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zdr 5th December 2012 10:10 AM

Grado GS1000 died
After a multiple issues with these great sounding headphones that I was able to fix myself, I finally ended up with dead transducer, and Grado is asking 200 eur to repair it. I find this quite ridiculous, as I don't intend to put this kind of money into such a low build quality headphones which are going to break down again for sure. They also refuse to provide spares, so I am stuck with one very expensive, single-channel, extremely low-build-quality headphone.

I took transducer apart and it failed where I expected - where wires enter the membrane. If I could only find a way to resolder them again, I think I would be able to get them running again.

The problem is, wires are enameled and very thin, so I could not think of a way to approach them without making a total mess.

Any ideas how to go about this?

ticiajosep 5th December 2012 07:59 PM


I have exactly the same problem with my Grado SR80i.
Perhaps impossible to repair.

The thin cables in the input of the transducers (under a patch of glue) were burning and the impedance rise (80 ohm in one channel !!!!, the other died), this causes intermittent crashes until it finally stops working.

Meldrew 5th December 2012 09:07 PM

Conductive glue?

ticiajosep 5th December 2012 09:44 PM


Originally Posted by Meldrew (
Conductive glue?

I think that the glue only fix the cables. And makes thermal insulator in this point, it is precisely where the wire heats up more.

A design error ?

Meldrew 5th December 2012 10:24 PM

I can only think you guys must have some DC offset from whatever device you are powering the phones with, causing this overheating.
But for Grado not providing spares - that really sucks.

RudeWolf 25th December 2012 06:34 PM

Excessive heating is a sure sign of DC offset, that is unless you drive your phones to deafening levels that could heat the coils up by musical current.

And enameled voicecoil wiring is really messy to solder right. I have done it once on my HD25-II phones and there was more luck than finesse involved. Ideally one would need to get rid of the enameling in a non thermal way. And also whilst soldering you must be wary of heat conduction to the membrane...

All in all- I'd advise against it. Even if you somehow manage to pull it off you will still wonder if that crack and pop came from the recording or your semi-sloppy soldering.

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