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Old 26th January 2012, 12:33 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Netdewt View Post
I'll post take some tonight which I'm working on the amp section. I hope my work isn't horrendous! The voltage all checked out and I don't see any bridges. I did put some jumpers is slightly the wrong spot and I'm trying to decide whether to work with it or try and get them out (the "S" or "M" jumpers on the sides, I'd angle everything if I leave them).
The only time solder work is horrendous is when it is a cold solder joint. Otherwise, it can only get better with experience. Finish this one and then decide if you need to make a second one to clean up the mistakes. This will give you two CMoy amps... maybe three if you are lucky.
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Old 26th January 2012, 01:45 AM   #22
Netdewt is offline Netdewt  United States
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It looks messier in the pic than I thought it looked in person. The Wimas are going to be a little tough to get in the right spot because the leads are so short. Maybe I ordered the wrong version.
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File Type: jpg cmoy1.jpg (251.2 KB, 154 views)
File Type: jpg cmoy2.jpg (227.8 KB, 152 views)
File Type: jpg cmoy3.jpg (224.5 KB, 153 views)
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Old 26th January 2012, 03:43 AM   #23
ddietz is offline ddietz  United States
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Looks better than my first CMOY did.

I later learned that those Radioshack boards are hard to work with on the single holes because the pads are so small and easy to overheat. The dual strips in the middle is nice in some ways though.

Anyway, I'd run the Wima input caps parallel to the ground traces up by the power supply caps and use a resistor lead to connect the cap the the appropriate pin of the chip. That is a common method for making connections on perfboard. Fine solid copper wire works well also. Good technique is to solder on the components, then connect them using leads of the right length layed next to the two connections and use the iron melt the solder and push your connector piece in, applying a little more solder as necessary. I will also sometimes bend component leads over to accomplish the same thing if I can think far enough ahead.

Keep up the good work.
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Old 26th January 2012, 02:42 PM   #24
Netdewt is offline Netdewt  United States
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I'm getting too far ahead of myself but I just got my Skeleton DAC boards. It will take some courage to solder this DAC chip. I bought a couple boards for this reason though.

What amp should I think about making next? Maybe a Millet or something? I have my eye on some Fostex T50RP, and I read they need good solid amping.
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Old 26th January 2012, 03:14 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Netdewt View Post
It looks messier in the pic than I thought it looked in person. The Wimas are going to be a little tough to get in the right spot because the leads are so short. Maybe I ordered the wrong version.
Looks better than some soldering jobs I have done on Light Sabres and remote controls. Like ddietz says, use copper wire to bridge the connections, I know I have liberally done that in the past.

Important thing is how it sounds, plus who knows how many times you will desolder and resolder it when you decide to change things around or reuse parts in new projects (seen some of the prices of real good capacitors? Makes sense when one costs need to be kept in line).
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Old 26th January 2012, 05:28 PM   #26
Netdewt is offline Netdewt  United States
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Amp section almost done. I can't get the picture to attach. Will try later.
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Old 26th January 2012, 07:55 PM   #27
Netdewt is offline Netdewt  United States
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I still need to attach leads from the amp to the power, but the board is just about done. I managed to attach the picture now.
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Last edited by Netdewt; 26th January 2012 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 27th January 2012, 04:15 AM   #28
Netdewt is offline Netdewt  United States
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Wow, lead attaching was hard. But... it works!

I was nervous at first because it wasn't working. Then I realized I hadn't put the opamp in yet. LOL.
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Old 27th January 2012, 11:47 AM   #29
Netdewt is offline Netdewt  United States
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The hook-up wiring is a nasty mess. It will be nice to get this in an enclosure.

One question I have. What volume is ideal for digital sources? Turning my old CD player up to 10 and controlling the volume 100% with the amp was not good. The sound was badly broken up. Also the opposite, turning the CD player down to 2 was no good since I could hear some hiss from the amp up at top volume. So, I landed on about 7 for the CD player. That put listening level on the amp @ about 11 o'clock on the pot. Is that normal? Should the pot be able to crank up more?
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Old 27th January 2012, 01:10 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Netdewt View Post
The hook-up wiring is a nasty mess. It will be nice to get this in an enclosure.

One question I have. What volume is ideal for digital sources? Turning my old CD player up to 10 and controlling the volume 100% with the amp was not good. The sound was badly broken up. Also the opposite, turning the CD player down to 2 was no good since I could hear some hiss from the amp up at top volume. So, I landed on about 7 for the CD player. That put listening level on the amp @ about 11 o'clock on the pot. Is that normal? Should the pot be able to crank up more?
That is a lot of wire...

Your portable CD player output might be louder than what is "normal" (from listening to CD players, MiniDisc players, and iPod/MP# devices, I don't think that there is a set standard). Also, it might not be the cleanest signal depending on what circuitry they are running the music through.

Anyway, take the line out of a regular full size CD player that you would plug into an amp and hook it up with the RCA cables to the CMoy. From there, you can compare to your CD player. It might be more "standard" than a portable player.

Or lastly, get an iPod/iPhone and a line out from the bottom docking port into your CMoy.
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