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Old 27th December 2013, 05:07 PM   #1
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Default Car amp with pro woofer?

Bought a pro woofer and the only thing I have to test it with is a car amp at the moment. This is a junky but known working car amp. I hooked it up and it sounds good at mid volumes but higher up with the smacks from drums I get crackling from the woofer.

Is the woofer blown or are they just not supposed to be used with car amps?

By the way the woofer is 300watts and the car amp is 200 watts and the amp is rated for the impedance of the woofer, and the sound crackles at like 1/3 power.

Any help is appreciated.
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Old 27th December 2013, 06:31 PM   #2
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It could be either, but is the woofer an actual proper PA sub-woofer? - if so that's probably an honest real 300W handling.

But in-car specifications are wildly imaginary - your '200W' car amp may well only be 20W?.
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Old 27th December 2013, 07:27 PM   #3
JMFahey is offline JMFahey  Argentina
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Is It properly mounted in a cabinet or just lying on the table?
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Old 27th December 2013, 07:58 PM   #4
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sounds like a loose voice coil
ebay is gaining momentum ever since more municipal dumps are charging dump fees
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Old 27th December 2013, 09:43 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turk 182 View Post
sounds like a loose voice coil
ebay is gaining momentum ever since more municipal dumps are charging dump fees
Hello everyone.

This is a Behringer Eurolive 15W300A8, 15" 300watt continuous, 8ohm actual pa woofer. They are used in many of the powered woofers behringer sells. Its not the best pa woofer but it certinaly should work. I bought it off of eBay and it was sold as an unused spare, yet they said it worked and sounded perfectly and when I got it I see paint missing around the screw holes (all of which implies they did in fact use this woofer).

The car amp is connected in a home to a good quality comptuer power supply and has been running like that for 4 months or so. At 12Volts it will draw over 10amps (I have an ammeter on it) so it at least draws 150 or so watts but even at maybe 40 or so the woofer starts to crackle. Bear in mind though that its rated for 200watts at 4ohms (which is how I've been running it for 4 months) so its not actually giving the woofer that much power if its at 8 ohms and drawing only 50watts or so.

It does this both in and out of an enclosure. If I manually move the woofer myself I don't hear scratching, moving the tinsel leads also seems to have no effect on the crackling noise.
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Old 27th December 2013, 10:23 PM   #6
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a loose voice coil won't always produce noise when moving the cone unless it's really severely overheated/damaged
try running low level audio and block the cone.
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Old 28th December 2013, 11:48 AM   #7
JMFahey is offline JMFahey  Argentina
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Agree and add: download a low frequency sweep .mp3 , something like 20Hz to 200 or 400Hz, which is often used to test car subwoofers and test your speaker.
Or get some frequency generator software and do the same.
I bet the woofer will work relatively well but at some frequency it will make horrible buzz, just when the loose part resonates.
When it does, move/flex/push cone different ways with your fingers trying to find it.
Doesn't mean you'll *repair* it, unless it's something very simple such as loose dustcap rattle or tinsel wires hitting the cone or some part of the frame, but you might get lucky.
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Old 28th December 2013, 06:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turk 182 View Post
a loose voice coil won't always produce noise when moving the cone unless it's really severely overheated/damaged
try running low level audio and block the cone.
Do you mean low frequency or low volume, and then to push on the cone?
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Old 28th December 2013, 06:08 PM   #9
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Could have a charcoaled VC, when it overheats it starts to bubble up & expands the coating...taking up space, zeros out the VC clearance....so it scrapes along. ???? In my case it's one of those 6X9s with the pole piece with a hokey foam dust-seals...lots of pure dirt, dust gets in these, almost like I have to pick out pieces of dirt.

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Last edited by Richard Ellis; 28th December 2013 at 06:10 PM.
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Old 28th December 2013, 06:11 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Richard Ellis View Post
Could have a charcoaled VC, when it overheats it starts to bubble up & expands the coating...taking up space, zeros out the VC clearance....so it scrapes along. ????

______________________________________________Rick .........
Well it checks out fine with an ohm meter and I'm not pushing more than 50 watts into it so I don't see how it can be overheating like that, besides the fact that it is indeed cold to the touch and after playing horribly I can turn it off and move it manually just fine.
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