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#31 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: South Florida, USA
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Way too early to flail about with other tubes. The next step is to get those DC operating points right. I doubt they are. See my post above (we might have cross-posted).
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Brian |
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#32 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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Yes, Brian is right. I meant to say, "Replace the AC coupling to the White cathode follower with DC coupling." This morning was a bit panicked.
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The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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#33 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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Quote:
I actually DID disconnect the 1M grid leak, and left the .47uF/100K RC. However I just clipped the 1M at one point and bent the lead away so I can use a spot of solder to reconnect. I'll DC couple the gainstage to the top triode in the WCF. My MM actually gives me the low-battery sign now and then, but it seems to be working other than that. |
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#34 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: South Florida, USA
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Quote:
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Brian |
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#35 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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#36 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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Not weird at all. You are now drawing a sensible current in your output stage. You are now in a position to try beefier output valves (provided you bias them correctly), and re-instate the global feedback.
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The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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#37 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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Unfortunately, these beefier output valves (I have a quad of 6CG7's in my EL34 Williamson, for example) will probably draw more than .3A of heater current. As the PSU schematic I posted earlier shows, it's a contest between heaters and B+ headroom. I'll pop those 6CG7's in but hopefully B+ won't sag too much..
In order to provide some extra voltage swing to feed some NFB, might I try dropping a 6DJ8/6N23P into the first stage? I'd do a quick bias recalculation, but the extra gain might help, right? also, what value resistor might I try for NFB? I took out the pots already because I might want less NFB than 25K would afford.. |
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#38 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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Have a look at the headwize site - there's extensive discussion and development of this circuit over there.
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The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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#39 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: South Florida, USA
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Good, you've now got sane DC operating points. If and when you try global NFB, please do something to block the DC from the output. I couldn't readily find the referred-to circuit on Headwize, but they must show some means of providing DC-blocked feedback.
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Brian |
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#40 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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Quote:
As for DC on the output, I'd expect headphones to be particularly sensitive to it and produce unnecessary distortion as a result. Zero that DC offset!
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The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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