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Scalable PSU/regulator GB

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K

ketiloppedal

Member
Joined 2009
I am building the 15V PSU for Orion ASP and accidently destroyed the two input holes when demounting a wrongly soldered diode in D2. The holes seems burned and without the circumferencing metal. I wonder what to do. Do I have to buy a new PCB?

It seems like one of the legs of the diode ends "in the air", is that correct or am I missing something? Maybe I could solder a bit of wire where the connections is lost?

Hope for some feedback :)

Regards,
Ketil
 
BobEllis

BobEllis

Member
Joined 2003
There are no new boards available, so that option is off the table unless someone has extras.

No diode ends in the air. My old eyes sometimes have trouble seeing the connections from a pad to the ground plane. They are in a cross pattern parallel to the board edges.

You could sand off the lacquer on the trace leading to the burned pad and solder a bent diode lead to it. D2 connects to D3 and D4. It's not pretty but you could also solder the lead with no pad to the appropriate connected diode's lead.

There are also board repair materials that allow you to paint a new trace where the trace was burned.
 
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K

ketiloppedal

Member
Joined 2009
Thank you very much :)

I will try out your suggestion. I am very close to finishing the Orions.

Ketil

BobEllis said:
There are no new boards available, so that option is off the table unless someone has extras.

No diode ends in the air. My old eyes sometimes have trouble seeing the connections from a pad to the ground plane. They are in a cross pattern parallel to the board edges.

You could sand off the lacquer on the trace leading to the burned pad and solder a bent diode lead to it. D2 connects to D3 and D4. It's not pretty but you could also solder the lead with no pad to the appropriate connected diode's lead.

There are also board repair materials that allow you to paint a new trace where the trace was burned.
Click to expand...
 
H

Harry3

Member
Joined 2005
Issue building the Regulator

I built a couple up to use on the front end of the Honey Badger amp that I'm building but could not get the regulator to adjust the output voltage to 59 Volts (input 66V).
Cut a long story short I disconnected the R11 (4K3) resistor which was in parallel to the 10K trimmer and it worked.

Not sure if I used the spread sheet correctly or the value of R11 is the equivalent resistance of the two resistors in parallel :rolleyes:
 
K

ketiloppedal

Member
Joined 2009
Current

Hi,

I build one of the PSU's from this project a couple of years ago. It is powering my Orion ASP/XO. I have just bought a DIY DAC from a kickstarter project that needs 15V 2A current and I wonder if the PSU is able to drive both the ASP/XO and DAC together. I cannot find the spec of the PSU and wonder if you remember how many ampere it can deliver.

I appreciate your help :)

Yours sincerely,
Ketil
 
BobEllis

BobEllis

Member
Joined 2003
There are two limiting factors, which can be overcome to deliver several amperes.

The first is the 1N4007 diodes used. They limit the current to approximately 500 mA. Replace them with higher current rectification and you beat that. PSU Designer shows that with a capacitive input filter the diodes see roughly double the output current as their RMS value.

The second limitation is dissipation in the pass transistors. Within reason you could mount them on flying leads to a a larger heat sink, or mount them to a substantial panel on the enclosure to increase heat rejection. If the flying leads are too long you may cause oscillation or noise pickup. To my thinking, an 30mm or so should be OK, but that's a gut feel. Depending on your application you may get away with more or not as much.
 
K

ketiloppedal

Member
Joined 2009
BobEllis said:
There are two limiting factors, which can be overcome to deliver several amperes.

The first is the 1N4007 diodes used. They limit the current to approximately 500 mA. Replace them with higher current rectification and you beat that. PSU Designer shows that with a capacitive input filter the diodes see roughly double the output current as their RMS value.

The second limitation is dissipation in the pass transistors. Within reason you could mount them on flying leads to a a larger heat sink, or mount them to a substantial panel on the enclosure to increase heat rejection. If the flying leads are too long you may cause oscillation or noise pickup. To my thinking, an 30mm or so should be OK, but that's a gut feel. Depending on your application you may get away with more or not as much.
Click to expand...

OK, thank you very much Bob, this was the answer I was looking for :)
 
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