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Old 1st February 2008, 03:42 PM   #11
Brion55 is offline Brion55  United States
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Grizzly (woodworking machine supplier) has a lot of guitar parts and kits (the owner makes guitars as a hobby)

Grizzly.com

I would disagree with the use of animal glue. Having built pipe organs for over 30 years, I'm very familiar with animal (hide) glue. In pipe organs we use it for applying leather and other things that will eventually need replacing because the glue can be easily removed with window cleaner. Titebond (alphatic resin glue) is used by over 90% of instrument makers.

Photo of one of the many organs I built.
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Old 11th February 2008, 04:07 AM   #12
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well, I've gotten a little bit of work done on the guitar. Sorry, no pictures of the wood, my camera batteries were dead. I've gotten the wood for the neck planed down to the correct thickness (or just about), and the body blanks were squared off and cleaned up. Unfortunately, one of the large walnut blocks has a fairly large crack running through it. I'm going to have to cut the block along the crack, edge plain it, and glue the block back together. In the meantime, however, I've ordered most of the hardware and extras for my guitar.

Here's the stuff I was able to get from Guitar Fetish:
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

I've also ordered an ebony fretboard, preslotted for 24 frets and radiused to 12" from LMI, pore filler, pick guard material, truss rod, fret wire, nut, and other miscellaneous items.
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Old 11th February 2008, 07:33 AM   #13
Brion55 is offline Brion55  United States
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Be sure to post photos as you progress - want to see it!
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Old 13th February 2008, 01:02 AM   #14
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Well, today was a good day for my guitar. While class was shortened because of a 2 hour late start due to snow, I did manage to get the neck glued together today.

These first two show the 7 layers I'm using for the neck/center of the body. The whole thing measures 4 - 4 1/4" (I can't remember exactly). The humbucker pickup rings are slightly skinnier than this block of wood.
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Here's a picture showing the clamps used to hold the whole thing together.
Click the image to open in full size.

And two more views showing the clamping of the neck.
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.


In addition to getting this small part completed, I came home to find a shipment from LMI. In this, I received my fretboard, fret wire, truss rod, side and front mother-of-pearl inlays, and pick guard material which I'll use for cavity covers.

So here's a picture of all of it sitting on a chair.
Click the image to open in full size.

Now the two different sized MOP inlay dots
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Click the image to open in full size.

A close up of the Madagascar Ebony fretboard, pre-slotted for 24 frets, and radiused to 12".
Click the image to open in full size.

And finally a close up of the fret wire
Click the image to open in full size.

Next, I plan to plane the neck so that it's flat, and begin to draw out the cuts I'll need to make.

Since I want an angled neck, I'm thinking I'll do a rough cut at the ~3 degree angle on the table saw. To flatten it, I'm thinking I can run in through the edge planer to get a perfectly flat surface to glue the fretboard to. Next, I'll cut the angle for the headstock to attach to. After this, I will route the truss rod cavity. Then I'll go back, cut the neck down to the correct thickness. Then I should be able to glue the fretboard on, and taper the neck down.

In the meantime, I also plan to first cut out the rough shape on the two blocks of walnut. This way, when I glue the neck to the wings, It won't be too wide to send through the planer, and it also will make cutting the horns on the band saw easier (our school has a fairly small band saw. A buddy of mine is also building a guitar and he's further than I am, and he cut the body out after gluing the neck in, but I think my way will be easier.)

Then I'll route the pickup and electronics cavities.

After this, comes the real work, I plan on carving both the front and the back of the body. On the back, I'll do the standard cutout for the chest, but I'm also planning on doing a small amount of carving since I like the feel of my Epiphone SG which is thinner than my homemade Telecaster (my first custom guitar - done in a class with a pre-built necks).

So with the basic plan I've outlined here... does anybody see any major problems/flaws or things I should watch out for?
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Old 13th February 2008, 08:31 AM   #15
Akita is offline Akita  Malaysia
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wow! it look great
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Old 14th February 2008, 05:17 AM   #16
Brion55 is offline Brion55  United States
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I know you want to finish it fast, but be sure to let the glued-up parts set for at least a couple of weeks before machining. The glue puts a lot of moisture into the wood that makes it swell. If it isn't really dry before machining, it can cause a lot of grief down the road. Found this out the hard way...
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Old 6th March 2008, 02:23 AM   #17
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Sorry for the long wait between updates. Unfortunatly, class has been canceled because of weather a few times, and I've also forgotten my camera.

