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Old 10th December 2011, 12:43 AM   #1041
IanAS is offline IanAS  England
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And....

TeddyPardo SuperTeddyReg

"The best regulator I've built so far" - by Teddy Pardo

I've not read past page three of the thread yet but it kind of looks like it might not do for areas where current is supplied in 'gulps' as the voltage might droop. So maybe for the OPA1632D but not the LME49600??

Last edited by IanAS; 10th December 2011 at 12:50 AM.
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Old 10th December 2011, 12:51 AM   #1042
Wolfsin is offline Wolfsin  United States
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Thanks for the pointer, agdr.
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Old 10th December 2011, 02:10 AM   #1043
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SO do we just wait for a message before payment? I can pay any time, but I dont wanna mess anything up
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Old 10th December 2011, 02:35 AM   #1044
opc is offline opc  Canada
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I use the following two solders exclusively:

1. Cardas Quad Eutectic 0.032 - Cardas Solder
2. Nexxtech Standard Rosin Core 0.032

I really like that exact thickness, and both of the above have quite a bit of flux core which makes them flow well. I don't believe in any way that the Cardas stuff sounds any better, but it is by far the best solder I've ever used in terms of wetting and cleaning. I finished off my 1lb roll doing the first three boards for this run of The Wire, and now I'm faced with the unpleasant task of buying another $85 roll. It's also a reminder that I probably solder a little too much.

The best advice I can give for the surface mount stuff is this:

1. Don't use thin diameter solder - it doesn't have enough flux in the core to flow properly and make a nice joint
2. Don't use fine point tips - they have very low thermal mass, and take far too long to get the joint up to temp.
3. Have some good quality pre-fluxed solder wick on hand to deal with the inevitable solder bridges.

The worst thing people do is immediately go out and buy fine point tips and ultra-thin solder because they mistakenly think that the small parts will require them. In reality, it's almost impossible to solder with that combination of tip and solder, and you're bound to fail. Instead, you ideally want a 2-2.5mm chisel tip and a good flux core 0.032" solder.

I've actually used much larger tips, and they're quite versatile because they allow you to solder the larger TO-263 parts without changing tips. I've attached a picture below to give you an idea of the tip I used to solder all of the boards pictured in this thread. It's a massive 3.5mm tip, but it has a huge thermal mass and makes soldering the 0805 and SOIC packages a breeze.

Cheers,
Owen
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File Type: jpg Iron Tip.JPG (369.1 KB, 493 views)
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Old 10th December 2011, 02:51 AM   #1045
opc is offline opc  Canada
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If you want to see a very tacky video I made back when the first version of "The Wire" was being built, you can check it out here:

MVI_5833.AVI - YouTube

It has had a whopping 81 views since it went up about a year ago, so there are clearly better videos out there to show you how to solder!

Cheers,
Owen
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Old 10th December 2011, 04:03 AM   #1046
qusp is offline qusp  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opc View Post
If you want to see a very tacky video I made back when the first version of "The Wire" was being built, you can check it out here:

MVI_5833.AVI - YouTube

It has had a whopping 81 views since it went up about a year ago, so there are clearly better videos out there to show you how to solder!

Cheers,
Owen
NIIICE lighting =P i'm using my Jedi forces, but i'm going to have to assume that was a good joint hehe. It covers all the right points though, so still worth watching for those who are just learning SMD. i will say though, that those just learning soldering the second side of the diode without holding it will actually be a good test of whether the iron is too hot or not, because smd diodes are probably the quickest to heat through and melt the other side, except for some low value resistors. perfectly fine if, as Owen said the iron is the right temp.

Nice to see you use cardas quad too despite the health risks; i just keep a well ventilated work area. ive tried so many others in an attempt to find an equal composition but smaller gauge for the occasional joint and the closest ive found is kester for that and Wonder leaded solder for the same size. I never did find one as good though, so i just bought another 1lb roll. i use a touch of cardas rosin flux paste too on stubborn joints. nothing to do with it being silver solder, its just GOOD solder

wolfsin: i'm thinking thats whats currently known as the minigold super regulator and it uses reasonable size power transistors for the pass transistor, so although still a bit borderline for this amp and low impedance headphones, it should be ok. i would recommend any other type pf super reg though, not enough current unless as myself and Ian have said you make the mod to supply the front end and output stage separately. really though if you are going to do that, it would be better to try and focus on the buffers as they have much lower PSRR

Last edited by qusp; 10th December 2011 at 04:09 AM.
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Old 10th December 2011, 05:58 AM   #1047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qusp View Post
wolfsin: i'm thinking thats whats currently known as the minigold super regulator and it uses reasonable size power transistors for the pass transistor, so although still a bit borderline for this amp and low impedance headphones, it should be ok. i would recommend any other type pf super reg though, not enough current unless as myself and Ian have said you make the mod to supply the front end and output stage separately. really though if you are going to do that, it would be better to try and focus on the buffers as they have much lower PSRR
I think opc is working on a wiki post to clarify some of these requirements and I'm sure there is some posts about this earlier in the thread but I had a dig earlier in the week but haven't tracked down anything yet. So for those who've built these already, whats an indication of what is 'enough' current?
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Old 10th December 2011, 06:18 AM   #1048
qusp is offline qusp  Australia
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nope, regular super regulators are usually lucky to supply 100ma and most less, which isnt enough under any circumstance. the input opamps wont be using much as they are driving the buffer's input only and the buffers will depend on the headphone load, so unless opc is adding a load impedance vs supply current graph you'll still have to do some maths of your own. even then, headphones often present a different load depending on the frequency of the signal.
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Old 10th December 2011, 08:22 AM   #1049
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IanAS View Post
And....

TeddyPardo SuperTeddyReg

"The best regulator I've built so far" - by Teddy Pardo

I've not read past page three of the thread yet but it kind of looks like it might not do for areas where current is supplied in 'gulps' as the voltage might droop. So maybe for the OPA1632D but not the LME49600??
Notice that the TeddyReg is more like a buffered voltage reference. You have no feedback from the output but this isn't a problem if you accept voltage drops (not a constant output voltage).
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Old 10th December 2011, 11:42 AM   #1050
IanAS is offline IanAS  England
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Maybe that slightly shifting rail just reduces the audio signals dynamic transient a tiny bit? No other adverse effects? Maybe that results in a slightly softer sound that might suit some Hi-Fi systems? Maybe sufficient capacitance would reduce or remove that slight transient droop? As Owen stated earlier, the caps would be supplying the higher frequency transient energy.

This ones claims suggest it's pretty impressive at holding the voltage steady, but rather expensive (here in the UK anyway).

http://www.belleson.com/compareoptima.php

http://www.belleson.com/comparesuperted.php

Last edited by IanAS; 10th December 2011 at 12:11 PM.
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