for instance, this is a savings of 15 watts. The power transformer will run cooler and last longer. While the filament and coating on the cathode of a tube rectifier will eventually fail, a Copper Cap is said to last the lifetime of the amp.
They also have linear in-rush current limiting to simulate the warm-up of a tube rectifier, but it takes only 1 to 2 seconds, instead of the 7 to 9 seconds of a typical rectifier tube. The envelopes are solid hard-drawn copper with a high thermal capacitance that allows a 100% continuous overload condition.
Solid state recitification has its advantages, such as allowing for a higher plate voltage tolerance, and such. I would not use them myself, and people may call me a purist for this. But if I want vintage tone, I'm not letting my signal, nor the voltages that drive it, go through anything solid state.
Hope this helps!
Frank Roy
Hi again ElseIf!
Weber Copper Cap Rectifiers are solid state rectifier replacement devices for use in place of vintage tube rectifiers. Each model emulates the forward conduction resistance curve of the tube type it replaces.
Yes, the Weber Rectifier does not use the 5V filament on the transformer. If this was a replacement for a 5U4, for instance, this is a savings of 15 watts. The power transformer will run cooler and last longer. While the filament and coating on the cathode of a tube rectifier will eventually fail, a Copper Cap is said to last the lifetime of the amp.
They also have linear in-rush current limiting to simulate the warm-up of a tube rectifier, but it takes only 1 to 2 seconds, instead of the 7 to 9 seconds of a typical rectifier tube. The envelopes are solid hard-drawn copper with a high thermal capacitance that allows a 100% continuous overload condition.
Solid state recitification has its advantages, such as allowing for a higher plate voltage tolerance, and such. I would not use them myself, and people may call me a purist for this. But if I want vintage tone, I'm not letting my signal, nor the voltages that drive it, go through anything solid state.
Hope this helps!
Frank Roy
1956 standel prototype on ebay - by deke dickerson!!!!
Hey everyone,
The double-neck guitar king Deke Dickerson is selling his PROTOTYPE 1956 Standel!!! It's got a 25L15 preamp and a 50L15 power amp... it was a 50L15 prototype built using 25L15 parts by Bob Crooks himself, check it!!!! :
Original 1956 STANDEL 25L15 tube guitar amplifier! - eBay (item 310186430650 end time Dec-13-09 20:13:38 PST)
Hey everyone,
The double-neck guitar king Deke Dickerson is selling his PROTOTYPE 1956 Standel!!! It's got a 25L15 preamp and a 50L15 power amp... it was a 50L15 prototype built using 25L15 parts by Bob Crooks himself, check it!!!! :
Original 1956 STANDEL 25L15 tube guitar amplifier! - eBay (item 310186430650 end time Dec-13-09 20:13:38 PST)
1956 standel prototype photos!!!!!
the rest of 'em!
OHH!!! And here's the description:
-----------------------------------------------
Original 1956 STANDEL 25L15 tube guitar amplifier!
What you are bidding on is an original 1956 Standel all-tube guitar amplifier. This is a model 25L15 with an interesting story to tell. Get comfortable in your chair and I'll tell you all about this amp. Suffice it to say that these early tube Standel amplifiers are some of the rarest, best sounding and most desirable guitar amplifiers on the planet. You don't get an opportunity to bid on one of these very often, so give yourself a great Christmas present this year, an insanely rare 1956 tube Standel!
Those familiar with the Standel amp history know that the first Standel amplifier was called the 25L15 (which stood for 25 watts, Lansing speaker, 15 inch). Beginning in 1953, these were handmade amps built on a custom basis for famous musicians and people who wanted the very best. Famous guitarists and steel guitarists like Speedy West, Joe Maphis, Merle Travis, Chet Atkins, Buddy Emmons, Hank Thompson, Ernie Ball and many more all had one of these early 25L15 custom built amps. These first 66 amplifiers were registered on a crudely handwritten "butcher paper" list, where Standel founder Bob Crooks noted who bought each amplifier. Today out of the 66 original 25L15's made, only 18 of them known to exist.
