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Old 8th January 2017, 09:06 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turk 182 View Post
does the impedance selector link have continuity
Quote:
Originally Posted by turk 182 View Post
the picture gave it away (thanks to the close up) you can see the holes at the ends of the pins have no solder, but many an old Marshall with that style connector has the wire link sheared off from the head getting wedged in somewhere in the truck pack.
There´s the other same type selector there for the mains voltage. The link piece is the very same and it conducts very well. No solder on that either, and that works. Should I start looking for a replacement for that link piece?

K
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Old 8th January 2017, 09:12 PM   #12
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Very cool amp.

Take your time and do it right.

Cheers!
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Old 8th January 2017, 09:24 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by coyotesgator View Post
Very cool amp.

Take your time and do it right.

Cheers!
Man, that´s what I thought! And getting it for free, I´m going to take really good care of her

I´m glad I have a lot of 70´s electronics in stock so I can probably keep the resistors and such pretty much to that date and keeping the same feel of the amp. It would be a disgrace to update an amp like this more than necessary.

EDIT: And that´s one of the reasons for this thread, do it right. I´m asking a lot of questions about particular components to keep it in the right lane and not go overboard.

K

Last edited by DynaMate; 8th January 2017 at 09:27 PM.
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Old 8th January 2017, 09:28 PM   #14
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are you checking that link/jumper out of circuit?
with respect to the power transformer i have a suspicion that it's been replaced and likely has the selector jumpered internally.(didn't see any in the pictures)

as to the impedance selector you could solder a jumper wire or if you think that's too ghetto than yes replace it
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Old 8th January 2017, 09:54 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turk 182 View Post
are you checking that link/jumper out of circuit?
with respect to the power transformer i have a suspicion that it's been replaced and likely has the selector jumpered internally.(didn't see any in the pictures)

as to the impedance selector you could solder a jumper wire or if you think that's too ghetto than yes replace it
Checking iit out of circuit and it´s conducting. Here´s the selector without and with the jumper. The PT primary taps need the jumper link to work properly, so no conection without it.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

It probably wouldn´t ghetto at all if it was any other amp than this

K
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Old 8th January 2017, 10:08 PM   #16
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that's bizzare that it's on the inside.
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Old 8th January 2017, 10:45 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by turk 182 View Post
that's bizzare that it's on the inside.
I think that is something thought out later on in the amps life. There´s a piece of clear film between the chassis and that selector. So when looking at the selector from outside it seems like there´s no access to it. It is the same type of selector as the impedance selector but the jumper has been set inside the unit. Probably so that anyone wouldn´t knock it off by accident and then bust out the whole unit with installing it in the wrong way.

K
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Old 9th January 2017, 10:08 AM   #18
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All the electrolytic caps including the filter caps are rated 350V. How come so low rating? I looked up some matching F+T caps with 450V for replacement.

K
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Old 9th January 2017, 11:03 AM   #19
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The mains input should be using a 3 pin round 5Amp Bulgin. These were never hard wired and Laney have never used hardboard as a mains cable holder!
If you want authenticity bulgin 3 pin | eBay
Otherwise a standard IEC connector will fit after a fashion.
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Old 11th January 2017, 07:04 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by JonSnell Electronic View Post
The mains input should be using a 3 pin round 5Amp Bulgin. These were never hard wired and Laney have never used hardboard as a mains cable holder!
If you want authenticity bulgin 3 pin | eBay
Otherwise a standard IEC connector will fit after a fashion.
I will look to purchase this bulgin connector. I´ll go as close to the original as possible. Thanks for the information!

One question about the 16uf caps, they´re probably fine replaced with 25uf caps? Or even 15uf? The 15uf caps are readily available here in 500V rating as the 25uf sprague caps are only available in 50V rating.

K

Last edited by DynaMate; 11th January 2017 at 07:24 AM.
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