Understanding the Music Man Stingray 2-band preamp - Page 3 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Live Sound > Instruments and Amps

Instruments and Amps Everything that makes music, Especially including instrument amps.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10th January 2013, 02:18 AM   #21
diyAudio Member
 
Passinwind's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Columbia River Gorge, Washington
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMFahey View Post
As you see, the "original" in any commercial product which became a Classic is usually very good.
Those graphs don't quite actually show that though, since they are models of his buffer-added circuit, not the original. I agree that the original circuit sounds pretty nice though, especially with the pickups it was intended for.
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th January 2013, 02:43 AM   #22
JMFahey is offline JMFahey  Argentina
diyAudio Member
 
JMFahey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Buenos Aires - Argentina
Well, I wasn't referring to simulations, but to actual Music Man Basses, many of which I had the pleasure to amplify, usually to thunderous levels.
Yet, thanks for posting simulations, any tool is good if it helps.
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th August 2013, 02:14 AM   #23
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
I'm tweaking the design and used a 100K input resistor instead of the 220K. I noticed the treble pot behaved a lot differently. Does the 220K resistor along with the 1n8 cap form some sort of high pass filter to treble pot? So using a lower value resistor causes less treble to go through to the pot?
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th August 2013, 07:06 PM   #24
diyAudio Member
 
Passinwind's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Columbia River Gorge, Washington
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulBass View Post
I'm tweaking the design and used a 100K input resistor instead of the 220K. I noticed the treble pot behaved a lot differently. Does the 220K resistor along with the 1n8 cap form some sort of high pass filter to treble pot? So using a lower value resistor causes less treble to go through to the pot?
What are you trying to accomplish?

Changing the 220K to 100K changes overall gain, and also boosts bass relative to treble quite a bit. That will definitely impact how you hear the treble control response.
__________________
-- Charlie Escher
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th August 2013, 07:19 PM   #25
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by Passinwind View Post
What are you trying to accomplish?

Changing the 220K to 100K changes overall gain, and also boosts bass relative to treble quite a bit. That will definitely impact how you hear the treble control response.
thanks for the info. I was curious about the behavior of the treble with a lower resistor. I'm building these in enclosures and the original design sounded too tame. after lower the input to 100K and increasing feedback to 220K it sounds a lot better. I use the LT1351's in the builds. I build various outboard preamps with jfets and opamps and I'm surprised at how warm and musical the Stingray sounds in comparison.

Last edited by PaulBass; 8th August 2013 at 07:32 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th August 2013, 07:44 PM   #26
diyAudio Member
 
Passinwind's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Columbia River Gorge, Washington
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulBass View Post
thanks for the info. I was curious about the behavior of the treble with a lower resistor. I'm building these in enclosures and the original design sounded too tame. after lower the input to 100K and increasing feedback to 220K it sounds a lot better. I use the LT1351's in the builds. I build various outboard preamps with jfets and opamps and I'm surprised at how warm and musical the Stingray sounds in comparison.
Try changing the 1M rev audio pot to 500K rev audio. Much easier to find, and will boost the treble a little to boot. I used LT1351 in mine too (love free samples), and settled on 180K for the feedback resistor, but staying with 220K for the input one. I also have my own board layout done, but haven't gotten around to getting any fabbed yet.
__________________
-- Charlie Escher
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th August 2013, 07:06 AM   #27
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Tayda is carrying those C1M pots now and they are only $0.50. 1M OHM C1M 1MC Anti-Log Taper Potentiometer I already bought a crapload of them. I get the LT1351's directly from their website at $3 each. I noticed the 100K input resistor increases the bass and the sound is more crisp and clear.
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th August 2013, 11:25 PM   #28
diyAudio Member
 
Passinwind's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Columbia River Gorge, Washington
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulBass View Post
Tayda is carrying those C1M pots now and they are only $0.50. 1M OHM C1M 1MC Anti-Log Taper Potentiometer I already bought a crapload of them. I get the LT1351's directly from their website at $3 each. I noticed the 100K input resistor increases the bass and the sound is more crisp and clear.

Thanks Paul, I'll file that away in case I get an application it'll work in. Won't fit in my bass, but like you I'm already happy enough with what I have.;^}
__________________
-- Charlie Escher
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th August 2013, 03:06 AM   #29
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
I played the bass through a PA system and the sound is thunderous. The mids seem to be a little less scooped while keeping that Stingray sound. those resistor changes make a huge impact on the sound. I also did the same changes to the Sabre preamps. increbidle how a $100 OLP bass with a $10 (in parts) preamp can sound
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th November 2013, 03:54 AM   #30
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
I got some more from samples from Linear Tech. The LT1363 is way over the top as far as treble. The highs are crystal clear but there are some mids that are being scooped. sounds like this chip would work well in a different design. The LT1354 sounds great in both Sabre and Stingray preamps. The high mids are more pronounced than the LT1351. It has a more aggresive sound than the warmer LT1351. wish I had an O'scope so I can see whats going on. Its fun to audition chips and hear different tones
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Bose Wave Music Syst. Ultimate Sound? Gallery from inside Devices - Serv. Man. wanted tiefbassuebertr Solid State 51 28th November 2013 02:27 PM
Does it all multi-track one man band auplater The Lounge 1 23rd February 2012 11:44 AM
My poor man music server i2k92 PC Based 28 14th November 2011 04:28 PM
Music man transformer flatheadmurre Instruments and Amps 8 25th September 2011 09:36 AM
Music Man sixtyfive reverb head needs help! milanobardo Tubes / Valves 2 13th November 2005 02:24 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 05:34 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2