Here's a link to the original "butcher paper" list:
Standel Musical Instrument Amplifiers then click on "history" then "butcher paper list."
These Standels were the original "boutique" amplifier, made in super limited quantities on a custom basis, and were very expensive at the time, about twice the cost of a Fender. Although Standel never sold as many amplifiers as Fender, Bob Crooks' innovations, such as separate volume and tone controls, front-mounted control panel, the light-up control panel, the use of JBL speakers, the "piggyback" amp and closed back cabinets were all ideas that Standel implemented several years before Fender essentially borrowed these ideas for their own. Today, reproduction 25L15 Standel amps are being made again, on a boutique basis, by the man who currently owns the Standel name, Danny McKinney of Requisite Audio.
This amp is an unusual amp. basically this is the 1956 "shop prototype" for the 2nd series of Standel amps, the 50L15. This amp has an original early 25L15 cabinet, and an early 25L15 preamplifier, but it has a power amplifier that was the shop prototype for the next series of amplifiers, which became the 50L15. If you're following me here, it's essentially a 25L15 but with a different (50L15 type) power amplifier in the bottom. The power amp in the bottom has evidence of a variety of configurations, lots of extra holes and evidence of experimental wiring circuits, but today is equipped with 6DQ6A tubes, which were the power tube complement that Standel would use from 1956 until they quit using tubes altogether around 1963-1964.
This amp also was originally fitted with a 12-inch speaker baffle and a 12-inch speaker. I have the original 12-inch baffle, which comes included with this auction. But I wanted a 15-inch JBL in the amp so I made a replica baffle for the amp to mount a JBL D130 speaker. I carefully removed the nails holding the Standel plexiglass nameplate and put the nameplate on the 15-inch baffle. So--everything it came with is still there and included in the auction, but the baffle that is on the amp right now is a replica that I made to fit a 15" speaker.
Here is a link to the history of Standel amps:
Standel Musical Instrument Amplifiers /about_us/story/index.html
I am the person responsible for writing this "History of Standel Amps" on the Standel website, but I owe a lot of my information to the man who turned me on to these amps in the first place, a record producer named Mark Neill. Mark was the guy who really began the interest in early tube Standels, back in the early 1980's. Mark was (and is) a Merle Travis and Joe Maphis fan and began searching out these amps, and information about them, before anyone else. His knowledge helped me develop an interest in these amps, and spurred me on to further research about them. I bought this amp from Mark in the early 90's. Mark himself found it at a drum shop in San Diego ten years earlier. Both Mark and myself would take this amplifier to Bob Crooks to see what he remembered about it. Before Bob Crooks died, he was working at Barcus Berry in Huntington Beach and was very accessible. You could bring in an amp or a photo and he would tell you what he remembered about it. Bob indicated that this amp was the shop prototype between the 1st series of amps and the 2nd series of amps. He also pointed to the two oddly placed furniture tacks on the top of the amp (see photo), which Bob said indicated that this was shop prototype #2.
As a prototype, this amp was never "finished" out with many of the typical Standel appointments. There is no "flocking" sprayed on the inside of the amp cabinet. There is no light-up Standel control panel, instead just a couple of radio dials for Volume, bass, and treble, and chicken-head black knobs. Bob Crooks also seemed to remember this amp had no nameplate on it originally, but the one that is on there now is an original Standel nameplate from the 1957-1959 era. The evidence that it was put on after the fact lies in the fact that it is affixed to the right side of the speaker, whereas the Standel nameplate was traditionally mounted on the left side of the speaker. There are a few other features that make this amp more primitive than a production model 25L15, but it is what it is, an actual shop prototype amplifier used to come up with the power amplifier circuit for the 2nd series of amplifiers.
