I figure that many people want to try DIY, but really get excitable around transformers, capacitors and other potentially hurtful stuff. So, perhaps they can find a used linear supply like I found and can get started with an enclosure kit.
I just put together a little linear PSU enclosure box for use with a newly purchased CmoyBB from jdslabs.
The power supply is a 12v 200ma linear regulated DC encapsulated power module from Acopian. It basically has 5 labeled screws that makes hooking it up a breeze. But there are 3 considerations:
1 - There is no fuse in the PSU, it is up to the builder to implement a fuse in power delivery. For my 12eb20, acopian suggests a .2a 250v fuse.
2 - No on/off switch. not really important, but I like having a switch to turn the thing off.
3 - No real-world connector - It just has a set of screw terminals labeled AC. I don't personally like having exposed AC wires chilling out.
Here's what I picked up:
First, a Fused IEC power entry plug with power switch.
880-01/004 Qualtek | Q491-ND | DigiKey - $19.66 - Qualtek Q491-ND
This was chosen because of the simplicity of install. Others had the IEC plug with fuse holder, but the power switch wasn't connected so I would have to wire all that crap up. This one-stop-shop includes everything with a simple 3-prong output and an EMI filter for loads under 1amp. Is the EMI filter important? Meh, I dunno but it looks cool. (does YOUR psu have an EMI filter? well MINE does!)
Second, a fuse - Following the documentation from acopian, I should use a .2amp 250v fuse. A pack of 4 fuses can be had at radioshack for about $4.
Third, cables for internal connections to and from power supply module - I tore apart a basic computer power cable to get some 16ga wire to carry AC to the supply. Next, I cut up a spare netgear wall-wart to get a 5.5mm power plug that fits to JDS's 3.5mm adapter ($4 from jds). Additionally, radioshack had a little kit of short heatshrink tubes and some crimped terminal ends that fit snugly under the screws of the supply, another 7 dollars or so with leftovers.
Fourth, enclosure - radioshack has a number of cheap plastic project enclosures, I took the parts with me and found a 6x4x2 box that holds everything like a glove. $6 and a no-brainer.
Additionally, I had some short self-tapping screws to hold the power plug in place and some soft grommets to use as a method of holding the DC power cable in place without possibility of pulling the wire off the power module or out of the enclosure.
(sorry if these images don't work, first post and all)
I just put together a little linear PSU enclosure box for use with a newly purchased CmoyBB from jdslabs.
The power supply is a 12v 200ma linear regulated DC encapsulated power module from Acopian. It basically has 5 labeled screws that makes hooking it up a breeze. But there are 3 considerations:
1 - There is no fuse in the PSU, it is up to the builder to implement a fuse in power delivery. For my 12eb20, acopian suggests a .2a 250v fuse.
2 - No on/off switch. not really important, but I like having a switch to turn the thing off.
3 - No real-world connector - It just has a set of screw terminals labeled AC. I don't personally like having exposed AC wires chilling out.
Here's what I picked up:
First, a Fused IEC power entry plug with power switch.
880-01/004 Qualtek | Q491-ND | DigiKey - $19.66 - Qualtek Q491-ND
This was chosen because of the simplicity of install. Others had the IEC plug with fuse holder, but the power switch wasn't connected so I would have to wire all that crap up. This one-stop-shop includes everything with a simple 3-prong output and an EMI filter for loads under 1amp. Is the EMI filter important? Meh, I dunno but it looks cool. (does YOUR psu have an EMI filter? well MINE does!)
Second, a fuse - Following the documentation from acopian, I should use a .2amp 250v fuse. A pack of 4 fuses can be had at radioshack for about $4.
Third, cables for internal connections to and from power supply module - I tore apart a basic computer power cable to get some 16ga wire to carry AC to the supply. Next, I cut up a spare netgear wall-wart to get a 5.5mm power plug that fits to JDS's 3.5mm adapter ($4 from jds). Additionally, radioshack had a little kit of short heatshrink tubes and some crimped terminal ends that fit snugly under the screws of the supply, another 7 dollars or so with leftovers.
Fourth, enclosure - radioshack has a number of cheap plastic project enclosures, I took the parts with me and found a 6x4x2 box that holds everything like a glove. $6 and a no-brainer.
Additionally, I had some short self-tapping screws to hold the power plug in place and some soft grommets to use as a method of holding the DC power cable in place without possibility of pulling the wire off the power module or out of the enclosure.
(sorry if these images don't work, first post and all)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Figured...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
annihilalorg Please resize images to a reasonable size before posting. as a rule no bigger than 1024 X 768.
so you spent like $130+ all up on a power supply for a cmoy and thus close to $200 for the whole thing with shipping? the bb cmoy kit plus this you could have gotten a fully assembled 'the wire' from opc. its possible to knock up a linear supply more than good enough for a cmoy for about 25-30 bucks including the transformer without being any more exposed to AC than your solution here. the voltages most will actually be dealing with in proximity when doing this sort of build should be at the most 20-24v (+/-12v); you still have to hook up the primary, but you dont need to do any of that live.
and yes, please re-size the massive cellphone pics, just because your mobile says it can take 10Meg pics, doesnt mean you should, the 'glass' in the lenses and the CCDs in many of these things, mean you end up with huge low quality pics that actually look worse than if you just took the photo at 640 x 480
I think its cool that you are stepping out like this, perhaps out of your comfort zone? but there are far cheaper ways to do this just as safely. power should get the respect it deserves no matter what its coming from
and yes, please re-size the massive cellphone pics, just because your mobile says it can take 10Meg pics, doesnt mean you should, the 'glass' in the lenses and the CCDs in many of these things, mean you end up with huge low quality pics that actually look worse than if you just took the photo at 640 x 480
I think its cool that you are stepping out like this, perhaps out of your comfort zone? but there are far cheaper ways to do this just as safely. power should get the respect it deserves no matter what its coming from
Sorry, I would have changed them earlier, and thank you!
Actually, it was $25 on ebay. That's why i was saying 'used'. These supplies are available pretty often at around the same price.
the psu was probably $70 including shipping and all the little bits to build it, and I did say that it can be done cheaper (specifically on the incoming power module). I had a Saturday afternoon free and just decided to get it done. I had the cmoy bare-wired before.
I don't see The Wire working from a battery if you want to take it with you somewhere. I'm not about to take the cmoy jogging (crappy JVC ear clips and a 4gb sansa do well enough), but it's nice to have when reading outside or wherever you happen to be. Also, i previously had the acopian module for use with a different amp (rolls ha43pro) so it was basically just sitting around.
I'm well aware on the crappy-ness of the cell phone pics. I thought I had upped my resized ones. Somehow I missed the preview-post button on the submit otherwise I would have noticed and changed them.
Most PSUs (Specificaly headphone ones) that I've seen explained here missed enclosures and I'm not sure they've incorporated fuses and cable management. Not saying I've done an exhaustive search of the forums, but I saw lots of bare boards and schematics.
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