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Old 19th January 2006, 07:40 PM   #1
Gunny is offline Gunny  United States
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Default Silvertone Model 1472

Hey new to the forum here. I just picked up a Silvertone Model 1472 112 combo. It fires up and works but takes a long time to do so. It seems like it needs at least 10 to 15 min to warm up enough to get any volume other wise it is weak and not much there until it warms up enough. I know Tubes need time to warm up but this takes longer than normal. Any ideas? I suppose I will have to give it a cap job and tubes to make it right. I bought this for a project amp so I do not mind putting some parts and time and money into it. I paid 50 bucks cash and traded a beat up cheapo Harmony electric guitar that some one gave me and I put on a set of strings so I really only have about 60 bucks total into this amp so far. Any one know what the wattage was on these? I know the 1482's were rated at about 15 watts but I have not been able to find what the 1472's were rated at? Tubes are 2- 6v6's 2-12ax7's a 6au6 and a 6x4
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Old 20th January 2006, 01:46 AM   #2
testlab is offline testlab  United States
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With 6v6's this is probably 20 watts or so. Slow warm-up sounds like bad solder joints or a burned series resistor. There is an outside chance that you have a sleepy tube. By all means, give it a cap job.
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Old 21st January 2006, 12:03 AM   #3
amperex is offline amperex  United States
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Replace all electrolytic caps plus the tube cathode bypass caps. Make sure coupling caps are not leaky as well. A leaky coupling cap will draw down the voltage on the small preamp tubes until they lower in leakage after a brief period of time (no sound). Another issue is a poor solder joint on a grid leak resistor or the resistor itself. I believe some of the tubes are most likely shot as well. Tubes warm up in 11 to 15 seconds or so.

A pair of 6V6 are normally rated for 15 watts, possibly up to 20-watts with 370 volts B+.
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Old 21st January 2006, 12:13 AM   #4
poobah is offline poobah  United States
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PING tubelab, he is a guitar amp

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Old 21st January 2006, 07:59 AM   #5
Gunny is offline Gunny  United States
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Well first things first I will get the tubes checked. Got a tech who will bench test them at the reg voltage ect and let me know if any are weak or bad he will also match any replacements. I did a visual inspection today and the resistors and solder joints all looked good at least non burnt ect. The caps did not look bad but of course I would replace them anyway. The can must be ok sofar as there is no 60 cycle hum. If tube replacement does not do the trick or if they are all good I will do a cap job and probably the resistors too as there really is not that many of them in this circuit. Thanks for the info guys. I appreciate it.
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Old 21st January 2006, 10:12 AM   #6
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One of the most common failures in valve/tube amps is the anode loads of the preamp triodes, they commonly go high or O/C. Simply measure the voltages on the triode anodes, and you can tell in seconds.
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Old 28th January 2006, 02:54 AM   #7
Gunny is offline Gunny  United States
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Testlab you nailed it. It was a combination of bad solder joints, Bad resistors, and some bad tube sockets. Tubes checked out perfect and so did the caps.
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Old 30th January 2006, 10:07 AM   #8
Gunny is offline Gunny  United States
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I should clarify most of the caps were good there was one bad one. The tech did not specify which. He is on the mindset that if the caps are good do not replace them as they are vintage and better than some you may get today? Some may agree or disagree with this I have heard it both ways. I guess I feel if they are still in good working order why replace them.
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Old 30th January 2006, 01:09 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gunny
I should clarify most of the caps were good there was one bad one. The tech did not specify which. He is on the mindset that if the caps are good do not replace them as they are vintage and better than some you may get today? Some may agree or disagree with this I have heard it both ways. I guess I feel if they are still in good working order why replace them.
It really depends on how they look?, and even more so on who manufactured them! - certain makes should be changed whenever you see them, regardless of them been faulty or not!.

But generally, if they look OK, check OK, and aren't of an unreliable make, I wouldn't replace them.
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Old 30th January 2006, 01:35 PM   #10
Gunny is offline Gunny  United States
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Thanks Nigel. First of all the tech who is checking this out for me is a musician and loves tube amps. He plays through a old vintage Ampeg. Second I would guess he is about my age middle 50's or so and he grew up working with tube stuff. His dad was a Electronic repair man back in the heyday of tubes and repaired most every thing including amps, radio's, TV.s ect and he learned from his dad from the time he could hold a soldering gun so he knows his stuff. So what he has done for this amp I feel is the right course. Besides getting the amp up and running He converted for me one of the instrument jacks it was used to make a preamp out so I can preamp out to a larger amp or PA. Kinda like having your cake and eating it too.
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