I am in the unfortunate position of having my hearing deteriorate to the point that I have trouble understanding dialogue while watching movies. I guess I was somewhat of an audiophile with a moderately high end system that I use for audio for dvds as well as for music. For my wife's sake I've decided to start using headphones for listening to movies, but I can't figure out what I need to hook them up. I have two preamps, a Pass solid state and an Audible Illusions tube (currently using the Pass) feeding a Muse 160. I think I'll try some Grado phones, since I have other Grado products that I like (tonearm and phono cartridge). I'm thinking of the SR-60 or SR-80 phones with a 15 ft cable extension. After trying to research this, I guess I'll need a head amp. If so, is it possible I could use my Audible Illusions as a head amp? If not, I guess I'll try to build a DIY head amp, but I'm retired and on a somewhat limited budget. At the same time, I hate junk.
So, what do I have to do to connect headphones to this system, and is there any way I can use the speakers (for my wife) and headphones simultaneously?
So, what do I have to do to connect headphones to this system, and is there any way I can use the speakers (for my wife) and headphones simultaneously?
Are you going to be near your wife while using the headphones? Grado's leak more than any other headphone I've ever heard... ever. It's almost as if it's louder for the people near the listener than for the listener themselves. If that's not acceptable, the Beyerdynamic DT 235 is a great inexpensive closed-headphone option that sounds remarkably good and is lightweight and not flashy at all.
You're going to have to take two signals off your mains, one going to your speaker amp and another going to your headphone buffer. Doesn't the Modulus (I'm assuming your AI is a Modulus) have two simultaneous main outputs (other than "tape")?
Anyway, a Cmoy buffer with good current delivery is seen here: NwAvGuy: Cmoy eBay Headphone Amp
You'll need a seperate volume control for the headphones because it's VERY UNLIKELY that you will have a good volume match on the speakers and the headphones.
However, wouldn't it be easier to take the signal from your AI to your TV and use the headphone out from that while the other feed from the AI goes to the speaker amp? I'm assuming your TV has a headphone port. It may not. Anyway, if you don't have two main outputs from the AI you'll have to buy some y-cables. They're cheap and splitting the signal isn't really detrimental to your setup.
You're going to have to take two signals off your mains, one going to your speaker amp and another going to your headphone buffer. Doesn't the Modulus (I'm assuming your AI is a Modulus) have two simultaneous main outputs (other than "tape")?
Anyway, a Cmoy buffer with good current delivery is seen here: NwAvGuy: Cmoy eBay Headphone Amp
You'll need a seperate volume control for the headphones because it's VERY UNLIKELY that you will have a good volume match on the speakers and the headphones.
However, wouldn't it be easier to take the signal from your AI to your TV and use the headphone out from that while the other feed from the AI goes to the speaker amp? I'm assuming your TV has a headphone port. It may not. Anyway, if you don't have two main outputs from the AI you'll have to buy some y-cables. They're cheap and splitting the signal isn't really detrimental to your setup.
Splitting the audio out should definitely be possible. The headphone amp is then best placed near the listening position so as to be able to reach its volume control. Long RCA cables of decent quality aren't that expensive. Cable routing is another story, some creativity may be needed here.
I assume a headphone amp shouldn't be that much past a hundred bucks? If so, a FiiO E9 is a decent mains-operated unit. A semi-assembled O2 amp (see the respective thread) with a matching mains transformer is another option.
Especially when hearing loss is involved, auditioning headphones is a must. The assumption that brighter cans like Grados are better suited may well prove to be dead wrong, in fact mellower-sounding cans may be easier on the ears.
Obviously the real fix would be a hearing aid, though I suppose this is not an option here.
I assume a headphone amp shouldn't be that much past a hundred bucks? If so, a FiiO E9 is a decent mains-operated unit. A semi-assembled O2 amp (see the respective thread) with a matching mains transformer is another option.
