You'll get cancellation between the two sides, and if you don't put a high-pass infrasonic filter on the amp then very low frequencies from slapping the strings etc. can make slower extreme cone excursions and cause you to exceed xmax.
I don't even like a ported cabinet for bass guitar.
I like sealed boxes for bass guitar, and choose my drivers for the frequency band and box size for Qtc. Very simple and straightforward whether you're going for a pop&slap lead bass with lots of 10"'s like and SVT or a walk line with couple of 15's. A bass guitar doesn't really go too low..
Check out what Orange is doing with compact isobaric cabinets if you want to try something new.
I don't even like a ported cabinet for bass guitar.
I like sealed boxes for bass guitar, and choose my drivers for the frequency band and box size for Qtc. Very simple and straightforward whether you're going for a pop&slap lead bass with lots of 10"'s like and SVT or a walk line with couple of 15's. A bass guitar doesn't really go too low..
Check out what Orange is doing with compact isobaric cabinets if you want to try something new.
Its true that a 4-string bass don't go all that low. The low E is "just" 42 Hz. Problem is that most ported bass cabinets I've listened to don't go to 42 Hz. The fundamental is usually lost somewhere around A (55 Hz). Sealed cabinets are better I agree, but I really like the sound of open baffle bass for hifi, so why not try it for bass guitar as well?
My current bass amp - small and cheap - is a laugh. Its a Laney RB2. The 10" woofer has about 1 mm Xmax, resonant frequency somewhere around 150 Hz. The very small ported cabinet is tuned to 120 Hz. And the frequency response of the amp itself is a joke, even with the "bass" control on max it rolls off at the low end. There is simpy nothing below 150 Hz, and they call it a bass amp??
My current bass amp - small and cheap - is a laugh. Its a Laney RB2. The 10" woofer has about 1 mm Xmax, resonant frequency somewhere around 150 Hz. The very small ported cabinet is tuned to 120 Hz. And the frequency response of the amp itself is a joke, even with the "bass" control on max it rolls off at the low end. There is simpy nothing below 150 Hz, and they call it a bass amp??
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Hi,
Very bad idea, it simply won't work unless your playing in a light jazz combo.
Sealed is standard, depending on the drivers vented an option.
There are some outstandingly poor bass combo's out there, probably lashed
up by a guitar combo designer, with no real idea what they are doing.
Nevertheless, the best compact, loudest and useful for purpose bass
equipment only goes flat to around 80Hz, because for the same flat
to 40Hz it would need to be 8 times bigger, a bugger to transport.
Open backed bass cabinets are awful for modern music. Don't go there.
rgds, sreten.
Very bad idea, it simply won't work unless your playing in a light jazz combo.
Sealed is standard, depending on the drivers vented an option.
There are some outstandingly poor bass combo's out there, probably lashed
up by a guitar combo designer, with no real idea what they are doing.
Nevertheless, the best compact, loudest and useful for purpose bass
equipment only goes flat to around 80Hz, because for the same flat
to 40Hz it would need to be 8 times bigger, a bugger to transport.
Open backed bass cabinets are awful for modern music. Don't go there.
rgds, sreten.
Well, yes, once the driver starts beaming, dipole starts to become more and more like bipole... but you can't EQ out off-axis oddities. Also, simple beaming is much smoother, and MUCH more usable, than this:
from http://www.linkwitzlab.com/models.htm
I really can't see any advantages to dipole in this application.
That model is just a model. It dont look like that in real life. I know, I have dipole speakers, and I have measured them.... but anyway, I get your point. Its not a good idea to operate a dipole speaker above the dipole peak. Hm....... guess I should consider sealed box then, or make a two-way dipole.
Like to add that I'm not after a very loud bass amp, its just for practice and for playing electric bass with unamplified acoustic instruments and voices.
Like to add that I'm not after a very loud bass amp, its just for practice and for playing electric bass with unamplified acoustic instruments and voices.
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yeah, I have tried it with 15" semi pro woofer
but without any low cut high pass filter
I could only play VERY light and soft
didn't take much to make the woofer move like crazy
in the experimental big midhorn I use right now, and same inadequate amp, the woofer barely moves at all, even when playing much harder
but without any low cut high pass filter
I could only play VERY light and soft
didn't take much to make the woofer move like crazy
in the experimental big midhorn I use right now, and same inadequate amp, the woofer barely moves at all, even when playing much harder
I did an experiment here tonight. I hooked up my twin 21" H-baffle subwoofers to my bass head. There was bass... but it sounded awful. The 21" woofers in that baffle is no good above 200 Hz. It needs to be a 2-way solution IF its going to work.
Oh well... think I'll rather go for a sealed box. But I would like 40 Hz flat, and that is not going to be easy with typical pro audio woofers....
Oh well... think I'll rather go for a sealed box. But I would like 40 Hz flat, and that is not going to be easy with typical pro audio woofers....
Yes.
Perhaps a vented 3-way? That way you can get the cleanest possible sound while having good dispersion so that you are free to move around.
I know this is about DIY, but you can get very very nice combo fore that kind of money
I'm buying one with 2x 10"
and if I need more, there is line out fore powered woofer cabinet, or 'just' speakon out fore a bigger woofer
and those new things also have USB, which might be nice fore practicing the music you play with your mates, etc
DIY simply cannot beat that, no chance
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