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Old 17th January 2012, 06:04 AM   #11
Netdewt is offline Netdewt  United States
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Thanks for the tips.

Mouser has it for $2.80:
RK0971221Z05 ALPS Potentiometers
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Old 18th January 2012, 12:20 AM   #12
Netdewt is offline Netdewt  United States
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Ordered the stuff!
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Old 18th January 2012, 12:24 AM   #13
ddietz is offline ddietz  United States
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0.1uf input cap gives you a -3dB corner frequency at ~15Hz and the roll-off begins at around 100Hz, however slight. I originally tried the CMOY with a .1uF, later switching to 1uf and noticed an improvement in low-end response and a better sound.

Formula for -3dB corner is 1/(2*3.14159*R*C) where R is 100K to ground and C is the series input capacitor.

You want a good quality polypropolyene or polyester cap for this. I suspect the Orange Drops are perfectly fine for this, but have no experience with them.

Ordering more later is fine, but its easy to bugger something up, no matter how easy this seems. Shipping is expensive. Its easy to mislay or drop a resistor then loose it forever Since all passive components of this build, with the exception of the op amp, cost pennies, I suggest ordering more. I promise you will find a use for them later

Good luck and keep us updated!
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Old 18th January 2012, 12:42 AM   #14
Netdewt is offline Netdewt  United States
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I got 1uf 5mm polyester Wimas.

If I screw up I'll cry... then I'll just go get parts locally and not worry about getting the best stuff. I just don't want to spend money on stuff I don't need. I try really hard not to be a pack rat. If I need to order more from mouser I'll start another project too. I spent $16 + ship.

What's the best way to mount the board in the case? I'm going to make a finger jointed wood box. I just ordered a Dado for my circular saw also, so I can do that.
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Old 18th January 2012, 02:02 AM   #15
ddietz is offline ddietz  United States
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Mounting can be done lots of ways. My first CMOY I simply used a couple dabs of hot glue to hold the board in place. Later versions used an etched pcb that I mounted the volume pot, in and out plugs, and DC power barrel connector right to. Those hold the pcb in place just fine. You could also use computer motherboard standoffs threaded into the case. Even wood, unless real soft like pine, could be taped for threads, then screw the standoffs in with some epoxy. If you don't want to buy a tap, make your own by filing three tapered grooves into the end of a bolt having the same thread as the standoffs. I've don this a lot (as a professional furniture maker), and it works well. You can also buy small threaded inserts at a decent local hardware store (Ace, TrueValue, Rocky's, etc not HD or Lowe's). Those work great also.


Have fun building!
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Old 18th January 2012, 02:18 AM   #16
Netdewt is offline Netdewt  United States
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Thanks.

I am dreaming of the DIY projects a furniture maker makes... that's an incredible skill. I work with computers all day. When I get home I just want to make something real.
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Old 22nd January 2012, 04:27 AM   #17
Netdewt is offline Netdewt  United States
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Got my parts.
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Old 25th January 2012, 02:49 PM   #18
Netdewt is offline Netdewt  United States
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Power section and LED assembled.
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Old 25th January 2012, 11:42 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Netdewt View Post
Power section and LED assembled.
Pictures?
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Old 26th January 2012, 12:06 AM   #20
Netdewt is offline Netdewt  United States
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I'll post take some tonight which I'm working on the amp section. I hope my work isn't horrendous! The voltage all checked out and I don't see any bridges. I did put some jumpers is slightly the wrong spot and I'm trying to decide whether to work with it or try and get them out (the "S" or "M" jumpers on the sides, I'd angle everything if I leave them).
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