Well, I finally have updates. Since my last update, I've managed to plane the neck flat again, draw oou all of my cuts, cut off the headstock portion of the neck, and re-glue it on. Here's a few pics:

In this picture, you can see how I glued the whole thing together. The piece on the bottom is only there to give me parallel surfaces for the clamps.
Click the image to open in full size.

In this next picture, I have a few dowels which I set into both the headstock piece and the neck since I didn't want the pieces to slip after I had clamped them together.
Click the image to open in full size.

Unfortunately, the block I was using to clamp against was also glued to the neck, so when I pulled it off, I had a small amount of tear-out; I'm fairly sure it won't affect the finished product, but I'm a perfectionist, and having looked over this simple fact makes me somewhat worried about what other mistakes I may make later which will affect the guitar.
Click the image to open in full size.

Next, is look at the whole headstock glued onto the neck. As you can see on the right hand side of the picture, the headstock piece is set down from the plane of the neck blank. This is because I'm planing on having an angled neck, so the line drawn is where the neck will actually be.
Click the image to open in full size.

-----------------

Next I need to figure out how to cut the neck angle. I had thought I would use the edge joiner at my school, block up the bottom end of the neck, and slowly shave the neck down to the line, however, the out-feed table on the jointer has been messed with, so it leaves a slight arch to anything being sent across it. Right now, I'm looking for somewhere else that I could cut this angle on their jointer, and I'm looking for some other way to cut the angle of my neck and ensure that it's flat. Any tips?

Between the need to cut the neck angle, and the lack of wood for the body, I'm somewhat at a stand still right now. The walnut blocks I have, cracked further after acclimating to the room. Where as I could have worked around the checks and splits as shown in the pictures above, I wont' be able to now. So I am now in the process of looking for walnut. If anybody knows of any good dealers in North Central Iowa who will have something in stock for me to look at, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Preferably, I would like two blocks 2" thick, 9" wide, with one being 19" long and the other being 24". However, if I can't find anything, I may go with a Mahogany body with a walnut top, where I'd still need the same dimensions, except I'd only need it 3/4" to 1" thick.

Does anybody know of online places I could look too? I've found plenty of sites where I can buy gunstock or table top sized slabs of walnut, but the gunstock chunks are too narrow, while the table tops are way too big, making them much too expensive. While I would like something with a slight amount of figuring, I don't need AAAAA grade figuring (I can't afford it).

Any help, comments, or criticisms are appreciated.

-Logan
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Old 6th March 2008, 05:03 PM   #18
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I have had real good luck getting great wood at good prices off of ebay. Takes a little searching, but well worth it. Heres a couple places I look;

http://instruments.search.ebay.com/_...MEFSRCHQ3aSRCH

http://crafts.search.ebay.com/wood_W...MEFSRCHQ3aSRCH

Also, if I'm not mistaken, EMG p'ups come with the correct pots already wired up-at least all the ones I have bought over the years have.

Hers a link that might help you with your jointer;

http://www.owwm.com/FAQ/JointerTune.asp

Oh, btw, that fingerboard doesnt look like ebony to me, it looks more like rosewood

Anyway, it looks like you have a great start to your project, so good luck!
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Old 8th March 2008, 06:04 PM   #19
Brion55 is offline Brion55  United States
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you can prevent clamps and clamp blocks from sticking to your workpiece by using butcher paper or wax paper between. Putting paper below the glue project helps with cleanup from all the glue drips too.
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Old 8th March 2008, 06:42 PM   #20
Brion55 is offline Brion55  United States
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forgot to add:

I've bought very high quality lumber from Paxton Lumber Co. http://www.paxtonwood.com for over 20 years now. They have several outlets and will ship too. Give them a call and see what they can do for you.

If you are interested in African mahogany, I have about 600 bd ft left over from a project from about 12 years ago. It's all 8/4 rough cut, most is over 12" wide, some 16 - 20" wide.
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