Mark Neill also showed the amplifier to legendary guitarist Joe Maphis at a San Diego concert in the 1980's. Joe Maphis remembered the amplifier well. Joe recalled this amp was brought to the "Town Hall Party" show on many occasions while Bob was testing out designs. Joe said he played through it, and Rose Lee also played through it. There is no proof of this, of course, except for Joe's verbal recollection to Mark Neill.
The most obvious candidate for who took this amplifier to San Diego would be Tommy Turman, who was and still IS a monster western swing guitar player in the San Diego/El Cajon area. Tommy is listed on the original "butcher paper" list as the original owner of #1045, which is listed as "demonstrator." One might jump to the conclusion that this is amplifier #1045, but the evidence doesn't support it. More than likely Tommy was given this prototype amp to try out and see how he liked the new circuit design, and it just stayed in San Diego until Mark Neill found it in the early 80's at a drum shop down there. I've asked Tommy, and he did not remember it specifically, but he did remember having a lot to do with the early Standel company and the field-testing of their amps. (Tommy also worked with Paul Bigsby on an early floor-pedal version of the "B-bender" around 1957, he is the real deal and a great guy!)
There is a pencil marked "1096" on the inside of the cabinet (see photo). This number would fall in line with the Standel numbering system, with the butcher paper going up to serial #1066, but it would seem to me that this amp should actually be earlier than that, and if there were thirty more 25L15's built between the last one on the butcher paper list, and this amp, I'd be surprised. So I will say that this number PROBABLY doesn't mean anything. Bob Crooks had absolutely no memory of the number or why he would have even numbered a shop prototype amp.
The condition of the amp is very good for a naugahyde-covered 53-year old amplifier. There are a couple of minor tears in the naugahyde, one of which has been repaired with thread and hot wax (see photos). The metal floor bumpers show lots of scuffs and dings from use. The amp had casters on it at one time and there are holes where the casters were removed and replaced with original type "bumper" feet. The original handle was broken and replaced (these amps are very heavy and none of them have the original leather handle--they all broke at some point lugging these things around). Overall, however, the condition is quite good, and most of these amps have the original naugahyde torn to pieces, or they have been recovered. This one has the original naugahyde (and original speaker grillcloth on the 12-inch original baffle). The speaker that is in the amplifier now is an original "signature" model Jim Lansing (JBL) D130. However, I do not think that this speaker sounds very good and I am including a SECOND JBL D130 (one from the late 50's/early 60's--worth $250 on its own!) with the amplifier. So, you will have one speaker that is period correct to the amp, and one that you can actually play! Both speakers will come in seperate boxes. I will add another picture to the auction once I pick out a good D130 to include with this amp.
This amp has been completely electronically gone through. it has been recapped, resistors replaced, etc. I always wanted to actually PLAY this amplifier and I still find the guys who collect amplifiers with original internal components that have gone bad to be slightly insane. Very high quality components were used.
Some astute observers will notice that the cabinet design is slightly different than the earlier Standels. The cabinet edges are more rounded, where the early ones are squared off. The aluminum trim is a plain metal band instead of the slightly fancier and wider metal bands used on the first amps. The answer for that is simple, Bob Crooks changed his amps and the features on them as he went along. I wondered about this myself until I was able to see amplifiers #1051 and #1060, as well as another amp that appeared to a slightly later production model amp like this one, with the 25L15 cabinet and preamp, but the 2nd series 6DQ6-equipped power amp, and these amplifiers have identical cabinet construction.
PLEASE NOTE: These photos were taken with flash photography and the amp appears lighter than it does in person. I used the flash to properly illuminate the amp's flaws, such as the tears in the naugahyde. Just note that the actual amp is not so bright "white."
Ebay only allowed me to load 12 photos in the auction, but I will try to upload some more images from photobucket of the original 12-inch baffle, the amp sides and some more close up details.
How does the amp sound? It sounds loud and clean, which was the Standel sound. Do not buy this amp thinking you will play "da blooze" on it, because it won't give you that. If you turn up the amp all the way it gives a gritty kind of overdrive that cuts through and holds its own, but it is not a distortion-overdrive type amp. that's not what Standels were designed to do. They were meant to be loud and clean, and that's why the country and jazz and steel guitar guys loved them so much.
