Reverb stinks! Tank or circuit?

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PRR

Member
Joined 2003
Paid Member
Is this a 9-inch tank??

1DB1C1C
Accutronics Products and Specifications | Amplified Parts

Type 1
250 Ohms input
2,250 Ohms output
Short (1.2 to 2.0 s)
Input Insulated/Output Grounded
No Lock
Vertical, Connectors Up

The impedances are wide ranges, not exact, and you only need to be close.

Details like grounding can be fudged with jumpers in repair work.

So you really need a number similar to this, where any digit inside parenthesis is acceptable, and X is don't-care.
(1/8)(B/C/D/E)(A/B/C)1XXX

1.2-2.0s tanks seem to be rare now. 1.75-3.0s may be acceptable.

This seems to be a fair fit, and is cheap enough to try.
Reverb Tank - Accutronics, 1BB2D1B | Amplified Parts
 
The proper way is what PRR suggests:

)1 get original tank specs (he kindly did that for you)
Just in case, recheck it yourself:
Accutronics Products and Specifications | Amplified Parts

2) get into the current king of reverb tanks manufacturer: Belton, who bought Accutronics which used to be called Hammond, so you are *really* buying from the original supplier, and search its database to find the modern one closest to what you have.

You might even find an *exact* brother.

Read this catalog and find the one matching yours, such as 250 ohm input impedance, 2250 output, mounting position, connectors, etc.

The least important spec is short/mid/long reverb time because all are built the same, they just have a little more or less foam rubber stuffed at one end, so don´t lose sleep over it.
 

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PRR

Member
Joined 2003
Paid Member
> repair an old tank.

It is hard to tell from your image. You seem to be missing the little black slug for one spring (and maybe the spring also). The slug-tail was soldered in the brass tube on the far end. It may be failed in the solder, or the tail-wire. If the wire broke, you need a new wire. If the solder failed, it can be soldered again, but you really want fresh clean parts and a jig to hold it. The slug is magnetized side-ways so its rotation orientation is important.

None of these parts are sold separately. I don't know if the brass tube can be pressed out, maybe after drilling the center rivet.

It looks to me like it wants some donor tanks and someone with skills of a young watch repair person. I'd think the value of the time to make a repair would greatly exceed the cost of a new tank mass-produced by beautiful women in (now) China.

If you will settle for external appearances, the whole works from a new tank can be transferred to the old shell. Un-solder the connections and unhook the four case springs.
 
Last edited:
> repair an old tank.

It is hard to tell from your image. You seem to be missing the little black slug for one spring (and maybe the spring also). The slug-tail was soldered in the brass tube on the far end. It may be failed in the solder, or the tail-wire. If the wire broke, you need a new wire. If the solder failed, it can be soldered again, but you really want fresh clean parts and a jig to hold it. The slug is magnetized side-ways so its rotation orientation is important.

None of these parts are sold separately. I don't know if the brass tube can be pressed out, maybe after drilling the center rivet.

It looks to me like it wants some donor tanks and someone with skills of a young watch repair person. I'd think the value of the time to make a repair would greatly exceed the cost of a new tank mass-produced by beautiful women in (now) China.

If you will settle for external appearances, the whole works from a new tank can be transferred to the old shell. Un-solder the connections and unhook the four case springs.


hi
I have the spring but the magnets are broken.
Anyway I’ll order another similar unit to transfer to the original external tank.
Interesting to thinking about beautiful women buildings the reverbs... :cool:
 
hi
I have the spring but the magnets are broken.
Anyway I’ll order another similar unit to transfer to the original external tank.
Interesting to thinking about beautiful women buildings the reverbs... :cool:
Well, in the old days they said so themselves straight on the reverb case label :p

attachment.php


this is a Roland JC120 reverb tank.

As of repairing the actual tank, it can be done if you have the parts ... which nobody sells over the counter.

Some 20 years ago they offered spare spring assemblies, meaning a single spring with the rod magnets already attached and magnetized, ready to mount to solve exactly your kind of problem.

Nice idea but economically unfeasible: the spare spring assembly , with freight added, cost about the same as a full tank.

Add at least $60 for the bench time and now the repair job goes well beyond U$100 ... you can get a new tank for less and justb swap it in 10 minutes.

FWIW I used to manufacture my own reverb tanks, so I had the full die set made, but had to make huge amounts of them, at least batches of 300 units to justify it.

No big deal with springs which could be custom ordered by the 100´s, coils, frame, automatic lathe cut brass tubes, etc. , but I had to press my own hollow cylinder magnets out of ferrite dust in 5000 unit lots and then send them to a local magnet factory to have them sinterized: put in a very hot oven (it´s a ceramic material) until they *just* start to melt and each grain sticks to others around to turn into hard brittle ceramic.

There is a reason there are only a couple monster reverb tank factories left in the whole World: way too much work for an inexpensive product, you have to make millions of them to survive.
 
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