All,
I'm putting together a Fender 5C1 clone and want some advice on the choke in the CLC supply for the B+. Simulated at 10H, ripple is ~20mV and at 5H ripple is ~40mV. I believe original Fender chokes were ~4H.
What are the advantages/disadvantages to going with the 5H over the 10H and vise versa?
Thank you,
I'm putting together a Fender 5C1 clone and want some advice on the choke in the CLC supply for the B+. Simulated at 10H, ripple is ~20mV and at 5H ripple is ~40mV. I believe original Fender chokes were ~4H.
What are the advantages/disadvantages to going with the 5H over the 10H and vise versa?
Thank you,
I would suggest using the same as Fender did - valve amplifiers are really about low quality, improving the quality of the design will probably affect the sound in ways you don't want. Part of the 'valve sound' which some people seem to find appealing is partly down to poor power supplies, bad regulation, and excessive mains hum. This is why some modern designs have switchable rectifiers, modern silicon ones for higher and cleaner output, and original valve ones for lower power, higher distortion, and a nice 'droopy' HT rail.
You making a 5C1 or a 5E1?
5E1 - choke, 6V6, 12AX7, 5Y3.
5C1 - 500 ohm resistor, 6V6, 6SJ7, 5Y3.
First, this is a single ended amp - one power tube. it is running in class A, so you are not getting sag to begin with.
Are you using those tiny little 8uf filter caps as in the original? Bump those up to 20uf and see how that smooths things.
5E1 - choke, 6V6, 12AX7, 5Y3.
5C1 - 500 ohm resistor, 6V6, 6SJ7, 5Y3.
First, this is a single ended amp - one power tube. it is running in class A, so you are not getting sag to begin with.
Are you using those tiny little 8uf filter caps as in the original? Bump those up to 20uf and see how that smooths things.
Chris-
I think your amp will be 'quiet enough' when you get it built, with the design 'as is'. Pay attention to your grounding in the build.
Most guitars are so noisy (especially single coil PUs) that amp noise is a minor thing...ie amp is quiet, plug in guitar and the fun starts.
All in the game.....
John
PS- make sure you use a decent speaker (eg Weber speaker for Champ or better); the 'original' speakers that Leo used were pretty cheap. (I've owned a few tweed Champs).
I think your amp will be 'quiet enough' when you get it built, with the design 'as is'. Pay attention to your grounding in the build.
Most guitars are so noisy (especially single coil PUs) that amp noise is a minor thing...ie amp is quiet, plug in guitar and the fun starts.
All in the game.....
John
PS- make sure you use a decent speaker (eg Weber speaker for Champ or better); the 'original' speakers that Leo used were pretty cheap. (I've owned a few tweed Champs).
Yeeeeeeah! Unless he plays with his avatar's guitar.
Most electric guitars are so noisy that worrying about the size of the choke sounds funny.
So, why are you building this one? SE with tube rectifier.
I figured I could alter my overall SPL output via speaker choice.
Most guitar amplifier schematics I have looked at only have volume controls as gain attenuation at the amplification stage. Are there any advantages to adding a pot at the input so that the gain at both the preamp and the power amp can be attenuated?
Most guitar amplifier schematics I have looked at only have volume controls as gain attenuation at the amplification stage. Are there any advantages to adding a pot at the input so that the gain at both the preamp and the power amp can be attenuated?
Amps with 'Master Volume' controls are pretty common (sometimes it's 'Gain' and 'Volume').
Playing with a Champ-style amp (like the ValveJr,Champ,small Kalamazoo amps, etc) the volume control on the guitar is an important tone/distortion control. A volume control before the first tube in the amp would be redundant, I think.
Keep it simple on a Champ, IMO.
John
Wiring a Switchcraft 13E...
Anyone know how to do this? There are 4 solder tags instead of the normal 2. Here's a pic:
Switchcraft #13 1/4 isolated make circuit jack : NewOldSounds.com
Anyone know how to do this? There are 4 solder tags instead of the normal 2. Here's a pic:
Switchcraft #13 1/4 isolated make circuit jack : NewOldSounds.com
5C1 - adding gain
I finished this amp a few years ago. If I wanted to add gain, is it best to swap the input tube for something with higher mu or leave it and add a driver tube? I know that the 6SJ7 is well thought of as an input tube, and overall the amp is very nice sounding. Extremely warm, dynamic, touch sensitive and clean. The one mod to the 5C1 that is present already is that it is cathode bias. What would be involved in driving the 6V6 into A2 operation?
Gordon Rankin makes something similar with a 6072A as the driver.
I finished this amp a few years ago. If I wanted to add gain, is it best to swap the input tube for something with higher mu or leave it and add a driver tube? I know that the 6SJ7 is well thought of as an input tube, and overall the amp is very nice sounding. Extremely warm, dynamic, touch sensitive and clean. The one mod to the 5C1 that is present already is that it is cathode bias. What would be involved in driving the 6V6 into A2 operation?
Gordon Rankin makes something similar with a 6072A as the driver.
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