Especially when hearing loss is involved, auditioning headphones is a must. The assumption that brighter cans like Grados are better suited may well prove to be dead wrong, in fact mellower-sounding cans may be easier on the ears.
Obviously the real fix would be a hearing aid, though I suppose this is not an option here.
I listen to music far more than I watch movies, and my TV doesn't have a headphone port anyway. My AI Modulus and Pass Alief preamps both have two main outputs. I got an RCA to headphone adapter and connected it to the second pair of outputs on the Pass. I was amazed to find that I did have a good volume match between the speakers and the headphones with no buffer amp, but I had to turn the volume control way up. I only listened a short time like this because I was unsure if this hookup was safe. Unacceptable impedence matches or something. I also realized I really need an output selector switch (A, B, or A+B) like old (and maybe new) receivers have.
So, is it safe to operate like this? And if so, can I buy or build an outboard selector box that won't degrade the music? Thanks for your help. You can tell I need it.
Have a look here...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...mpaired-setup-new-television.html#post2417665
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...aired-setup-new-television-2.html#post2419559
The simple tuned circuit is intended to connect in series with headphones. It makes a huge difference to the speech "intelligabilty".
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...mpaired-setup-new-television.html#post2417665
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...aired-setup-new-television-2.html#post2419559
The simple tuned circuit is intended to connect in series with headphones. It makes a huge difference to the speech "intelligabilty".
That is exactly what my Audible Illusions does for input selection, and what I'll do. Can you recommend switches? Thanks again.
I'm losing the plot with this 
Do you want to switch line level signals into the various amps and headphone amp, or, are you after switching speaker level signals to either/or speakers and 'phones ?
It probably isn't easy finding "nice" push buttons that are highly rated and toggles and rockers are a bit clunky and agricultural.
Many small pushbuttons are signal only and wouldn't survive switching speaker loads and currents. Fine for headphone feeds though. One way around that is to use the tiny switches to control relays but that means adding a power supply.
A DPDT covers most possiblities as it allows two channels (stereo) to be switched one of two way. DPST is just on/off.
Do you want to switch line level signals into the various amps and headphone amp, or, are you after switching speaker level signals to either/or speakers and 'phones ?
It probably isn't easy finding "nice" push buttons that are highly rated and toggles and rockers are a bit clunky and agricultural.
Many small pushbuttons are signal only and wouldn't survive switching speaker loads and currents. Fine for headphone feeds though. One way around that is to use the tiny switches to control relays but that means adding a power supply.
A DPDT covers most possiblities as it allows two channels (stereo) to be switched one of two way. DPST is just on/off.
Sorry. In post 7 I responded to ethanolson "Can I build or buy a switch box that will connect to an output of my preamp and allow me to select amp (speakers), headphones, or both (A, B, A+B)?" He responded "The easy and cheap way is to wire up a bus box with two pushbutton switches for A and B which decide if they're on or not. Both in means both are on."
I would be switching the output from my preamp.
I would be switching the output from my preamp.
For preamp levels you want something like these. These should be universally available and tend to conform to a standard pin out,
Switches | Farnell United Kingdom | Results
Perhaps something like this from the above range,
ALPS|SPUJ190900|SWITCH, 2POLE, LATCHING | Farnell United Kingdom
the data sheet gives all the connection details.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Just to complicate things...
in pursuit of best sound quality (and because switches in signal paths aren't always ideal long term... they have a tendency to go noisy over the years) I wonder whether this might be possible.
To feed the preamp to main amp via a low value resistor (value depends on drive ability of preamp) and use one switch to short the signal to ground rather than pass it through. That leaves the audio clean for normal listening. When you want just phones the switch mutes the main amp not by interuppting the signal but by shorting it out. Any preamp worth it's money will drive 600 ohms and Nelsons probably a whole lot lower than that. The tube one...hmmm
Minimal signal degradation, it passes only through a fixed resistor.
You could do the same for the h/phone feed too but use a higher value resistor so that impact on being shorted is minimal.
