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Old 27th October 2005, 08:42 PM   #41
MattM is offline MattM  United States
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Thanks!
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Old 28th October 2005, 08:26 PM   #42
MattM is offline MattM  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by LastStop
btw, I think that the values for R2, R3, R6, & R8 are marked wrong on the pcb (soft switch). I've assembled the board according to the values listed on the schematic and it seems to work.
R9 as well. Silkscreen is 1K, but parts list and schematic are 22K.
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Old 3rd November 2005, 06:05 PM   #43
VT67 is offline VT67  Belgium
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Robert

The kits arrived today. Man, you realy know how to pack stuff. A fine example of how it should be done, this shows great respect towards the end user.

Best regards

P.S: I already feel sorry that I ordered only one kit with a switch, man they look cool!
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Old 8th November 2005, 04:14 PM   #44
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I received the kits today, and I am impressed by the quality of it all. The packagig, boards and instruction are of a quality most prefessional kist sellers don't meet.

I am glad I recently decided to go for two monoblocks instead of stereo. Now I have two of em cool switches!
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Old 9th November 2005, 12:57 PM   #45
Sander is offline Sander  Netherlands
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Hi Robert,

I've received the kit last week at my parants house. Today I've opened the package I was stunned about the quality of package, boards, parts and documentation. Two tumbs up! thanks a lot!
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Old 22nd November 2005, 05:40 AM   #46
MattM is offline MattM  United States
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OK, I'm building five of these, and the first three are perfect. Hit a problem on unit four...

When testing, it simply does not switch. Comes on in the default on or off state depending on the jumper setting, and the power and switch LED are good, but pressing the switch has no effect.

I started probing around and found that everything downstream of the 4013 is fine. It appears there is too much voltage on the clock input (pin 3). The R7 pull-down resistor tests good, but the voltage starts out too high. It pulls up when the switch is closed, but it is already high, so the 4013 does not strobe.

Here is the comparison to the three working models, all voltages are referenced to ground on J3:

Unit 1 (working)
Supply measured at U1 out: 15.37V
Pin 3 voltage - switch open: 0.0V
Pin 3 voltage - switch closed: 18.3mV

Unit 2 (working)
Supply measured at U1 out: 15.04V
Pin 3 voltage - switch open: 0.0V
Pin 3 voltage - switch closed: 18.2mV

Unit 3 (working)
Supply measured at U1 out: 15.04V
Pin 3 voltage - switch open: 0.0V
Pin 3 voltage - switch closed: 18.1mV

Unit 4 (not working)
Supply measured at U1 out: 18.53V
Pin 3 voltage - switch open: 34.5mV
Pin 3 voltage - switch closed: .653V

The 18V coming off the supply is obviously suspect, but should not be enough to fry the 4013. And while we're on the subject, why am I seeing over 15 volts out of a 12V regulator on the good ones? I tried replacing the 4013 with the one destined for unit 5 and got the same results.

I have to order new 4013's anyway since I basically ruined these soldering and unsoldering them. I guess I should order a couple new voltage regulators as well!

Anyone else ever see a similar problem?

Also, it seems that D1 may be incorrect. It looks like it is masked on the PC card with opposite polarity to the schematic. Could this be why I'm getting too much supply voltage?

Thanks!
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Old 22nd November 2005, 05:55 AM   #47
MattM is offline MattM  United States
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OK, It's D1. I reversed it on the broken unit and the supply now measures a solid 12.00V.

It is incorrect on the PCB mask!

I suspect that it works for most people because the 4013 has an absolute max VCC of 18V, so it is working OK at 15-16V with the diode wrong. I just happened to get one that is putting out 18+ volts and that will not work.

Or has everyone been installing D1 according to the schematic and ignoring the mask? If so, you should have told us about it!
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Old 22nd November 2005, 11:50 AM   #48
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You're right. The silkscreen for D1 is backwards. I didn't catch that and like you said, no one else has spoken up either! Which parts and how many did you ruin trying to to debug the boards? I'll send out free replacements if I have enough to cover your needs without resorting to orde rmore.

Sorry for the trouble.

--Rob
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Old 22nd November 2005, 01:12 PM   #49
MattM is offline MattM  United States
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Rob -

Thanks, but it's no problem.

I screwed up a couple pins on two of the 4013s - it's a bear to unsolder them - but I have to order some stuff from Digikey for another project anyway and they're only a few cents each, so don't worry about it.

As far as D1, it is fairly easy to fix. The metal tabs on it allow for some bending, so you can heat one side, lift slightly, and then get the other side. No need to wick or suction the solder away.

The voltage is MUCH more stable when it's not bypassing the regulator! Go figure.
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Old 23rd November 2005, 01:39 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally posted by Maxhawk
You're right. The silkscreen for D1 is backwards. I didn't catch that and like you said, no one else has spoken up either!

--Rob
Hey Rob,

I'm still waiting to hear if you have 2 more Soft Switch Kits (with or without the cool lighted switches)? And also 4 companion Soft Start Kits?

And thanks Matt for working out the D1 reversal......I had not started poulating my boards yet, and probably never would have noticed this.

I do like to follow the schematics when assembling, but sometimes you are anxious to get it done, and verifying every part by schamatic can sure slow you down.

Robert
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