Hi, asuming JDS Labs are using the same PCB reference design as everyone else it will be a tight fit, the resistors measure 6.1 mm whilst the hole space is roughly 6.8 - 7 mm. They would fit in vertically though.
Stefan
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Oh wow! I really like the look of those! Tough decision deciding on which one to pick.
I'm not sure how responsive AE will be to your inquiry. They already include a "disclaimer" with all of their unregulated power supplies. FWIW, I have a similar 16.5VAC 40VA wall wart handy. It's output measures 18.1 volts on my Fluke 79II. I had been using it for a battery charger, in a half-wave configuration with a 6800uF filter capacitor. There, it measured 19-and-change VDC. So I'm reasonably confident the ACTX-1620 will work for the O2. The regs will have to dissipate the extra power, but you'll have to push the limits for things to get really hot.
Your thoughts echo mine and I considered calling for that reason. It's not quite as easy to dismiss people over the phone. I may wind up ordering it regardless, since I see a couple additions to their catalog that I "need" (as usual). In which case I'll measure it myself and report back.
Can't say I won't be annoyed if it's pumping out 22VAC or something without load, though.
Edit: Did you see those silicone mats in the rubber feet/bumpers section? Those would make some nice heat resistant non-slip/stick surfaces. This happens every time I look through their website.
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Hey, nice pictures of the custom cases and the bamboo front panels, too. It's very interesting how this O2 revolution is taking on different directions from an aesthetics standpoint. Lots of great custom work going on out there.
On another note, I realize there are some limitations in this thread from a support stand-point, but possibly, I could just word things in a venting sort of way.
3 months or so back, I bought an O2 pre-assembled from an individual who was building the amps and supplying the Triad power supplies and the good rechargeable batteries, too. I'm now having troubles. First, it was my Triad supply that died a bit over a month ago. So, I found a replacement AC power supply. Now, I'm realizing other issues happening, which is likely related to the issue that may have killed off my first Triad supply in the first place. I noticed my aluminum case was quite warm and my headphones were distorting a bit at times. Believe me, this was sadness for me - because I liked the amp so much. Additionally, I experienced some "sparking" issues when my metal iPod would come in contact with the case.
So, I did some investigating and took the board out of the case. I realized that the PCB was not grounded with a grounding wire to the case (based on advisement from a member on another board). I also realized that the source of the excess heat seemed to be two regulators. Smelling them, revealed some excess heat had been applied to them causing potential break-down. I quick view at the bottom of the PCB also revealed some darkening of the 6 solder tabs where the two regulators were soldered. Finally, additional research located 4 resistors (behind the input jack) which had their metal ends poorly trimmed after the solder work. However, those 4 ends would -- and could apparently come in contact with my aluminum housing from time-to-time causing who knows what kind of issues.
I realize this is a great amp, the prices on them are excellent. I can easily have a new board built and a new power supply shipped my way for a bit over $90.00 and I'd just use the existing case. However, on the other hand, I think I should contact the builder / seller of this amp due to the issues I've experienced and explain the issues. Some compensation towards resolving this issue or even supplying me with a new completed board and power supply would seem logical. Then again, I guess that might just be me who wants to ensure that people who purchase items from me are content, happy and would easily buy from me in the future, too.
On another note, I realize there are some limitations in this thread from a support stand-point, but possibly, I could just word things in a venting sort of way.
3 months or so back, I bought an O2 pre-assembled from an individual who was building the amps and supplying the Triad power supplies and the good rechargeable batteries, too. I'm now having troubles. First, it was my Triad supply that died a bit over a month ago. So, I found a replacement AC power supply. Now, I'm realizing other issues happening, which is likely related to the issue that may have killed off my first Triad supply in the first place. I noticed my aluminum case was quite warm and my headphones were distorting a bit at times. Believe me, this was sadness for me - because I liked the amp so much. Additionally, I experienced some "sparking" issues when my metal iPod would come in contact with the case.
So, I did some investigating and took the board out of the case. I realized that the PCB was not grounded with a grounding wire to the case (based on advisement from a member on another board). I also realized that the source of the excess heat seemed to be two regulators. Smelling them, revealed some excess heat had been applied to them causing potential break-down. I quick view at the bottom of the PCB also revealed some darkening of the 6 solder tabs where the two regulators were soldered. Finally, additional research located 4 resistors (behind the input jack) which had their metal ends poorly trimmed after the solder work. However, those 4 ends would -- and could apparently come in contact with my aluminum housing from time-to-time causing who knows what kind of issues.
I realize this is a great amp, the prices on them are excellent. I can easily have a new board built and a new power supply shipped my way for a bit over $90.00 and I'd just use the existing case. However, on the other hand, I think I should contact the builder / seller of this amp due to the issues I've experienced and explain the issues. Some compensation towards resolving this issue or even supplying me with a new completed board and power supply would seem logical. Then again, I guess that might just be me who wants to ensure that people who purchase items from me are content, happy and would easily buy from me in the future, too.
