The attached plan will take your 38r phones to rated 300mW when the power amp is run max. It should play well. It is liable to be as cheap as any low-low-price headphone amp.
You can trim the headphone level by fudging the "10r" resistor. Get a 10-pack of 10r 1W. Two parallel makes 5 Ohms and a lower level. Four series is 40 Ohms and a higher level. You can do any value that works, as long as you keep the 100 Ohm resistor at the suggested 100r.
I have specified the 100r as "10 Watts". In fact I am sure you can play really loud and it will hardly be warmed (in can run HOT without damage). I'm conservative. If you have 100r 1W in hand, use them and see how hot they get. Maybe fine forever. Likewise the 10r can be half-Watt.
> I am a beginner
I been at this a while. I may know too much for you.
Switching speakers is a LOT better than the family yelling "Turn that down!" The speech/music average current of the amp you describe is far under 1 Ampere, and you probably will not be switching when playing the lutes loud. Contact distortion is a thing, but using good "power" switches it is way-way down my list of annoyances. I like the Carling old-school toggles for such use: rated 6A, will carry high surges, high contact pressures for good contact. Several of the oriental brands are just as good. If you can find a DPDT light-switch in the Home Store, it will be huge, but reliable.
> disconnected when the headphone plug is inserted
Those jacks are hard to find for sale, and the usual ones are not rated for 100W amps. Because real speaker-currents are low, it may be fine. Personal preference or part findability.
You can trim the headphone level by fudging the "10r" resistor. Get a 10-pack of 10r 1W. Two parallel makes 5 Ohms and a lower level. Four series is 40 Ohms and a higher level. You can do any value that works, as long as you keep the 100 Ohm resistor at the suggested 100r.
I have specified the 100r as "10 Watts". In fact I am sure you can play really loud and it will hardly be warmed (in can run HOT without damage). I'm conservative. If you have 100r 1W in hand, use them and see how hot they get. Maybe fine forever. Likewise the 10r can be half-Watt.
> I am a beginner
I been at this a while. I may know too much for you.
Switching speakers is a LOT better than the family yelling "Turn that down!" The speech/music average current of the amp you describe is far under 1 Ampere, and you probably will not be switching when playing the lutes loud. Contact distortion is a thing, but using good "power" switches it is way-way down my list of annoyances. I like the Carling old-school toggles for such use: rated 6A, will carry high surges, high contact pressures for good contact. Several of the oriental brands are just as good. If you can find a DPDT light-switch in the Home Store, it will be huge, but reliable.
> disconnected when the headphone plug is inserted
Those jacks are hard to find for sale, and the usual ones are not rated for 100W amps. Because real speaker-currents are low, it may be fine. Personal preference or part findability.
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