I was reading about this amp and decided my soldering skills and paying attention to details are on par with attempting something like this. I also saved over half of having it professionally built and I always wanted to try something like this out since I got a soldering iron and stuff. I bought clippers, multimeter, etc and am waiting on the parts. I got the custom board, enclosures, and parts ready in the mail coming soon. I had a few quick questions though about testing it and how to apply the solder. With the custom board, it has a picture of how the bottom leads attach to eachother. Do I just use jumper pins to do that on the custom board, etc? Also how do I test it so I don't ruin my headphones the first time I plug them in. I think I can tell where each part goes in the pictures I am showing in this post but I just didn't know how to test it all out so I don't ruin my headphones. I know both + and - need to be equal. Can I use the AC power adapter that I am going to get to plug in and test it or can I use a regular 9V battery that isn't rechargeable. I know they said to only use rechargeables. I don't plan on using this with batteries at all because it's for my desktop. I chose for the portable version though because I like the case and don't need the extra 2 jacks for red/white audio. Are there any other things I need to know before doing this? I've been reading the site where the tin can mini3 was built to learn how to solder the parts on the board and a site from NwsAVguy for different things to look out for like MOSFET,etc. But like I said this is my first project, but I think I can do it. I still don't understand the ground/positive leads chart and all of that, I am going to just try my hand at soldering the points on the board. Please help all you can!
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&...NGJlNC00ODlmLWIwM2MtNDI4ZWU4YWRjY2Y4&hl=en_US
o2%2520final%2520pcb%2520large%255B5%255D.jpg (image)
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&...NGJlNC00ODlmLWIwM2MtNDI4ZWU4YWRjY2Y4&hl=en_US
o2%2520final%2520pcb%2520large%255B5%255D.jpg (image)
there is already multiple threads on this amp that will answer all of your questions, any particular reason you felt you had to start yet another one? you will be much more likely to get help there and if you use the search function, you probably wont even need to ask, because they are all basic questions that will be covered in the manual on his site.
I am also planning 2 build 1 lately. I still have no idea where 2 get all the parts though...cause i am in singapore. I guess its more effective for me 2 ask in local forum..lol..
good luck with urs...
Like: "r u mad, bro?"
Looking at the schematic, resistors R1 & R2 bypass the diodes D2 & D6 and limit the recharge current to the batteries to a reasonable level.
Regarding your OP, you ought to use a sacrificial pair of headphones when testing. IOW, something like those $1.50 types commonly offered.
You can use regular 9V batteries in the O2 for test and play, but do not leave them connected if the AC adapter is also used.
With soldering, it's important to know the difference between a good joint and a bad one. Then set about making good ones. Redo the ones that are bad. My position is that unless a person has some mental or physical handicap, it well within anyone's capabilities. Even with a <$10 iron.
I'll note also... the front leg of the S2 gain switch can short to the nearby via (beside R21). I used small wire cutters (not flush cutters!) and it was easily removed, no problem. Also, take care soldering the J2 input jack - the pin closest to the edge needs to be trimmed short and minimal solder used. These things are in the official docs but bear repeating.
Regarding your OP, you ought to use a sacrificial pair of headphones when testing. IOW, something like those $1.50 types commonly offered.
You can use regular 9V batteries in the O2 for test and play, but do not leave them connected if the AC adapter is also used.
With soldering, it's important to know the difference between a good joint and a bad one. Then set about making good ones. Redo the ones that are bad. My position is that unless a person has some mental or physical handicap, it well within anyone's capabilities. Even with a <$10 iron.
I'll note also... the front leg of the S2 gain switch can short to the nearby via (beside R21). I used small wire cutters (not flush cutters!) and it was easily removed, no problem. Also, take care soldering the J2 input jack - the pin closest to the edge needs to be trimmed short and minimal solder used. These things are in the official docs but bear repeating.
At least some of those things have been discussed here in the forum's main O2 thread. I think they have all been incorporated into the O2 Details page. Look for the Construction Tips section near the top, where NwAvGuy has several bullets addressing various issues.
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