T2T, you need to stop using that amp, especially with any headphones you care about, if you haven't already. Too much DC on the amp's output can cause audible distortion and, more importantly, kill headphones.
Darkening of the PCB indicates excessive heat, like you guessed. This could be from poor soldering and/or excessively high running temperatures at the regulators. Something is causing the regulators to dissipate too much energy.
Grounding the input jack is more of a 'best practices' thing that solves a noise issue - it's not a matter of reliability. Getting arcs from the enclosure to the iPod would be an unrelated problem. Power is shorting to the case somewhere. The obvious suspect would be a leg of the power jack.
Definitely contact the seller and see what he's willing to offer. You could also post some macro shots of the top and bottom of your board here. That'll help the experts here spot obvious flaws.
Darkening of the PCB indicates excessive heat, like you guessed. This could be from poor soldering and/or excessively high running temperatures at the regulators. Something is causing the regulators to dissipate too much energy.
Grounding the input jack is more of a 'best practices' thing that solves a noise issue - it's not a matter of reliability. Getting arcs from the enclosure to the iPod would be an unrelated problem. Power is shorting to the case somewhere. The obvious suspect would be a leg of the power jack.
Definitely contact the seller and see what he's willing to offer. You could also post some macro shots of the top and bottom of your board here. That'll help the experts here spot obvious flaws.
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Use a flashlight to have a good look at the PCB inside the enclosure. There is the documented issue of the outer pin of the DC jack making inadvertent contact with the side of the case, and regulators that aren't seated properly which may cause the tab to contact the case. And of course component leads clipped excessively long.
Yes. Thank you. I've stopped using it and have started to use the new O2 that I received today from JDS Labs. So far, I'm loving the O2 again. But, I still need to get the issue with O2 #1 resolved.
Yes. And, thank you to you, too. That was one of the other items I noticed the other evening. One of the regulators had not been seated appropriately -- yet, soldered in place. To get around the issue, the builder just took a tool and folded about a 3/8" pieced of the top metal tab in half. I'm assuming this is some sort of mini heat-sink or heat dissipation device.
Considering I wasn't sure how to approach this issue with the builder, I did order a pair of regulators and the resistors that mount on the outer edges of the regulators in the event I'm stuck with holding the bag on the repairs. I have those components in hand, but will contact the builder to get this resolved. Meanwhile, I have the new O2, my C&C BK amp and my vintage Sansui. I should be OK for a week or so until this other issue gets resolved.
Thanks,
Good grief. I didn't want to speculate about this builder's abilities, but no one has any business accepting money for work like that. A return for full refund would be the fair solution to your problem. Whether or not that's going to happen is another thing, unfortunately. If the builder won't stand behind their work, it will be possible to repair it, so long as the PCB isn't too badly damaged.
JDS seem to be conscientious about their work, so you should be sittin' pretty there. Given what you told us about O2 #1, I'm impressed that it worked as well as it did. I gotta give you credit patience, man. I'd be fit to be tied if I were you.
Your assumption is correct - the tabs help dissipate heat. They're also meant to have heatsinks attached, when necessary. There isn't room in the O2 for additional heatsinks, which is okay. With a properly built O2 being used as intended, no heatsinks are needed.
Good luck.
Thanks all! Actually, this is going to work out OK in the end. I sent the seller / builder an e-mail listing the additional items noted with the 4 resistor wires touching the case and the tab on the regulator --- as well as the regulator "floating" about 3/8" above the board. I'm going to send the amp back and get a full refund. I did inform the person when the wall wart died about a month ago, but didn't make a big deal about it and purchased a new one, and went on about my business. But, with these latest items coming into the picture, a proper resolution was needed. Fortunately, I kept the malfunctioning Triad to return with the amp.
Thanks again! JDS Labs has taken care of me. I'm a happy listener once again. Though, for convenience, I think I'll opt for a 2nd O2 with the funds and I won't have to carry the single one up and down the steps as well as to work at times.
Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy.
Certainly, one could have created some sort of "stove-pipe" device to mount to the top of the case and allow the heatsinks to properly protrude for proper cooling.
I guess one could have even fashioned a small glass dome to mount on top of the O2's case after boring a hole for regulator heat sink to protrude. It would give the O2 amp the appearance of a hybrid headphone amplifier with the top class piece appearing as a tube.
Ah, I was under the impression no one had found any that would fit in the standard B2-080 enclosure. I'm curious to hear what you were using and how the hardware interfered. You can avoid hardware altogether if you use a thermal adhesive like Arctic Silver or Alumina epoxy. Good stuff for a permanent bond, but spendy.
I have some various sizes of RAM sinks around here that could be trimmed down if necessary, but I'd have to clean the TIM pads off and... probably not worth the trouble.
You've got some pretty country around San Antonio, by the way. I used to hunt on a place near Fredericksburg.