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Old 27th July 2013, 02:44 AM   #11
prezden is offline prezden  Canada
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whoops- I meant dc
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Old 27th July 2013, 05:33 AM   #12
gootee is offline gootee  United States
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Looks like omitting the wire jumpers is your main problem, or at least a major problem. You can see the one that's straight out from pin 7 of the op amp, in the photo in the PDF, but not in your photo. And I assume that all of the other red lines in the diagram in the PDF are also supposed to be wire jumpers.
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Old 29th July 2013, 06:52 PM   #13
prezden is offline prezden  Canada
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Thanks to everybody for your help. I have added the R5 and all the jumper wires shown in the pdf. Unfortunately it still does not work at all.
Any suggestions would be very welcome.
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Old 29th July 2013, 07:03 PM   #14
dfy is offline dfy
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You still don't have R5/R6 right. It seems that the PCB you have is meant for the original regulator configuration as designed by fa-schmidt, which uses a single 4.2 Ohm resistor in the position marked R5 on your board and NO R6. The reason there are two slots (R5 and R5') on your PCB is most likely that you can parallel resistors to get close to 4.2 Ohm or distribute heat dissipation between two resistors.

If you want to build the amp as described in your PDF (with a voltage regulator with R5/R6 as in the 'mod' schematic), follow the wiring diagram! I have copied it for convenience. In there, "NC" means "not connected", the regulator is not mounted on the board, and R5 only has one leg in the PCB. Also be careful with your wire jumper on the bottom of the board, that one looks suspiciously like it's not isolated and touches another tube pin!!
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Last edited by dfy; 29th July 2013 at 07:06 PM.
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Old 29th July 2013, 08:05 PM   #15
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As it is, the regulator is still not fully connected.
Pin 3 is not connected to anything.
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Old 29th July 2013, 08:50 PM   #16
prezden is offline prezden  Canada
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Thanks guys
So the correct R5 is the second one down so the top one should come off.
The jumper from pin 3 on the bottom is lifted up quite high off the board so there is no contact there.
I will try again without the second R5.

cheers- preston
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Old 29th July 2013, 08:59 PM   #17
dfy is offline dfy
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I think there's still a misunderstading:

- Avro Arrow is talking about Pin 3 on the LM 317, which is still disconnected and so doesn't provide anything to the heater.
- I'm saying that if you want to go with the "mod", you have to follow the wiring diagram. Simply removing the second R5 in your current configuration won't help, even if you fix the problem mentioned by Avro Arrow.
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Old 29th July 2013, 09:47 PM   #18
prezden is offline prezden  Canada
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I didn't want to go with the mod- was trying to build it as per the board layout. Maybe I should try the modified version.
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Old 29th July 2013, 10:02 PM   #19
dfy is offline dfy
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You could try either, but don't try to mix them! It's not really your fault, the PDF you have is not consistent between its schematics, diagrams and pictures. I think the easiest option from where you are now is to follow the wiring diagram (i.e. the picture that I attached to my previous post #14).
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Old 29th July 2013, 10:10 PM   #20
prezden is offline prezden  Canada
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Thanks dfy- with board the way it is now where would I connect pin 3 on the rectifier? Or does it have to come off the board? Sorry to have to ask so many questions. I'm use to building kits where I can simply follow the instructions.
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