Why am I selling this amp? Some of you who know me personally know that I bought Standel #1032 about a year and a half ago. After owning both of these amplifiers for that time, I've realized that having two of them qualifies me for an episode of "Hoarders." It's time for me to pass this amplifier on to the next owner, and I can use the money for better things right now.
I will include a written "certificate of authentication," indicating everything I've written here, and documenting the transfer of ownership.
This amp will come shipped in no less than 4 boxes. Therefore the shipping calculator is not accurate and I will have to calculate actual postage to wherever you are once the auction ends. However, the shipping calculator should give you a rough idea. This amplifier will be shipped with the two JBL speakers each packaged in a speaker shipping box, the power amplifier packaged in a separate shipping box, and the cabinet/preamplifier packaged in a separate shipping box. Insurance is required and will be part of the shipping quote.
LOCAL PICKUP IN LOS ANGELES IS ALWAYS OKAY. I'd much rather safely hand this amp off to somebody than ship it off to a faraway place.
ALSO--PLEASE NOTE I WILL SHIP OVERSEAS! For some reason I could not figure out how to get ebay to accept the auction with the amp dimensions and weight, so I had to remove the foreign shipping options from the shipping calculator. But i WILL ship this amp outside of the USA.
Bid now, bid high, don't let it slip away! Check out my other auctions for more great stuff.
Buyer pays actual shipping. Local pickup in Los Angeles area always OK. Please note: All items are sold strictly "as is" so please study the auction and the photos and email with any questions before bidding. NO RETURNS! I accept paypal, of course, and other arrangements for payment can be made if so desired. This is a worldwide auction, but please note if you are in Canada or Italy, I have two disclaimers below. No exceptions!
CANADIAN BIDDERS: Due to high incidence of mail fraud, I require registered mail shipping. I will ship regular mail to Canada only if the buyer waives all responsibility after it leaves my hands. Otherwise, registered mail to Canada is required.
ITALY: NO BIDDERS FROM ITALY! If you are from Italy, your bid will be cancelled. Sorry, I've had too many problems with Italian bidders. If you look at my feedback I received two negative feedbacks in the last year, BOTH from Italians who were absolutely impossible to deal with. Due to eBay's irresponsible new rules prohibiting sellers from leaving negative feedback, I cannot allow bidders from Italy anymore. NO ITALIAN BIDDERS!
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On Dec-06-09 at 14:12:12 PST, seller added the following information:
I got an email from Danny McKinney at Standel catching me on one mistake I made in the listing--of course I knew this, but spaced out when doing the auction. Standel was the first to offer separate BASS and TREBLE tone controls, not VOLUME and TONE as I've written above in the description. That's what I meant to say, but it came out wrong! Also, Danny says that the "1096" looks like Bob Crooks' handwriting, comparing it to other paperwork he has from the original company. So it's very possible that the #1096 is the serial number, written in pen by Bob Crooks himself.
the rest of 'em!
OHH!!! And here's the description:
-----------------------------------------------
Original 1956 STANDEL 25L15 tube guitar amplifier!
What you are bidding on is an original 1956 Standel all-tube guitar amplifier. This is a model 25L15 with an interesting story to tell. Get comfortable in your chair and I'll tell you all about this amp. Suffice it to say that these early tube Standel amplifiers are some of the rarest, best sounding and most desirable guitar amplifiers on the planet. You don't get an opportunity to bid on one of these very often, so give yourself a great Christmas present this year, an insanely rare 1956 tube Standel!
Those familiar with the Standel amp history know that the first Standel amplifier was called the 25L15 (which stood for 25 watts, Lansing speaker, 15 inch). Beginning in 1953, these were handmade amps built on a custom basis for famous musicians and people who wanted the very best. Famous guitarists and steel guitarists like Speedy West, Joe Maphis, Merle Travis, Chet Atkins, Buddy Emmons, Hank Thompson, Ernie Ball and many more all had one of these early 25L15 custom built amps. These first 66 amplifiers were registered on a crudely handwritten "butcher paper" list, where Standel founder Bob Crooks noted who bought each amplifier. Today out of the 66 original 25L15's made, only 18 of them known to exist.
