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#241 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Quote:
3 microns Mylar should be fine. Wachara C. |
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#242 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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Hi All,
Very interesting thread this one I haven't read the full thread but noticed phil47's posts earlier in the thread where there was a photo of copper wire stators. In case some of you have considered building phones like these and would like to use e.g. copper wires, and have a challenge straightening the wires, I used to straight out the wires by stretchening them. I.e I firmly tied one of the ends to a fixed point (like a radiator) and then pulled the wire - with force - until I noticed that it got longer. In the same round the wire straightened out (completely). Doing this while the wire is lying on a table should give a straight wire that may be cut for stators. Maybe useful? Greetings & Happy New Year Jesper |
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#243 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Maine, USA
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Thanks for sharing your wire straightening approach, Jesper. Have you noticed any trouble with the insulation after the wire is stretched---or perhaps you're using uninsulated wire?
Few |
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#244 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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I only used uninsulated wire but my guess would be that if it is a lacquer insulation then it may crack. I would guess that other types of insulation (plastics) would stretch and more or less stay in place.
The elongation of the wire (1,5 mm thickness and 2 meter length) is ~ 0,8 cm so maybe this gives you an idea of what will happen with the insulation. Best, Jesper |
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#245 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
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Straightening wire can be done with an electric screwdriver, just stick one end of the wire in a hole of wire diameter in your workbench, bend it 90 degrees, stick the other end in your screwdriver, pull gently as you operate the screwdriver clockwise for a few seconds.
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#246 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Hi JonasKarud,
Thanks for sharing your technique on making wire stators. I'm sure it will benefit a lot of people here. Since I have a CNC machine, I feel that it's much easier to make stators using PCBs. I will try to drill PCBs to imitate wire stators and see if I will find any difference in sounding. Wachara C. |
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#247 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: South Sweden
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#248 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Hi Matt,
If you still read this thread, please update your progress. Wachara C. |
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#249 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
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Hi guys,
I'm working with the pva glue / water / ink coating on 1.4 micron mylar, but am having a hard time distributing an even layer. I find that as it dries, it puddles unevenly on the film and picks up dust. Perhaps hitting it with a hairdryer would help? I'm considering reverting back to powdered graphite, since it's easier to touch up if uneven, resistant to moisture, and as light as can be. |
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#250 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Hi Pelikan,
Graphite powder works fine as long as you can rub it into the diaphragm hard enough. As for me, I prefer using the PVA, water and ink. I experienced what you mention before. If you clean your diaphragm using alcohol before applying the glue, it should help. Good luck. Can you show us your headphones? Wachara C. |
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