Replace Blackbox m10 3-prong jack

Dpad · 12:49 AM

Hi all
I'm new to the forums and DIY electronics.

I've been given a set of Phitek BlackBox m10 noise-cancelling headphones once used in business or first class in an airplane.

It has a three-prong headphone jack which I am trying to replace with a 3.5 stereo TRS jack.

Apologies for the rough photo.

I believe the three prongs are a single TS and a pair of TRS jacks.

The wires are blue, red, yellow, green, black and white, along with some loose fibre I think is insulation.

I have no idea which cables are which, or how to attach the new jack.

Any ideas?

I have a soldering station and wire cutters to tinker with it.

Thanks guys, greatly appreciate any help

Earfanatic · 27th December 2012, 06:05 PM

I think the help you are looking for is here.
Someone already did it. Has some pics too.

Dpad · 29th December 2012, 01:03 PM

Thanks!
Well I asked one of the forum users there about his advice on using a USB to power the headphones since I am a noob to this game. But I'm keen and have plenty of patience

id love any further advice on this

Thanks!

dheming · 30th December 2012, 10:57 AM

So do you need the noise cancelling part working as well or are you fine with just converting them to be regular headphones? I assume they will still work without power and that it's only for the NC aspect.

So connecting the L and R drivers to the new TRS connector is relatively straight forward. The 3 pin connector end you cut off will tell you which wire does what using a multimeter: strip all the wires a bit, test and write down the pinout of that 3 pin deal, ie which color wire is connected to which pin. Then we can move forward from there.

Dpad · 3rd January 2013, 06:44 AM

Thanks guys, ill get the multimeter and report back
I would ideally love to have the noise cancelling part working

dheming · 4th January 2013, 02:58 AM

I'm not sure of the range of voltage they will accept and still work. Looks like people have made similar headphones work on anything from 3 to 9VDC. So you should be able to power them using the 5VDC from a USB port. To use the NC function on the go you would have to build a battery box of some type.

Dpad · 24th January 2013, 04:33 AM

Thanks guys, been busy, though I promise I'll finish it.

http://image.bayimg.com/233c8958b919...b26a474c29.jpg

I had a stab at softly prying it open along the seam [red square]. It kept snapping back, and an edge seemed to be held down tightly, leading me to think I'd snap things if I tried to open it.

Though there must be a way and the seam looks like the obvious point. Should I just force it?

The other screw sections I opened [blue square] weren't helpful.

Cheers guys

Don Hills · 24th January 2013, 08:37 AM

I have the M14s. They're held together with screws under the earpads. You need to peel off the earpads, they're held on with double-sided tape. The M10s might be the same.

Dpad · 2nd February 2013, 04:32 AM

got it open

inside both look the same
Welcome to Flickr!
But removing the outside cover yields this on one side
Welcome to Flickr!
And this on the opposite
Welcome to Flickr!
I bought this mulitimetre but have no bloody idea how to work it or what wires to test
Welcome to Flickr!
Im a total n00b at this, can anyone give me some simple steps?
Thanks!

26th December 2012, 11:23 PM	#1
Dpad diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2012	Replace Blackbox m10 3-prong jack Hi all I'm new to the forums and DIY electronics. I've been given a set of Phitek BlackBox m10 noise-cancelling headphones once used in business or first class in an airplane. It has a three-prong headphone jack which I am trying to replace with a 3.5 stereo TRS jack. Apologies for the rough photo. I believe the three prongs are a single TS and a pair of TRS jacks. The wires are blue, red, yellow, green, black and white, along with some loose fibre I think is insulation. I have no idea which cables are which, or how to attach the new jack. Any ideas? I have a soldering station and wire cutters to tinker with it. Thanks guys, greatly appreciate any help Last edited by Dpad; 30th December 2012 at 12:49 AM.

27th December 2012, 06:05 PM	#2
Earfanatic 8th note diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Hungary	I think the help you are looking for is here. Someone already did it. Has some pics too. __________________ See my stuff: www.8thnote.eu BLOG: www.blog.8thnote.eu

29th December 2012, 01:03 PM	#3
Dpad diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2012	Re Thanks! Well I asked one of the forum users there about his advice on using a USB to power the headphones since I am a noob to this game. But I'm keen and have plenty of patience id love any further advice on this Thanks!

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30th December 2012, 10:57 AM	#4
dheming diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Bay Area, CA	So do you need the noise cancelling part working as well or are you fine with just converting them to be regular headphones? I assume they will still work without power and that it's only for the NC aspect. So connecting the L and R drivers to the new TRS connector is relatively straight forward. The 3 pin connector end you cut off will tell you which wire does what using a multimeter: strip all the wires a bit, test and write down the pinout of that 3 pin deal, ie which color wire is connected to which pin. Then we can move forward from there.

3rd January 2013, 06:44 AM	#5
Dpad diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2012	Thanks guys, ill get the multimeter and report back I would ideally love to have the noise cancelling part working

4th January 2013, 02:58 AM	#6
dheming diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Bay Area, CA	I'm not sure of the range of voltage they will accept and still work. Looks like people have made similar headphones work on anything from 3 to 9VDC. So you should be able to power them using the 5VDC from a USB port. To use the NC function on the go you would have to build a battery box of some type.

24th January 2013, 04:33 AM	#7
Dpad diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2012	Thanks guys, been busy, though I promise I'll finish it. http://image.bayimg.com/233c8958b919...b26a474c29.jpg I had a stab at softly prying it open along the seam [red square]. It kept snapping back, and an edge seemed to be held down tightly, leading me to think I'd snap things if I tried to open it. Though there must be a way and the seam looks like the obvious point. Should I just force it? The other screw sections I opened [blue square] weren't helpful. Cheers guys

24th January 2013, 08:37 AM	#8
Don Hills diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Wellington	I have the M14s. They're held together with screws under the earpads. You need to peel off the earpads, they're held on with double-sided tape. The M10s might be the same.

2nd February 2013, 04:32 AM	#9
Dpad diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2012	got it open inside both look the same Welcome to Flickr! But removing the outside cover yields this on one side Welcome to Flickr! And this on the opposite Welcome to Flickr! I bought this mulitimetre but have no bloody idea how to work it or what wires to test Welcome to Flickr! Im a total n00b at this, can anyone give me some simple steps? Thanks!

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