building spring reverb - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Live Sound > Instruments and Amps

Instruments and Amps Everything that makes music, Especially including instrument amps.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 8th May 2008, 05:53 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Default building spring reverb

i'm looking to build a spring rever unit cab and all and was wondering if anyone had any usefull links on a step by step or a how to. i can get the reverb tank and i have a small 1 watt amp. I'm not realy sure whats involved any help would be apreciated thank you
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th May 2008, 06:02 PM   #2
gni is offline gni  United States
diyAudio Member
 
gni's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Google it. . .
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th May 2008, 05:56 AM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
unclejed613's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
mount the reverb spring in whatever position it was originally. they are made with the suspension springs in various positions to keep the tank suspended properly in one position only. i could explain how to modify the suspensions for various mounting positions, but i'd need one in front of me, and i don't have one in my parts collection. if you have good-to-excellent mechanical skills, it's not too hard to figure out.
__________________
Vintage Audio and Pro-Audio repair ampz(removethis)@sohonet.net
spammer trap: spammers must die
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th May 2008, 08:26 AM   #4
Nordic is offline Nordic  South Africa
diyAudio Member
 
Nordic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Yes my friend google.... have seen variants, from tube to chip to transistors handleing the tank...

http://www.freeinfosociety.com/elect...page.php?cat=1

You can also follow that link and find many schematics to pirate off...
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th May 2008, 08:30 AM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
Geek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Here's the test jig I use for spring tanks:
http://geek.scorpiorising.ca/GeeK_Zo...php?topic=3551

You can lose the 5751 and adapt it in

Cheers!
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th May 2008, 01:55 PM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
unclejed613's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
here's a breakdown of the part nimber system for reverb tanks:

Accutronics Reverb Tanks

Almost all the reverb tanks that one sees for sale are the Accutronics brand. They are made by:

Sound Enhancements, Inc.
185 Detroit St.
Cary, IL 60013
Although they make many models, the three types that are readily available are a limited number of their types 4, 8, and 9. The type 4 is 17" long and uses 2 long springs, each of which consists of two springs joined in the middle. Thus, Accutronics considers this model a 4-spring unit. This type was the original style selected by Leo Fender. The type 8 is 9" long and uses 3 springs. This type is most famous for its use by Marshall. The type 9 is 17" long and uses 3 long springs, each of which consists of two springs joined in the middle. Analogously, Accutronics considers this unit a 6-spring device. All Accutronics' part numbers consist of 7 characters as described below.

1st character: type 4, 8, or 9

2nd character: Input impedance @ 1kHz
Type | A B C D E F
4 | 8 ohms 150 ohms 200 ohms 250 ohms 600 ohms 1475 ohms
8 and 9 | 10 ohms 190 ohms 240 ohms 310 ohms 800 ohms 1925 ohms

3rd character: Output impedance @ 1 kHz
Type | A B C
4 | 500 ohms 2250 ohms 10000 ohms
8 and 9 | 600 ohms 2575 ohms 12000 ohms

4th character: Decay time
1 = short (1.2 to 2 sec)
2 = medium (1.75 to 3.0 sec)
3 = long (2.75 to 4 sec)

5th character: Connector arrangement
A = input grounded, output grounded
B = input grounded, output insulated
C = input insulated, output grounded
D = input insulated, output insulated

6th character: Locking device 1 = no lock

7th character: Mounting plane
A = horizontal,open side up
B = horizontal, open side down
C = vertical wall,long axis horizontal, connectors up
D = vertical wall, long axis horizontal, connectors down
E = vertical wall, long axis vertical, input up
F = vertical wall, long axis vertical, output up

The following table summarizes the above data for the most commonly available units:

PART NUMBER PRIMARY USER LENGTH NUMBER OF SPRINGS INPUT IMPEDANCE@ 1KhZ/DC

OUTPUT IMPEDANCE @ 1KhZ/dc
4AB3C1B Fender 17" 4 8ohms/.81ohms 2,250ohms/200ohms
4BB2C1B Acoustic/SLM/Ampeg 17" 4 150ohms/26ohms 2,250ohms/200ohms
4EB2C1B Peavey 17" 4 600ohms/58ohms 2,250ohms/200ohms
4FB3D1B Music Man General 17" 4 1475ohms/200ohms 2,250ohms/200ohms
9AB2C1B Fender/ Boogie 17" 6 10ohms/.81ohms 2575ohms/200ohms
9EB2C1B Peavey/General 17" 6 800/58ohms 2575ohms/200ohms
9FB2A1C General 17" 6 1,925/200ohms 2575ohms/200ohms
8AB2A1B Boogie 9" 3 10ohms/.81ohms 2575ohms/200ohms
8BB2A1B SLM 9" 3 190ohms/26ohms 2575ohms/200ohms
8DB2C1B Marshall 9" 3 310ohms/36ohms 2575ohms/200ohms
8EB2C1B Fender 9" 3 800ohms/58ohms 2575ohms/200ohms



