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Old 14th November 2012, 02:46 AM   #61
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still overkill any way ya look at it (which arena did you say your playin at ), for me i'd stay with the 6l6's i just like their tone. oh and now I'm buildin a bass amp too. sumfin simple for the local muso's club just volume bass and treble 2x 6l6pp into a 2x12 bin or maybe a single 15" combo. seems the one there is to complected, some stupid sod keeps blowin it up.(no such thing as idiot proof just proof there's idiots ) so this one will be on the kiss principle, might make it with a flat faceplate too.
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Old 16th November 2012, 07:14 PM   #62
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I figured out that my eye pain was from the de-soldering wick rosin smoke, not from the sawdust. Took my eyes almost 2 weeks to heal.
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Old 19th November 2012, 08:10 PM   #63
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All I got done all weekend was to glue braces onto the back panel and front panel and cabinet bottom. And tonight I'm ordering some perforated stainless steel after I get home and make some measurements.
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Old 21st November 2012, 05:14 PM   #64
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Still working on the cabinet.

I'm not going to do any electrical mods until I live with it for awhile, just like you shouldn't try to change your spouse 'till you've lived together a while. But I do have some ideas. And some questions.

People tell me that generally for bass I might consider converting to a more powerful tube type, re-bias, and convert from ultralinear to a more blackface output section (of course there is no such thing as a blackface with 6 outputs). Sounds risky, not knowing whether the pi/driver will push other tube types. I still don't know whether the 'unpopular' breakup mode of the ultralinear output will be a problem, or whether I'll ever even get loud enough to enter that territory.

So: is a real SVT ultralinear output?
How much has to change to make it NOT ultralinear? Is this something that can be done with some switches, so its very easily reversible?
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Old 24th November 2012, 06:28 PM   #65
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I got the tolex on. But I'm really disappointed in the latex glue. It's still a contact-type cement, just not a great one. The cabinet looks great, but the glue is not sticking worth a damn. I'm really disappointed in the glue. I tried mutliple techniques, and it's just not a strong enough glue for the job. Which really pisses me off considering all the labor involved.
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Old 26th November 2012, 06:09 PM   #66
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Matching cream cover is coming soon. I had someone make one, rather than doig it myself. Big enough to glue in some pieces of masonit to protect the knobs and the top.

I have an inexpensive quilt that matches the color nicely, which I might also sew into a complete wrap to protect even the bottom. I don't really want a road case unless it ever really goes on the road.
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Old 26th November 2012, 06:10 PM   #67
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Heat gun on grille cloth on the front was a mistake. Melts like butter. Had to re-do the grille.
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Old 8th December 2012, 11:37 PM   #68
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O sad to here your probs with the glue, worrring as the glue i hav is latex bassed too. hows the build commin other than that, any pics? im' still watin on the sign writer to do my front pannel did most of the art work myself took it in 2 weeks ago hadn't hered anything so went in on friday "oh" says he "was just about to look at your one" so hopefully i'll get it back end of this week then i can drill the chassis. Why does everything take soooo long. oh well might be going for new years. (beter arrange a gig).
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Old 9th December 2012, 11:03 AM   #69
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Sad to hear about your trouble.
I make guitar amps commercially for over 43 years now.
Always used nasty solvent based contact cement.
Tried to move away from hydrocarbon solvents, wasted a year testing all brands of water based ones ... none works.
Plain and simple.
To be more precise, they do, sort of, with thin very flexible covering materials, including cloth (Tweed and Denim).
I developed a technique with PVA (carpenter's glue) and used it for the last 2 years, on health concerns, but it's a mixed blessing.
Once dry, it's better than anything else, but it has no tacking , so it's fine on a flat surface, but a bitch on bent edges (wrap around) and useless on corners.
I apply some staples here and there, but they either must be used on edges that are later hidden by front and back panels (or amp chassis) or removed one by one.
The last 100 Ft Tolex roll I bought came in heavy thickness and after two cabinets where I got crazy fighting "bubbles", I had to bite the bullet and go back to Toluene/Xylene contact cement.
I had forgotten what a cool adhesive it was.
Nasty fumes, of course.
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Old 9th December 2012, 05:39 PM   #70
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The Tolex is even more cool when you find old gear with years of road rash tears and rips and beer stains lol like everynow and then you see like a 1960A bottom cab with it looks like someone vomited beer all over the front of it lol
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