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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
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Sorry for being a complete useless but.....
Can somebody please put me right on soldering a 1/4 jack socket on my guitar project. Wires from the switches to the jack are TWO - one red (inner white with outer braiding) / one yellow. I've soldered the yellow to the outer connection on the jack with the red (inner white) to the inner jack connection leaving the braiding cut off and NOT connected to anything. When plugging into the amp I get a horrible buzzing which goes away to silent when I either touch the jack holder or the lead connection with my hand. Otherwise the guitar sound plays through the amp no bother! Just this horrible buzzing - not too loud but definitely there! Help please - I'm slightly competent but definitely no "boffin"!
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
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Very disappointed I have had no replies with solution to my problem re - USELESS SOLDERER.
To date 43 viewers of this post and NO replies!!!!....C'mon guys! I joined this Forum expecting some life out there!!!!!! Looks like i may have to look elsewhere.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Dorset, UK
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If you gave us more information it would help. Like type of amplifier, drawing of connections etc.
No one could diagnose your problem from what you have told us as all amps vary. Tony. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Vilnius
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ALL buzz problems can be solved by carefully shielding all cavities, using shielded wires, making proper ground planes etc. Google is your friend
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Nothing is as simple as it seems |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
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you may have already solved your problem... (am not sure what pick-ups /switching you've done, but fact you can touch strings...and buzz quits? Try taking shielding (meaning the wrap around wire) to ground...(or) one of (2) wires to ground.... see what happens.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Western Sydney
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"leaving the braiding cut off and NOT connected to anything" -
that'll cause the buzz, it needs to be connected to the earth (outer) connection of the jack.
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Impedance varies with frequency, use impedance plots of your drivers and make crossover calculations using the actual impedance of the driver at the crossover frequency |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Soldering the braiding to the biggest connection of the plug will sort you out. Regards, Chris
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"Throwing parts at a failure is like throwing sponges at a rainstorm." - Enzo My setup: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...tang-band.html
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Jeffersonville, Indiana USA
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You want a blow by blow of a hum war look at the last post of this thread Improving a "Disco mixer" to mid-fi performance
Took me over 7 months to figure out. There is no one solution to eliminating hum. Fresh & adequate power supply capacitors, solid connections both input sides, cable shield connected to case only at one end, metal box grounded to the wall safety ground at only one point, steel box around power transformer or transformer mounted outside the amplifier case, power supply regulator, local hash bypass caps, blah, blah blah. The thread doesn't even talk about how many times I broke the solder joint on the input connectors. One tip- don't buy SPC21418 XLR connectors, the housing wiggles too much and bumps the connections. Some of the issues on proper input cable design are covered in this thread Phono MC/MM who is running balanced? One reason guitar effect kits usually suggest a 9V battery as power is they don't want get into the above issues about power line hum, for a $29 kit. Even if you have to buy a $3 battery every week.
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Dynakit ST70, ST120, PAS2,Hammond H182(2 ea),H112,A100,10-82TC,Peavey CS800S,1.3K, SP2-XT's, T-300 HF Proj's, Steinway console, Herald RA88a mixer, Wurlitzer 4500, 4300 Last edited by indianajo; 28th December 2010 at 07:13 PM. |
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