Here's a link to the original "butcher paper" list:
Standel Musical Instrument Amplifiers then click on "history" then "butcher paper list."
These Standels were the original "boutique" amplifier, made in super limited quantities on a custom basis, and were very expensive at the time, about twice the cost of a Fender. Although Standel never sold as many amplifiers as Fender, Bob Crooks' innovations, such as separate volume and tone controls, front-mounted control panel, the light-up control panel, the use of JBL speakers, the "piggyback" amp and closed back cabinets were all ideas that Standel implemented several years before Fender essentially borrowed these ideas for their own. Today, reproduction 25L15 Standel amps are being made again, on a boutique basis, by the man who currently owns the Standel name, Danny McKinney of Requisite Audio.
This amp is an unusual amp. basically this is the 1956 "shop prototype" for the 2nd series of Standel amps, the 50L15. This amp has an original early 25L15 cabinet, and an early 25L15 preamplifier, but it has a power amplifier that was the shop prototype for the next series of amplifiers, which became the 50L15. If you're following me here, it's essentially a 25L15 but with a different (50L15 type) power amplifier in the bottom. The power amp in the bottom has evidence of a variety of configurations, lots of extra holes and evidence of experimental wiring circuits, but today is equipped with 6DQ6A tubes, which were the power tube complement that Standel would use from 1956 until they quit using tubes altogether around 1963-1964.
This amp also was originally fitted with a 12-inch speaker baffle and a 12-inch speaker. I have the original 12-inch baffle, which comes included with this auction. But I wanted a 15-inch JBL in the amp so I made a replica baffle for the amp to mount a JBL D130 speaker. I carefully removed the nails holding the Standel plexiglass nameplate and put the nameplate on the 15-inch baffle. So--everything it came with is still there and included in the auction, but the baffle that is on the amp right now is a replica that I made to fit a 15" speaker.
Here is a link to the history of Standel amps:
Standel Musical Instrument Amplifiers /about_us/story/index.html
I am the person responsible for writing this "History of Standel Amps" on the Standel website, but I owe a lot of my information to the man who turned me on to these amps in the first place, a record producer named Mark Neill. Mark was the guy who really began the interest in early tube Standels, back in the early 1980's. Mark was (and is) a Merle Travis and Joe Maphis fan and began searching out these amps, and information about them, before anyone else. His knowledge helped me develop an interest in these amps, and spurred me on to further research about them. I bought this amp from Mark in the early 90's. Mark himself found it at a drum shop in San Diego ten years earlier. Both Mark and myself would take this amplifier to Bob Crooks to see what he remembered about it. Before Bob Crooks died, he was working at Barcus Berry in Huntington Beach and was very accessible. You could bring in an amp or a photo and he would tell you what he remembered about it. Bob indicated that this amp was the shop prototype between the 1st series of amps and the 2nd series of amps. He also pointed to the two oddly placed furniture tacks on the top of the amp (see photo), which Bob said indicated that this was shop prototype #2.
As a prototype, this amp was never "finished" out with many of the typical Standel appointments. There is no "flocking" sprayed on the inside of the amp cabinet. There is no light-up Standel control panel, instead just a couple of radio dials for Volume, bass, and treble, and chicken-head black knobs. Bob Crooks also seemed to remember this amp had no nameplate on it originally, but the one that is on there now is an original Standel nameplate from the 1957-1959 era. The evidence that it was put on after the fact lies in the fact that it is affixed to the right side of the speaker, whereas the Standel nameplate was traditionally mounted on the left side of the speaker. There are a few other features that make this amp more primitive than a production model 25L15, but it is what it is, an actual shop prototype amplifier used to come up with the power amplifier circuit for the 2nd series of amplifiers.
