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Old 10th December 2012, 05:46 PM   #71
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Location: was Chicago IL, now Long Beach CA
I think people who love the latex glue like I got from Rocket Cabs like that it can be used as a cross between contact and air-dry glue. You can use it wet but as it dries you can use it like a contact type. I might be having even more trouble because I spray painted the cabinet with appliance epoxy for strength and consistency before I started, so the wood is smooth and solid and doesnt' breathe at all, and I don't imagine the vinyl breathes much, so any glue that's not dry may never dry. I finished the task with the latex, but I'm concerned that it really won't last as long as good old fashioned contact cement. The contact cement sold at Home Depot & Lowes etc. (mostly for formica laminates and wood veneers) also offer less smelly non-flammable versions now, which are probably also latex-base but might be heavier-bodied. I have to admit the latex stuff brushed well and very smoothly. It would probably be OK for large cabinets. But the details on the front of a fender-type cab are demanding. Even fender just wraps a seperate sheet on the top, preferring the lap joint on the top over mitred corners for long-term durability. But some people mentioned the old-fashioned glue also softened the tolex, making corners and seams work nicely. Others complained that it allowed the tolex to stretch during gluing and then shrink afterward. I imagine neither effect occurs much if you let the contact cement dry completely before assembly. The latex just didn't seem to stick all that well in the critical mitred corner details I decided to use. In the end, I coated all butt seams with the vinyl glue they use for seamless flooring. Vinyl cement for beach balls and waterbeds might be more affordable, the flooring cement was very expensive but included stuff to match the degree of gloss/matte/flat. I used only about 1/16 stripe of it; it doesn't seem to really melt the vinyl to any depth but seems more like a clear layer on top. It made the bottom butt seam completely invisible. The mitred front panel seams started out less perfect and ended up les perfect. The problem with the flooring seaming stuff is that the matte additive is already in a mixing bottle; it's not meant to be used in partial batches, they expect you to mix it all, which is wasteful when I only need a few drops.

I added air intake grates from the tops of Marshalls to the bottom of the amp, routed in flush. I made the openings a bit too large for the screws to bite sufficient wood, so I had to epoxy in some thin strips.

The strap handles I used were such a nice color match to the blonde! But I mounted the supports a bit too far apart and used T-nuts, kind of a pain to relocate, and yiou can barely fit your hand under the handle. So I'm making some polished aluminum bases for under the handle supports, mostly to make it easier to get your hand under but also to add strength, as this is pretyt heavy for just one handle.

Now I ran out of wheat grille cloth with little silver (not gold) strips and little balck threads. I'm really not sure which side I was even supposed to use. I used the less flashy side, maybe it was supposed to be the back? But I want the speaker cabinets to match and I can't figure out where I bought it...too late now as I bought a lot of the really plain wheat which looks good with the tolex (if a bit boring). Now I bought some fender 4/12 bottoms from the Roc Pro series, with metal grate grilles. They look too punk IMHO, but were only about $100 each. Fender made similar cabs with grille cloth and they sell for a lot more, so I'll probably add a grille cloth frame and grille cloth to each.

If I did it again I would not use the Marshall grates on the bottom, they will probably get destroyed when somebody sets the amp on an uneven surface. I should add additional rubber feet to prevent that, and also to allow this huge head to sit on various size bottoms but avoid some common indentations for wheels when stacking.

Last edited by cyclecamper; 10th December 2012 at 05:55 PM.
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Old 10th December 2012, 06:06 PM   #72
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What I haven't tried is spray contact cement, which I have a few cans of. I also have a few cans of 3M spray rubber & vinyl cement to check out.

Next is to add some stainless grates to the back, to prevent people from putting the footswitch into the cabinet and breaking tubes. I'll have another angle-shaped stainless grate in the upper back, between the chassis bottom and top of the back plate, to further protect the tubes.
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Old 10th December 2012, 06:09 PM   #73
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I got the cover, from amplifiercovers.com
The color match to the blonde is very nice. The handle opening has a nice tongue to protect the cabinet from drity hands.

I want to add something semi-rigid inside the cover at the top and the angled area that covers the faceplate and knobs. The knobs and pots need protection IMHO.
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Old 10th December 2012, 06:40 PM   #74
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I can't figure out what to glue inside the soft vinyl amp cover to reinforce it at the top and across the knobs. Maybe something rigid like plastic or spring-tempered stainless, or maybe something like masonite (though I would prefer something a little thinner). I want the cover to maintain its shape across the top, despite the scallop I cut toward the back to access the speaker jack and footswitch jack etc. And like I mientioned, I want something rigid protecting the knobs, and some padding there too.

Maybe I'll just leave it, so that it folds easier.
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Old 10th December 2012, 06:44 PM   #75
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I think I'll add some white welt around the blonde grille on the head and bottoms. I think that might look better than brown or gold etc. and more finished than none. I doubt I can find the blonde off-white or very light tan welting.
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Old 5th January 2013, 01:45 AM   #76
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Now I've got the first real problem with this amp. There's just one band of the rotary graphic EQ which does nothing at all. There's only 3 parts involved: a small inductor, a cap, and a rare pot with a strange fourth tap. So I'm going to hope it's the capacitor. With the cap and inductor in series either could cause complete failure. Of course, I should check the wires soldered onto the pot first!
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Old 5th January 2013, 01:59 AM   #77
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I really like the aluminum reflector / insulator (more reflector) on the Sound City chassis basket case I picked up. Same on many HIWATT amps, plus often another aluminum reflector on the nearby transformer. This amp could definitely use something similar! I went way out of my way to make the cabinet flow air but it's still really hot; way too hot for long-term reliability IMHO. At the least I can protect some parts.
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Old 5th January 2013, 02:11 AM   #78
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I'm looking at the schematic and I don't really understand the distortion/volume boost jack. I got the real footswitch, which has a slide switch to make that one switch either turn the "distortion" feature off & on or turn a volume boost off & on.
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Old 5th January 2013, 11:52 AM   #79
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Sylvania 6v6 - YouTube

scored some 58' grey glass 6v6 for the stealth HOLY ****! lol these smoke the **** out of all the new stuff and even better than my GEs I had Amazing lol, I was really really missing that snappy/zing thing in the mids lol
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Old 6th January 2013, 03:02 AM   #80
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i found the problem wih the one band of the rotary graphic EQ. The inductor is intermittent! Bend the leads and it goes off/on/off. At first I measured it and it was completel open, removed it and it measured OK but kind of 'blinking' on & off and I thought maybe it was the meter probe on the VTVM. So I wired it in on one side and touched the wire to the other end, and played guitar...could hear it go on & off when I push or pull on the leads.
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