"The Wire" Ultra-High Performance Headphone Amplifier - PCB's - Page 152 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Headphone Systems

Headphone Systems Everything to do with Headphones

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 7th May 2012, 05:56 PM   #1511
vitop is offline vitop  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
It seems I found this site a little too late. I am not in the same league with some of you guys, but was looking for a high quality Headphone amp that i could build with my son. I believe these are all gone?
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th May 2012, 06:15 PM   #1512
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: North West, UK
Blog Entries: 7
Hi Vitop, yes all of the The Wire pcb's etc sold out a few months ago, including the leftovers...

I belive the Objective 2 would make for a good project for the two of you, it performs exceedingly well, is cheap and the build is very well documented.

I've got my O2 on holiday with me, but I do miss my Wire se-se...

Regards,
Paul.
__________________
Listening with Gusto!
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th May 2012, 06:47 PM   #1513
vitop is offline vitop  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
well, let me see if I can find some info on that one? Is there a big drop off?
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th May 2012, 08:21 PM   #1514
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: North West, UK
Blog Entries: 7
In terms of perceived audio quality?! No, not a big difference between the two. With good source material and headphones I can tell the difference, but it isn't of the proverbial night and day kind.
__________________
Listening with Gusto!
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th June 2012, 05:46 AM   #1515
Mull3t is offline Mull3t  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Gamehendge
I'm about to embark on my journey with "The Wire". I was lucky enough to acquire a rework board from a fellow diyAudio member and I'm at the point where I'm sourcing parts. I'm looking at this part as a replacement for C21, C26, C27, and C32...

810-CGA5L1X7R1E106K

...at Mouser.

The only difference that I can see is it's recommended for automotive applications. I'd assume this just means that the part can stand up to more abuse. Can I use this part instead of the general mlcc part in the BOM?

TIA!
Mull3t
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th June 2012, 01:36 PM   #1516
qusp is offline qusp  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
qusp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Brisbane, Australia
why? is it cheaper? I doubt it, auto grade parts are usually more expensive. this one from Kemet is fine 581-12063C106KAT2A (mouser part #) or this for a bit less than the part you linked. but for whatever reason I tend to go with murata when I can so I would pay a little bit more for this one unless I was getting heaps.
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th June 2012, 03:11 PM   #1517
IanAS is offline IanAS  England
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: London
Is there a sound quality difference between these 10uF multi layer X7R caps?

The 35V one may have a use for people making a Bal-Bal not on a board as I may or may not one day do. The current path with this type of circuit is from one plate of the cap through an LME49600 +ve power pin, out through the headphone, back in through the other LME49600 and out of it's -ve power pin, and back to THE OTHER PLATE OF THE SAME CAP. Not to earth in the middle or anywhere.

So by having one cap span the two LME chips power + pin and - pin (and another cap for the other LME's two -/+ power pins) you miss out from each current path two end plates, two solder joints and the via or bit of copper track and that might have an effect on the sound quality.

Also on The Wire Bal-Bal board the two 10uF's for each current path are in series so are effectively 5uF at double the voltage rating.

Last edited by IanAS; 7th June 2012 at 03:22 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th June 2012, 09:51 PM   #1518
Mull3t is offline Mull3t  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Gamehendge
I think the 35v Taiyo Yuden will suffice at 64 cents a pop. I think they're the cheapest too.
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th June 2012, 04:55 AM   #1519
qusp is offline qusp  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
qusp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Quote:
Originally Posted by IanAS View Post
Is there a sound quality difference between these 10uF multi layer X7R caps?

The 35V one may have a use for people making a Bal-Bal not on a board as I may or may not one day do. The current path with this type of circuit is from one plate of the cap through an LME49600 +ve power pin, out through the headphone, back in through the other LME49600 and out of it's -ve power pin, and back to THE OTHER PLATE OF THE SAME CAP. Not to earth in the middle or anywhere.

So by having one cap span the two LME chips power + pin and - pin (and another cap for the other LME's two -/+ power pins) you miss out from each current path two end plates, two solder joints and the via or bit of copper track and that might have an effect on the sound quality.

Also on The Wire Bal-Bal board the two 10uF's for each current path are in series so are effectively 5uF at double the voltage rating.
youre making my brain hurt =) seems a talent hehe

since this amp is very much a voltage source, i'm not sure how much impact the current path will have, over and above the voltage modulation. with the V1 Bal-se, I have played with using 0.47uf pps film caps bypassing polymer tantalum here, as well as just the film caps when mounted directly above my PSU, but for the bal bal so far i'm just using the stock build except for the lack of input resistors and only zfoil for FB/gain
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th June 2012, 09:46 AM   #1520
IanAS is offline IanAS  England
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: London
It's not voltage but current that makes the voice coil in the headphone move back and forth according to Flemings rules for motors and generators.

The applied difference in potential across the load (aka the voltage) is merely a means of making some current flow. The current interacts with the fixed magnets causing a resultant mechanical deflection in a specific direction.

So the signal path is in reality the current path from one capacitor plate all the way to the other.

What an amplifier is doing is servo'ing a power supply across a load.

Depending on the size of the reservoir and the size of the loads current demand, the amplifier could be servo'ing the mains supply across the load.

In a dual rail single ended supplied system the path is earth referenced to the centre tap or earth star between the two capacitors, which discharge one at a time. But with balanced a more elegant solution is that the one capacitor discharges from both plates and the same time.

A disadvantage is that twice the voltage capacitor is required so for a high power class AB amplifier that's something a of a problem as they tend to stop at 100V. And for the The Wire Bal-Bal is a problem as the clean and fast sounding polymer caps have very small values above 16 volts and we need at least 30V.

I'm also still using all the stock values and parts on my Bal-Bal except I did tack on some Black Gates across the Nichicon polymers and they did what the always do which is give a big powerful slamming rocket bass that is a bit muddled and grainy. I did it because with the HD800's there was a very disappointing lack of bass with The Wire in place so I thought I give it a go to see what happened. Took about three minutes to fit them in situ at the back of the PC under the table, so if it had no effect I was not wasting much time.

My Bal-Bal is supplied by the 400 Watt SMPS the Seasonic X400 but through the motherboard, so that's probably not ideal. I had various ideas regarding feeding it direct using the wires that normally go to the Molex or SATA power feeds and traced some of the mobo to sound card connections in the PCI but there are a few and I have to reverse engineer it more extensively that I have so far.

I've not tried tacking on the Vishays yet. The sound card needs a different output stage first I think.

Last edited by IanAS; 8th June 2012 at 10:14 AM.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Which Pass Aleph diy board for "no-cost-object" headphone amplifier? Hammerklavier Headphone Systems 43 7th August 2010 03:35 PM
Improvments to "Tube Headphone Amplifier/Preamp with Relay-Based Input and Power Swi" kipman725 Headphone Systems 4 17th August 2009 06:12 PM
Project 11.1 from Slone "High-Power Amplifier" Book Karl71 Solid State 46 6th October 2008 03:47 AM
The "Freebird" ultra clean ultra simple preamp design Russ White Chip Amps 87 11th August 2008 09:28 AM
My A.N.T. "Amber" headphone amplifier x-pro Headphone Systems 8 1st October 2007 08:47 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 09:41 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2