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O2 headamp output booster PCB
O2 headamp output booster PCB
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Old 26th January 2015, 12:11 AM   #301
agdr is offline agdr  United States
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O2 headamp output booster PCB
Now that is one fully loaded O2! Looks great.

One suggestion - I would recommend twisting the black wires going to the AC plug to help keep any powerline hum out of the DC. Looks like it might be zip cable (the two wire bonded together). If so just unzip the full length of it then twist. You can probably twist it without un-mounting the jack by just rotating the rear panel a few times.

Last edited by agdr; 26th January 2015 at 12:13 AM.
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Old 26th January 2015, 05:27 AM   #302
CHiroshi is offline CHiroshi  Sweden
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Thanks agdr, that is a good suggestion. Although i don't get any audible hum.
Yeah, I was kind of lazy and used a piece of zip cable from an old acdc-adapter. It is pretty stiff, i should probably change it for something like the blue silicone wire you use. Where do you get that?
Actually, i am more concerned with the heat from the regulators, they hit about 60 degrees when i measured, so i guess it gets a bit toastier in the closed case. The cable runs between the case's side and the regulator at the edge of the board, probably making contact with it. Should i be concerned?

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Old 26th January 2015, 06:24 AM   #303
agdr is offline agdr  United States
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Changing the power wiring to something smaller and more flexible is a good idea. I'll drop some in the mail for you tomorrow, no charge. The blue stuff on the booster board is high strand count 24 AWG silicone insulated. I'm going to send you the same thing but slightly larger, the 22 AWG version, for the power wiring. The stuff is flexible as a wet noodle and the silicone insulation good for over 600 degrees F. Doesn't shrink back at all when soldered. You can run it right next to those voltage regulators with no problem.

You are OK on the regulator temperature. NwAvGuy and I went back and forth about that on PM here once back in the day. I was pointing out that I nearly burned my finger on one when running an O2 from 16Vac (more regulator voltage drop and hence power dissipation than the 12Vac transformer). He was quite adamant that the regulators are just fine at 200F (90C) based on the data sheet and since they are inside the case where they won't be touched it doesn't matter. My view was yeah, but if they are running that hot maybe that is nature's way of saying they should be heat sinked, for long term reliability's sake if nothing else. That whole thing is probably why I went a little nuts with heat sinking all the voltage regulators on my version of the ODA.

Last edited by agdr; 26th January 2015 at 06:32 AM.
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Old 27th January 2015, 12:13 AM   #304
agdr is offline agdr  United States
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CHiroshi - I put the wire in the mail today. The post office here tells me it should be air mail all the way, so hopefully shouldn't take too long.

I was off by one notch on the wire gauges. The blue stuff on the Booster Board is actually 26 AWG while what I'm sending is the 24 AWG. Both are the high strand count blue silicone insulated stuff.

Congratulations on your build!
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Old 27th January 2015, 04:59 AM   #305
CHiroshi is offline CHiroshi  Sweden
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Thanks agdr, that's really very kind! Paypal-invoice me if you want me to buy you a beer!
But where do you get this wet noodle stuff anyways?
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Old 27th January 2015, 06:49 PM   #306
agdr is offline agdr  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHiroshi View Post
Thanks agdr, that's really very kind! Paypal-invoice me if you want me to buy you a beer!
But where do you get this wet noodle stuff anyways?
The wire is on me, but I'll have a beer regardless to celebrate your build!

I bought the 26 gauge wire from flaminpyro over on Laser Point Forums here (scroll down one page). He has it in all sorts of colors. Even though the wire is just 26 gauge it has 64 strands of 44 gauge inside, making it super flexible and high ampacity for the size.

The 24 gauge I bought from an eBay vendor here. If that link goes away the eBay heading is "Super Flexible 24AWG Blue High Temp Silicone Wire RC Plane FPV Quadcopter 3' 6'"

Looks like I wasn't remembering correctly about the temperature rating. Both are rated for 200C, which is around 392F rather than 600F. Still way more than is needed for running next to the O2 regulator heat sinks though.

The temperature rating is one thing to be careful about with silicone wire. Some of it doesn't have a high temperature rating like these do. A soldering iron will shrink it back, similar to PVC. I've bought some of the low temp stuff before by mistake and wound up tossing it in the trash. Radio control model places sell the 24 AWG but the 26 AWG is really hard to find.

Last edited by agdr; 27th January 2015 at 06:59 PM.
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Old 27th January 2015, 08:34 PM   #307
CHiroshi is offline CHiroshi  Sweden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agdr View Post
...but I'll have a beer regardless to celebrate your build!
Cheers! Don't forget, you are the one who actually did the hard work soldering the surface mount stuff!..
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Old 3rd February 2015, 06:18 PM   #308
CHiroshi is offline CHiroshi  Sweden
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Agdr, thanks for the wire! I also bought a few different colors 26awg from the laser pointer forum. Might come in handy for new projects. I am thinking of tidying up my odac wiring by removing three of the battery terminals and rerouting the wires through the empty holes. It is getting crowded in there with the booster!

Forgot to mention I shorted across the 1R resistors at the outputs. I will post more pictures next time I open the case!
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Old 4th February 2015, 01:03 AM   #309
agdr is offline agdr  United States
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O2 headamp output booster PCB
CHiroshi - I'm glad the package made it through the mails! I did the same thing with the 26 AWG, I bought several different colors from him a while ago to have on hand. The 26 AWG is great stuff.

Yeah those O2 battery terminals are not needed for anything anymore. The O2 booster has a wire that solders onto one of the middle two battery terminals. If you remove them just solder the wire in the hole where one of the terminals was.

Hey good for you on shorting the 1R's! I'll bet many folks with booster boards haven't noticed that in the build instructions and/or implemented it. Those 1R output resistors on the O2 board are not needed anymore since there is just one big current buffer chip on each channel now, rather than two small ones in parallel. Might was well have nearly 0R out vs. 0.5R.
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Old 12th February 2015, 11:40 AM   #310
CHiroshi is offline CHiroshi  Sweden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agdr View Post
CHiroshi - I'm glad the package made it through the mails! I did the same thing with the 26 AWG, I bought several different colors from him a while ago to have on hand. The 26 AWG is great stuff.

Yeah those O2 battery terminals are not needed for anything anymore. The O2 booster has a wire that solders onto one of the middle two battery terminals. If you remove them just solder the wire in the hole where one of the terminals was.

Hey good for you on shorting the 1R's! I'll bet many folks with booster boards haven't noticed that in the build instructions and/or implemented it. Those 1R output resistors on the O2 board are not needed anymore since there is just one big current buffer chip on each channel now, rather than two small ones in parallel. Might was well have nearly 0R out vs. 0.5R.
Tidying things up!
1. Unsoldering the battery terminals. Note the shorts to the output resistors
2. At first I was thinking of leaving one terminal for stability. It looked kind of funny and I decided against my own advice to remove it too!
3. Nice 26 awg wet silicon noodle cable!
4. More silicon goodness! 24 awg provided by agdr for the AC power!
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