|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Instruments and Amps Everything that makes music, Especially including instrument amps. |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
|
I have an "Astronic Audio Response Equaliser type A1671", 60's model I think, could someone help me with connecting this up for electric guitar recording please.
It has 9 bands & on the rear panel there are two connecting sockets one has 18 pins & the other has 4. I dont' have the connecting plugs but can work around that. Not sure how to connect this properly? It has an on/off switch as well as a in/out switch & a Level Pot, there is also a red light so it seems to require power? I have attached a very poor picture of the same model I found on the Internet. Cheers |
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
|
Get someone to take a picture of the inside with the cover off otherwise we do not have much to work with.
Offhand I would say you would need a preamp to go between your guitar and the input as the equalizer is a low impedance and your guitar is high impedance. You might be able to use a foot pedal as the interface. |
|
|
|
#3 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
|
Thanks for the reply Printer2,
A Pre Amp or a Footpedal is no problem as I have a few. I removed the top & bottom covers from the unit & took a couple of pictures, attached. You can't see much from them without dismantling the entire unit. I spent some time working out the schematic for it & have attached that as well, if anyone can understand it. I'm sure everyone will let me know if I buggered it up ![]() On the far left is the sliding selector mechanism, up near the top of this I have marked the contact poles A & B & this corresponds to A & B marked on the schematic. The sliding selectors are in contact with the B side all the time & the A side of it will contact either one or two single poles at once. At the top right of the schematic there is the 18 pin socket numbered accordingly, these numbers also correspond to the numbers on the schematic. Just down from the top of the schematic itself you will see where I have numbered some wires that run to the 18 pin socket. Eg, numbers 1 2 3 4 etc on the schematic go to pins 1 2 3 4 etc on the socket. I did this so the schematic was not so cluttered. For the small circuit wired to the 18 pin socket, the two resistors represent a pot & I couldn't find a switch in the program so I just drew a rough switch, it's a two position switch, either one way or the other. There is another 4 pin socket on the rear of the unit but after having a look these are just for lighting up the red light on the front panel & serve no other purpose? Not sure why they put it there to start with, the device needs no power as far as I can see. Now, how to wire this sucker up to use it?? Also can someone give me a brief or otherwise explanation of how this unit works, I was expecting to see more components inside, not just resistors. Do these just attenuate varying frequencies ![]() Cheers |
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
|
Hate to be the bearer of bad news but but you have a nine channel resistive divider network. The slider is a big switch and you have a resistor ladder network attached to it. Each card I would guess goes out to your multi pin connector. This module is to be interfaced with some on board electronics on the board.
You have a rack of precision sliders, not much use unless you wanted to build the electronics to go with it. Not that that is practical. |
|
|
|
#5 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
|
Thanks Printer2,
Now I can see what it is, no problems as I got it for nothing, do you think I could make it into a Decade box of sorts or is it useful as another piece of test equipment maybe? I couldn't see how it could work as an equaliser, that's why I asked. Cheers |
|
|
|
#6 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
|
Quote:
Basically they are a rack of level controls. If you have a use for some and they fit the bill then they are useful. If not then they are just a relic from the past. |
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
|
Thanks Printer2,
Yeah, I guess your right, i'll have a think, seems a pity to throw it in the corner as a relic from the past. I will have a use for it i'm sure. I am a Luthier of about 30 years & am setting up some recording gear among many other things. Cheers Last edited by wdcw; 7th August 2010 at 11:57 PM. |
|
|
|
#8 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
|
I remember these from the 60's - the active electronics were in a separate box connected by a multi-cable 'umbilical'. I guess the idea was to make panel mounting easier.
Found a nice front panel shot here: Adrian Utley: Recording Third |
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| WTB: Parametric Equaliser for subwoofer | mrevie | Swap Meet | 0 | 17th May 2009 03:52 PM |
| Graphic 1/3 Octave Tube Equaliser | ak_47_boy | Tubes / Valves | 5 | 7th July 2007 09:04 AM |
| digital equaliser chip | elektorronikci | Digital Source | 0 | 15th July 2006 09:01 AM |
| Graphic Equaliser | Duck-Twacy | Multi-Way | 1 | 24th May 2004 04:49 AM |
| best opamp for equaliser | MurrayP | Solid State | 46 | 30th December 2002 07:02 PM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |