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Old 14th September 2009, 09:04 PM   #191
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Location: Wisconsin....what did you expect?
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This stuff looks like it wold work even better than the drilled PCBs - the holes are roughly the same size, but spaced closer together and the material is thinner.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#9255t431/=3mr8oc
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Old 14th September 2009, 11:01 PM   #192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spasticteapot View Post
This stuff looks like it wold work even better than the drilled PCBs - the holes are roughly the same size, but spaced closer together and the material is thinner.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#9255t431/=3mr8oc
Hi Spasticteapot,

I'm sure that there are many other materials that are okay to be used for making headphones. However, what you need to be careful most is the electrical insulation. The reason why I choose to use a PCB as the material is that I do not need to insulate the fiberglass side. Since this is the side that will come into contact with my ears, I want to make sure that no electrical charge can ever make it's way to here.

Wachara C.
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Old 15th September 2009, 01:58 AM   #193
Few is offline Few  United States
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Quote:
This stuff looks like it wold work even better than the drilled PCBs - the holes are roughly the same size, but spaced closer together and the material is thinner.
One more consideration: Bear in mind that while "thinner" has some advantages, you must also take into account the difficulty associated with keeping the stator truly flat. Some materials are very ease to dent, kink, or bend, and very hard to straighten out again. When the stator-to-diaphragm spacing is small (as in a headphone) small deviations from perfect flatness are even more important. PCBs aren't likely to get kinked out of shape unless they're really abused. Thin wires or thin sheets of perforated aluminum, for example, can be a real pain to keep dead flat. Maybe it's less of an issue with a stator of the size needed for headphones, but I found thin malleable material to be a pain when used in larger ESLs when I was also working with small stator-to-diaphragm spacing.

Few
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Old 21st September 2009, 04:14 AM   #194
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Hi Matt, Arend-Jan, Calvin,

How is the progress of your headphones?

I think you need a little pressure from me.

Wachara C.
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Old 21st September 2009, 05:15 PM   #195
vaughn is offline vaughn  United States
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Hey Wachara, I have a few pictures for you...

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

I have completed the energizer, but I haven't actually turned it on yet! I noticed one slight possible discrepancy in my build. I used two sets of the 75K and 10K resistors(a set for each channel) whereas I think you had them shared between the both channels. I don't know if this is going to cause a problem or not. Also, I am dissatisfied with the ribbon cable I have. I ordered some 28awg 9 conductor cable that I planned on stripping 3 conductors from to get the appropriate 6 conductors. Unfortunately I thought it was stranded, but it is solid core and I think this insulator may not withstand the voltage. The last thing I am concerned about it my graphite coating. I followed your recipe for the PVA glue mixture but when I look at it it doesn't look sufficient. I took a picture of the diaphragms against an image so you could see their opacity. I built a crude version of Philippe's tensioning mechanism which seemed to work fine. I did learn a valuable lesson after the third attempt to stretch a diaphragm. Cut the mylar with a soldering iron!! This apparently gives it a "beaded" edge which us much more resistant to tearing.
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Old 21st September 2009, 05:18 PM   #196
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For some reason I am unable to magnify the images I posted. It may be they are too large. Let me know if you are unable to see them and I will post smaller versions.
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Old 22nd September 2009, 09:02 AM   #197
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Hi Matt,

The diaphragm coating is meant to be coated very, very lightly but evenly. So just only a little of the solution is required. After coating, the diaphragm should look only slightly change in color. Yours looks just fine.

About the energizer, you should just try it. I'm sure it's okay too.

I think the pictures you posted here are too large and we can't magnify them. Can you give me a link? I really like to see bigger pictures.

Wachara C.
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Old 22nd September 2009, 02:32 PM   #198
vaughn is offline vaughn  United States
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Try this, I think it might work better...

http://img223.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=img0681zp.jpg
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Old 23rd September 2009, 10:26 AM   #199
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Hi Matt,

Your pictures look nice.

I like the way you tie up the Rps together. They look tidy.

You should just fire the whole thing up and see how it goes. I'm very excited for you.

Wachara C.
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Old 24th September 2009, 02:51 PM   #200
vaughn is offline vaughn  United States
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Thanks Wachara, unfortunately something is going on with my energizer that I need to sort out. My filaments aren't lighting up and I am only measuring -51v on the negative side of the supply. The other side is measuring a little high at 319v. I need to revisit the schematic and compare it against what I have built. I wonder if it is happening where the diode and the negative half of the supply connects to pin 9 on the 12AX7. Oh well, I will get back to you when I have it working(I hate troubleshooting!).
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