Just a thought...
Switches | Farnell United Kingdom | Results
Perhaps something like this from the above range,
ALPS|SPUJ190900|SWITCH, 2POLE, LATCHING | Farnell United Kingdom
the data sheet gives all the connection details.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Just to complicate things...
in pursuit of best sound quality (and because switches in signal paths aren't always ideal long term... they have a tendency to go noisy over the years) I wonder whether this might be possible.
To feed the preamp to main amp via a low value resistor (value depends on drive ability of preamp) and use one switch to short the signal to ground rather than pass it through. That leaves the audio clean for normal listening. When you want just phones the switch mutes the main amp not by interuppting the signal but by shorting it out. Any preamp worth it's money will drive 600 ohms and Nelsons probably a whole lot lower than that. The tube one...hmmm
Minimal signal degradation, it passes only through a fixed resistor.
You could do the same for the h/phone feed too but use a higher value resistor so that impact on being shorted is minimal.
Just a thought...
I just swapped out preamps and the tube AI doesn't like the headphones, so it's back to the Pass. It's gain is adjustable using a 6 position dip switch, and can be 0 dB, 6 dB (default), 12 dB, or 17 dB. I assume since a means to increase the gain is incorporated in the preamp, that there is no harm in doing so?
Would it be possible to send send me a sketch of the circuit you're describing? It sounds simple, and I can build things from schematics, but have a limited understanding of how circuits work.
When I just want the speakers, which is much of the time, can't I just unplug the headphones?
I really appreciate your help.
Would it be possible to send send me a sketch of the circuit you're describing? It sounds simple, and I can build things from schematics, but have a limited understanding of how circuits work.
When I just want the speakers, which is much of the time, can't I just unplug the headphones?
I really appreciate your help.
I'd do it real simple like this until someone else comes along to shed some more light on the matter.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Ethanolson, that will work with the Pass, but not the Modulus. The Modulus won't, or will barely, drive the headphones. They are 32 ohm. I guess I really need to get a headphone amp. Then it would work with either the Pass or Modulus? The only reason I'd like to use the Modulus is for the phono amp. With the Pass I have to use a discsaver phono amp, which works but is kind of cheesy. If I built or bought an O2 head amp I guess I could use either preamp and everything might work better.
Thanks for the schematic, but I understood your solution, and that's what I may do. I was asking Mooly for a schematic for what he was suggesting, which also sounds good, but as I said, I'm not sure how to build it.
Thanks for the schematic, but I understood your solution, and that's what I may do. I was asking Mooly for a schematic for what he was suggesting, which also sounds good, but as I said, I'm not sure how to build it.
Well... if your Modulus isn't really driving the headphones well, then an amp is in order for that setup. As you suspect, the amp will work with the Pass as well. Until you get an amp (and they don't have to be expensive), I guess you'll be using the Pass, possibly wiring up a switch box to it.
Like this. One channel shown. R1 would be as low as is practical. I would say 600 ohm or lower. R2 is similar but see below. The output from either amp is silenced by the switch shorting the signal to ground rather than passing it through. This means the switch is out of circuit for listening.
R2... A h/phone amp probably has a highish input impedance and so it would make sense to make R2 a little higher. This is because for main listening the h/phone amp feed would be shorted and so making it say around 4K7 means it presents a light loading on the preamp.
I'm assuming that when the situation is reversed and h/phones are needed on there own that the "heavier" 600 ohm load will have no real impact. FOt the main amp we are thinking in audiophile terms to preserve the best possible feed to the main amp.
R2... A h/phone amp probably has a highish input impedance and so it would make sense to make R2 a little higher. This is because for main listening the h/phone amp feed would be shorted and so making it say around 4K7 means it presents a light loading on the preamp.
I'm assuming that when the situation is reversed and h/phones are needed on there own that the "heavier" 600 ohm load will have no real impact. FOt the main amp we are thinking in audiophile terms to preserve the best possible feed to the main amp.
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