if you know where the isolating springs go for each mounting position, you can change the mounting type (mounting plane). all you have to do is move the outside ends of the springs to the proper holes in the case.
__________________
Vintage Audio and Pro-Audio repair ampz(removethis)@sohonet.net
spammer trap: spammers must die
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th June 2009, 01:28 AM   #7
Key is offline Key  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Default More questions

Okay some more newbish questions since I was thinking of doing this as well and buying a line level reverb tank or two for my bedroom recording studio.

Are reverb tanks passive devices? That need to be followed by a pre-amp? And if so what would be the best way to do the impedance flow?


For instance my soundcard which I plan on bussing tracks to the reverb unit is the Mackie Onyx 400f. Output impedance is like this.

Mic Input:
2.4 kΩ balanced
Inst Input:
1 MΩ
Line:
20 kΩ balanced, 10 kΩ unbalanced

Output Impedance
Line:
100 Ω balanced

Now if it is passive should I have the input impeadance come as close as possible to the output impeadance of the line outs on the Onyx (150ohm or 200ohm)? And do the same for the output of the reverb tank and the inputs of the card (10k for line or 2.25k for mic input pre-amp).
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th June 2009, 03:18 AM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
unclejed613's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
a "line level" reverb tank should have the driver and preamp circuits included. the reverb tanks in previous posts are the basic spring units themselves with no drivers/preamps, just the metal box with springs and magnetics.

just running the outputs of the soundcard into a spring unit won't work well, as there's a huge amount of loss in the transducers and springs.

usually with a spring unit, you have a preamp and spring driver. at the input to the spring driver, the audio path splits int two paths "dry" (original signal) and "wet" (the reverb signal). the "dry" signal then goes directly to the output mixer/buffer. the "wet" signal is amplified to get the required drive current to the spring's input transducer. the transducer is like a small electromagnet that drives the steel spring with audio. the steel spring vibrates mechanically and acts as a delay line. that's why there are more than one spring with different coil pitches, one spring has more delay than the one next to it so the echoes from each spring arrive at different times. also, being springs, the signal echoes back and forth many times along the springs. at the output end, a second transducer magnetically picks up the vibration of the springs and turns it back into an audio signal, which is amplified by a high gain preamp stage and fed into the mixer/buffer to be mixed with the "dry" signal.

actually using a soundcard, i'm surprised you don't have a spring "emulator". some of the better modeled ones sound quite convincing, until you bump the side of the computer and no spring "crash" comes out......
__________________
Vintage Audio and Pro-Audio repair ampz(removethis)@sohonet.net
spammer trap: spammers must die
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th June 2009, 03:20 AM   #9
Key is offline Key  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Yeah, I guess I am wondering if I can get around that by selecting the proper impedance and just using one of my mic pre-amps.

And realize this is for a multitrack so I don't need onboard blending or any of that. Just full reverb to be tracked and blended. No frills as little circuitry as possible.
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th June 2009, 03:39 AM   #10
diyAudio Member
 
unclejed613's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
sorry, i was editing my post while you were posting.... see the rest of my last post.....
__________________
Vintage Audio and Pro-Audio repair ampz(removethis)@sohonet.net
spammer trap: spammers must die
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
SR-101 Pioneer Spring Reverb StrangeDesign Tubes / Valves 13 27th June 2010 02:57 PM
Spring Reverb Units TGRANT Solid State 11 4th March 2009 11:31 PM
Spring Reverb transformer ThSpeakerDude88 Tubes / Valves 6 18th April 2007 03:17 AM
Transducers for a spring reverb seilee Instruments and Amps 3 5th December 2006 02:56 PM
Help - tube driver for spring reverb... memphissound Tubes / Valves 8 16th September 2005 05:51 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 09:27 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2