Mark Neill also showed the amplifier to legendary guitarist Joe Maphis at a San Diego concert in the 1980's. Joe Maphis remembered the amplifier well. Joe recalled this amp was brought to the "Town Hall Party" show on many occasions while Bob was testing out designs. Joe said he played through it, and Rose Lee also played through it. There is no proof of this, of course, except for Joe's verbal recollection to Mark Neill.
The most obvious candidate for who took this amplifier to San Diego would be Tommy Turman, who was and still IS a monster western swing guitar player in the San Diego/El Cajon area. Tommy is listed on the original "butcher paper" list as the original owner of #1045, which is listed as "demonstrator." One might jump to the conclusion that this is amplifier #1045, but the evidence doesn't support it. More than likely Tommy was given this prototype amp to try out and see how he liked the new circuit design, and it just stayed in San Diego until Mark Neill found it in the early 80's at a drum shop down there. I've asked Tommy, and he did not remember it specifically, but he did remember having a lot to do with the early Standel company and the field-testing of their amps. (Tommy also worked with Paul Bigsby on an early floor-pedal version of the "B-bender" around 1957, he is the real deal and a great guy!)
There is a pencil marked "1096" on the inside of the cabinet (see photo). This number would fall in line with the Standel numbering system, with the butcher paper going up to serial #1066, but it would seem to me that this amp should actually be earlier than that, and if there were thirty more 25L15's built between the last one on the butcher paper list, and this amp, I'd be surprised. So I will say that this number PROBABLY doesn't mean anything. Bob Crooks had absolutely no memory of the number or why he would have even numbered a shop prototype amp.
The condition of the amp is very good for a naugahyde-covered 53-year old amplifier. There are a couple of minor tears in the naugahyde, one of which has been repaired with thread and hot wax (see photos). The metal floor bumpers show lots of scuffs and dings from use. The amp had casters on it at one time and there are holes where the casters were removed and replaced with original type "bumper" feet. The original handle was broken and replaced (these amps are very heavy and none of them have the original leather handle--they all broke at some point lugging these things around). Overall, however, the condition is quite good, and most of these amps have the original naugahyde torn to pieces, or they have been recovered. This one has the original naugahyde (and original speaker grillcloth on the 12-inch original baffle). The speaker that is in the amplifier now is an original "signature" model Jim Lansing (JBL) D130. However, I do not think that this speaker sounds very good and I am including a SECOND JBL D130 (one from the late 50's/early 60's--worth $250 on its own!) with the amplifier. So, you will have one speaker that is period correct to the amp, and one that you can actually play! Both speakers will come in seperate boxes. I will add another picture to the auction once I pick out a good D130 to include with this amp.
This amp has been completely electronically gone through. it has been recapped, resistors replaced, etc. I always wanted to actually PLAY this amplifier and I still find the guys who collect amplifiers with original internal components that have gone bad to be slightly insane. Very high quality components were used.
Some astute observers will notice that the cabinet design is slightly different than the earlier Standels. The cabinet edges are more rounded, where the early ones are squared off. The aluminum trim is a plain metal band instead of the slightly fancier and wider metal bands used on the first amps. The answer for that is simple, Bob Crooks changed his amps and the features on them as he went along. I wondered about this myself until I was able to see amplifiers #1051 and #1060, as well as another amp that appeared to a slightly later production model amp like this one, with the 25L15 cabinet and preamp, but the 2nd series 6DQ6-equipped power amp, and these amplifiers have identical cabinet construction.
PLEASE NOTE: These photos were taken with flash photography and the amp appears lighter than it does in person. I used the flash to properly illuminate the amp's flaws, such as the tears in the naugahyde. Just note that the actual amp is not so bright "white."
Ebay only allowed me to load 12 photos in the auction, but I will try to upload some more images from photobucket of the original 12-inch baffle, the amp sides and some more close up details.
