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#31 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: was Chicago IL, now Long Beach CA
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If you have an orbital vibrational sander, you can start with wet-or-dry sandpaper for most of the work, then use a polisher with tripoli for the last bit. Here in SoCal there's big polishing shops that do a big business with motorcycle wheels and things like that.
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#32 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: was Chicago IL, now Long Beach CA
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I worked on the cabinet some this weekend. Bought the wrong tolex and grillecloth, can't trust online pictures.
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#33 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Oamaru
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AES hav sets of samples for tolex and grill cloth, i bought the samples and yes they are quite different to the pictures.
__________________
Fat Tubes For Fat Sounds |
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#34 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: was Chicago IL, now Long Beach CA
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I bought the real original Fender part number tolex for early '60's blonde. So it should be correct. But I'm making mongrel anyway, I jsut want an OK color. Then I went looking for a handle...yikes, pistures of white ones in listings for a black or brown, cream that looks bright yellow. The real Fender blondes came with black handles, same as black ones. I got a vinyl cream-colored handle, but I'm giong to add an aluminum mounting plate at each end, otherwise I'm afraid it won't handle the weight of this big amp.
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#35 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Columbia River Gorge, Washington
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I have some experience working on both the Studio Bass and the Super Twin Reverb amps. There are quite a few restoration/conversion threads over on Talkbass that you might want to check out.
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#36 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: was Chicago IL, now Long Beach CA
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Yes, and pics of two very very nice head conversions. I found that when I first searched, before I bought the chassis.
I wish I had the paper tube chart sheet. |
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#37 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: was Chicago IL, now Long Beach CA
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BTW, I have 4 output 6L6s of one brand, and 2 of another. I didn't even figure out which sockets are push and which are pull, or which are paired yet. It came with 4 of one kind (RUBY I think) in the sataggered sockets, then the other 2 (Groove Tubes I think) in the last 2 inline sockets. Chances are that placement is incorrect, but at least I didn't get it with all empty sockets.
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#38 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: was Chicago IL, now Long Beach CA
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I'll say one thing, this head is enormous. It looks kind of like a bandmaster that grew up on steroids. The chassis is already long, then I had it made taller and deeper too.
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#39 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Adelaide South Oz
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I owned and restored 2 x 12" speaker a combo version. I was amazed to find that I measured a genuine 180W RMS pure sine wave into a dummy load when testing after the restore. A "friend" decided to use it for bass with it turned to 10 one night, set fire to the little flex wires which connect the speaker coils to the connections on the speaker frame, yep real flames, burned out both speakers. Had the speakers reconed and the thing fired straight up again. Got rid of it in the end, too bloody loud and too bloody heavy. Sold it to a young guy who wanted something to blow away his brothers 100W Marshall Head + 2 x Quad Boxes Stack, it did that without strain.
Cheers, Ian |
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#40 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: was Chicago IL, now Long Beach CA
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Of my 6 6L5GC, 4 are RUBY and 2 are Groove Tubes. So, which of the 6 sockets are push or pull? I guess I should look at the wiring; the schematic doesn't even show all 6.
I was thinking that this big honkin' clean machine would be great for baritone guitar; never tired one but I sure would like to, like some big Gretsch or a baritone tele. |
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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
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