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Old 19th July 2013, 02:22 PM   #11
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Cool, makes sense. Yeah, I was hoping to release a line of small combos that are my original design but this little hiccup is giving me a headache. So I understand the car/antenna analogy, but wouldn't that imply that I need to reduce cabinet vibration all together in order to reduce the possibility of tube vibration? Because if the cabinet is vibrating and the chassis is strongly secured to the cabinet they will both be vibrating at the same rate/displacement which will transfer to the tube like the antenna analogy? Or do I just need to come up with a better way to "dampen" the vibration between the cabinet and chassis? Was looking at some old Fender designs and their chassis are thicker (.060") and hanging from the top panel. However, the chassis itself is like an extreded "U", which would kind of act like a hanging "spring" and not quite transfer all the cabinet vibration...is that basically why almost EVERY combo amp uses that setup? Kinda makes sense I guess...
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Old 19th July 2013, 11:13 PM   #12
Enzo is offline Enzo  United States
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Lansing, Michigan
ALL combo amps vibrate, it is the mechanical aspect of it that determines if the parts shake and rattle. Vibrating per se is not the issue, the issue is parts moving with respect to each other.

You might need nothing more than a different tube socket, some other type than what you using. Or not. Like any other problem, you need to identify the real cause of the issue to know what to do about it. Random thoughts that come to mind might include bracing. A piece of steel angle stock along either side of the socket then screwed to the chassis would stiffen the chassis. Or rearrange the layout of your chassis so the power tube is right next to a side or even a corner.

COmbo amps have the chassis up top because, well, who would want the controls down by the floor? Amps like Polytone have the power amp/power supply down in the bottom, with a small preamp assembly up top. But that is the exception. Most amp makers are not interested in dividing their amps into subassemblies with cables between.
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Old 20th July 2013, 10:46 PM   #13
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Oamaru
just a thought, the changing actual lengths of the wood in the cabinet my change the frequency of the vibration.

you maybe able to get it to a freq your not using. my harmonica amp sounds fantastic even with a guitar plugged in (that surprised me as a guitar amps not so hot with a harmonica) but if i plug my bass into it all resonates an vibrates like hell on lowest G, G# and A any other notes on the fret board are jus peachy, so that’s my resonate frequency for the cab i could brace the cab but it wouldn’t sound as good playing harp. so what I’m tryin to say in a long wined fashion is, if you change your cabs resonate frequency it wont mater where the valve is. but it shold still give great tone.
Fat Tubes For Fat Sounds
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Old 22nd July 2013, 04:43 PM   #14
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Cool, thanks for all the feedback guys. Coincidentally I did change the power tube layout on a recent build to the back corner and so far so good...
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Old 27th August 2013, 03:04 AM   #15
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Most of the amps that I have seen simply orient the tube sockets in the best position for the shortest leads and connections, in order to reduce noise. I would also say that if the tubes will be visible, you may want to have all of the power tubes facing in the same direction as to have the logos on the tubes in the same position, but this is purely ascetic.
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