How does the amp sound? It sounds loud and clean, which was the Standel sound. Do not buy this amp thinking you will play "da blooze" on it, because it won't give you that. If you turn up the amp all the way it gives a gritty kind of overdrive that cuts through and holds its own, but it is not a distortion-overdrive type amp. that's not what Standels were designed to do. They were meant to be loud and clean, and that's why the country and jazz and steel guitar guys loved them so much.
Why am I selling this amp? Some of you who know me personally know that I bought Standel #1032 about a year and a half ago. After owning both of these amplifiers for that time, I've realized that having two of them qualifies me for an episode of "Hoarders." It's time for me to pass this amplifier on to the next owner, and I can use the money for better things right now.
I will include a written "certificate of authentication," indicating everything I've written here, and documenting the transfer of ownership.
This amp will come shipped in no less than 4 boxes. Therefore the shipping calculator is not accurate and I will have to calculate actual postage to wherever you are once the auction ends. However, the shipping calculator should give you a rough idea. This amplifier will be shipped with the two JBL speakers each packaged in a speaker shipping box, the power amplifier packaged in a separate shipping box, and the cabinet/preamplifier packaged in a separate shipping box. Insurance is required and will be part of the shipping quote.
LOCAL PICKUP IN LOS ANGELES IS ALWAYS OKAY. I'd much rather safely hand this amp off to somebody than ship it off to a faraway place.
ALSO--PLEASE NOTE I WILL SHIP OVERSEAS! For some reason I could not figure out how to get ebay to accept the auction with the amp dimensions and weight, so I had to remove the foreign shipping options from the shipping calculator. But i WILL ship this amp outside of the USA.
Bid now, bid high, don't let it slip away! Check out my other auctions for more great stuff.
Buyer pays actual shipping. Local pickup in Los Angeles area always OK. Please note: All items are sold strictly "as is" so please study the auction and the photos and email with any questions before bidding. NO RETURNS! I accept paypal, of course, and other arrangements for payment can be made if so desired. This is a worldwide auction, but please note if you are in Canada or Italy, I have two disclaimers below. No exceptions!
CANADIAN BIDDERS: Due to high incidence of mail fraud, I require registered mail shipping. I will ship regular mail to Canada only if the buyer waives all responsibility after it leaves my hands. Otherwise, registered mail to Canada is required.
ITALY: NO BIDDERS FROM ITALY! If you are from Italy, your bid will be cancelled. Sorry, I've had too many problems with Italian bidders. If you look at my feedback I received two negative feedbacks in the last year, BOTH from Italians who were absolutely impossible to deal with. Due to eBay's irresponsible new rules prohibiting sellers from leaving negative feedback, I cannot allow bidders from Italy anymore. NO ITALIAN BIDDERS!
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On Dec-06-09 at 14:12:12 PST, seller added the following information:
I got an email from Danny McKinney at Standel catching me on one mistake I made in the listing--of course I knew this, but spaced out when doing the auction. Standel was the first to offer separate BASS and TREBLE tone controls, not VOLUME and TONE as I've written above in the description. That's what I meant to say, but it came out wrong! Also, Danny says that the "1096" looks like Bob Crooks' handwriting, comparing it to other paperwork he has from the original company. So it's very possible that the #1096 is the serial number, written in pen by Bob Crooks himself.
Attachments
Standel factory photos
Hello everyone!!
Here's some photos of the Standel / Requisite Audio shop!
The last photo:
On the far left is the first Standel ever made. On the far right is Joe Maphis's amp and, the one to the left of Joe's is a prototype that Mr. Crooks would take to the Town Hall party to demonstrate for the Town Hall players.
Cheers!
Frank
Hello everyone!!
Here's some photos of the Standel / Requisite Audio shop!
The last photo:
On the far left is the first Standel ever made. On the far right is Joe Maphis's amp and, the one to the left of Joe's is a prototype that Mr. Crooks would take to the Town Hall party to demonstrate for the Town Hall players.
Cheers!
Frank
