"The Wire" Ultra-High Performance Headphone Amplifier - PCB's - Page 155 - diyAudio
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Old 14th June 2012, 02:18 PM   #1541
qusp is offline qusp  Australia
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nvm self edit, thanks wintermute!

Last edited by qusp; 14th June 2012 at 02:25 PM.
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Old 14th June 2012, 02:28 PM   #1542
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I've removed the diodes on one and pulled off a couple of capacitors on the other PSU board. I'm not upto troubleshooting smd circuits.

I'm still willing to ship and/or drop off 'the wire' to get it working. If you'd like to help, PM me and we can negotiate a deal.
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Old 24th June 2012, 06:20 AM   #1543
Mull3t is offline Mull3t  United States
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Before I go and do something stupid and solder it in backwards, what is pin one for U9/11? I'm used to a circle to designate pin 1.

TIA
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Old 24th June 2012, 06:27 AM   #1544
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Guessing from the part numbers vs the schematic for each amp version that you're building SE-SE and referring to the opamps? not the BAL-SE or BAL-BAL.

In that case, check out the LME49990 datasheet...
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Old 24th June 2012, 06:44 AM   #1545
Mull3t is offline Mull3t  United States
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I have the SE-SE version. I'm referring to the board layout for the opamps. Pin 1 is easily identifiable on the chip itself. There is a notch on the board layout. I'm guessing that this is referring to what direction pin 1 will be in, but I just want to be sure.
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Old 24th June 2012, 12:54 PM   #1546
IanAS is offline IanAS  England
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Yes that notch at one end of the drawing is a normal indicator of the pin one end of the chip.
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Old 24th June 2012, 01:14 PM   #1547
jdkJake is offline jdkJake  United States
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The notch indicates the "top" of the chip in terms of orientation. The pin directly to the left of the notch is pin one.
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Old 10th July 2012, 06:45 AM   #1548
Mull3t is offline Mull3t  United States
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Back again... So I've pretty much soldered everything on both the rework version of the "The Wire" and a bi-polar power supply I got from glassware as per the recommendation of jdkJake...

PS-12 Bipolar Low-Voltage PS

I'm going to use a 50k RK27. Then I need to buy a few more parts like isolated RCAs, a fuse holder, IEC socket, volume knob, and a custom chassis.

I have a few questions before I embark on this part of the process. Besides tying the IEC jack to the chassis for safety ground, would I need something like a ground loop breaker with this amp tied to safety ground as well? I plan on having my RCA jacks isolated so I'm hoping it's not a problem.

I'm also planning on using Belden 8451 cable that I can get from work. Any reason not to use this stuff? It works fine for general audio cable so I figure it'd work fine here.

For my power switch I have a MTS-2 toggle switch that has 3 points on each side for a total of 6. Any reason I can't use this as a power switch?

Finally, I'm not sure if I should wire this up for star ground. Is this method even possible for this amp? Otherwise, if I don't my signal ground is floating, right? I know, I should read the audio grounding article to understand this further.

TIA
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Old 10th July 2012, 07:05 AM   #1549
Mull3t is offline Mull3t  United States
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One more question... where to get 1/4" stand-offs... and do people usually drill holes on the bottom of their chassis to secure stand-offs/pcbs?
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Old 10th July 2012, 06:41 PM   #1550
nattawa is offline nattawa  Canada
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@Mull3t, I say you get the The Wire PSU kit and bolt it with the SE-SE as I did shown in pages 17 and 19 of the build thread. That saves you 4 holes on the chassis bottom and conceals the wiring between the PCBs that can otherwise be turning off to view, if it fits in your chassis. The bolt pattern for that combo is 22.5mm x 96.0mm.
THE WIRE conglomerate build thread, impressions and gallery

Ground loop breaker is against the safety rules unless it's done right. Usually a pair of backward parallel connected diodes are connected across the ground breaker switch to go compliant with the safety code.

I hooked up the RCA ground pins directly to the IEC socket ground pin with heavy gauge wires, and I always use interconnect cables that have heavy gauge ground conductor or those can be constructed to have a heavy gauge ground conductor in between audio gears, Mogami 3173 for example, in order to minimize the voltage drop over the ground conductors by the ground loop current if any. In my The Wire headphone amp the PSU/SE-SE combo has a single ground connection to the RCA ground pins through the shield conductor of the audio signal connections.

The SE-SE has an input impedance of 11k I'd use a 2K or maximum 5k type A taper pot to get a relatively even volume change across the dial range. With a 50k pot, though I've never tried myself, you'll probably get little volume change when you turn it up until you are approaching the maximum end of the travel.

One reason I can think of not using a DPDT power switch is that you wasted a pair of contacts and you have to cover these un-used pair of pins up with insulation to comply with safety code.

Standoffs....check ebay. I got mine there sometimes when a good deal pops out.

Last edited by nattawa; 10th July 2012 at 06:44 PM.
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