Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Headphone Systems

Headphone Systems Everything to do with Headphones

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 29th July 2013, 10:30 PM   #21
dfy is offline dfy
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
I see three options:

- remove the regulator from the board and wire as shown in the wiring diagram (I feel like I'm repeating myself If something about the wiring diagram is unclear to you, could you turn that into specific questions?)
- leave the regulator on the board, take both of your current R5s off, put a 1K Ohm resistor in the place of R5. Connect your 12V DC line to the hole to the lower right of the regulator (the one that is connected with a short diagonal trace on the bottom). Then connect the left-most pin of the regulator to GND via a 5K Ohm resistor.
- use fa-schmidt's original regulator circuit. Regulator on board, R5 = 4.2 Ohm (or R5 and R5' to give 4.2 Ohm when paralleled), 12V DC line connected to same hole described above. No R6.

You may want to wait for Avro Arrow to confirm what I wrote above. I'm fairly sure it's correct, but he's certainly more experienced than I am.

Last edited by dfy; 29th July 2013 at 10:33 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th July 2013, 12:37 AM   #22
prezden is offline prezden  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
thanks dfy- I have taken the regulator off the board and wired according to the wiring diagram. Could you kindly take a look at it and tell me if I have it right. It still doesn't work but I do get a very quiet hum through the headphones.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg yaha detail.jpg (712.7 KB, 45 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th July 2013, 12:43 AM   #23
dfy is offline dfy
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Errr... did you connect the two wires from the power supply both to the "+12V DC" holes?!? That's not what you're meant to do. Let's hope you haven't fried any parts.

You have to check your power supply first to check which of your two wires (black/red) is positive. That one goes to both "+12V DC" holes, the other one goes to one of the "GND" holes!

(The way you wired the regulator looks good. But why did you take off the heatsink?! That's gonna fry it when you leave it on for too long )

Last edited by dfy; 30th July 2013 at 01:01 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th July 2013, 02:33 AM   #24
diyAudio Member
 
Avro Arrow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Toronto, eh
In the original version, the LM317 was being used as a current regulator.
In the two schematics posted in this thread, the LM317 is being used
as a voltage regulator. Either was is fine, as long as you don't mix up the
value of R5. What is the value of the R5 resistor you have?
In the picture, the LM317 is wired wrong. LM317's are not very tolerant
of being wire up wrong.
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th July 2013, 06:06 AM   #25
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: The Jurassic Coast, England. GB
Send a message via Skype™ to JonSnell Electronic
All the regulator does is slow start the valve. Ignore it and see if your circuit works. After all, the heaters require 12.6volts to work properly.
__________________
www.flyingmole.co.uk For World Wide support for Flying Mole, Class D, Refurbishment and Repairs. www.jonsnell.co.uk
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th July 2013, 11:59 AM   #26
dfy is offline dfy
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonSnell Electronic View Post
All the regulator does is slow start the valve. Ignore it and see if your circuit works. After all, the heaters require 12.6volts to work properly.
All the ECC88 data sheets I can find say that the heater voltage is supposed to be 6.3V.
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th July 2013, 12:20 PM   #27
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: The Jurassic Coast, England. GB
Send a message via Skype™ to JonSnell Electronic
The ECC83 has dual heaters at 6.3v each. the first one is between pin 4 and pin 9 then the other pin 5 and pin 9. Hence my explanation but the diagramme of the Ecc88 valve that I have is not clear; ECC88 @ The National Valve Museum
It looks to me like pin 9 is the centre of two 6v heaters. A resistance reading will confirm this.
I have never heard of 3v heaters, ( two 3v in series?). I apologies if I am wrong.
__________________
www.flyingmole.co.uk For World Wide support for Flying Mole, Class D, Refurbishment and Repairs. www.jonsnell.co.uk
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th July 2013, 01:44 PM   #28
dfy is offline dfy
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Avro Arrow View Post
...
In the picture, the LM317 is wired wrong...
Are you talking about OP's latest picture? Apart from the missing connection from Vout to the heater, the regulator wiring seems okay to me? (picture attached).

Quote:
Originally Posted by JonSnell Electronic View Post
It looks to me like pin 9 is the centre of two 6v heaters. A resistance reading will confirm this.
I have never heard of 3v heaters, ( two 3v in series?). I apologies if I am wrong.
I have attached a part of the ECC88 Amperex data sheet. It would seem to me that the heater supply is internally paralleled (so they are two 6.3V heaters in parallel rather than two 3V heaters in series), and that Pin 9 is the internal shield, not a center tap of the heater. From there I would conclude that the voltage across the two heater pins is supposed to be 6.3V
Attached Images
File Type: jpg yaha detail.jpg (290.8 KB, 32 views)
File Type: jpg ecc88amperex.jpg (90.1 KB, 30 views)

Last edited by dfy; 30th July 2013 at 01:58 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th July 2013, 04:34 PM   #29
prezden is offline prezden  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Hi dfy- could you please explain exactly where the connection from V out on the rectifier goes.

Thanks again for every ones help.
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th July 2013, 05:44 PM   #30
dfy is offline dfy
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Because you mounted the 1K resistor "in the air", you are missing the connection from Vout to the PCB hole marked with green arrows in the picture below. (That hole connects to the heater via a PCB trace on the bottom of the board.)
Attached Images
File Type: png wiringdiag2.png (3.6 KB, 27 views)
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
YAHA with output buffer: need help TB Headphone Systems 3 25th August 2010 04:17 PM
hummming YAHA frajavcar Tubes / Valves 0 1st July 2008 05:58 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 11:00 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2