Soft switch version 2 anyone?

[MattM]

Thanks!

 

[MattM]

btw, I think that the values for R2, R3, R6, & R8 are marked wrong on the pcb (soft switch). I've assembled the board according to the values listed on the schematic and it seems to work.

R9 as well. Silkscreen is 1K, but parts list and schematic are 22K.

 

[VT67]

Robert

The kits arrived today. Man, you realy know how to pack stuff. A fine example of how it should be done, this shows great respect towards the end user.

Best regards

P.S: I already feel sorry that I ordered only one kit with a switch, man they look cool!

 

[Dr_Strangelove]

I received the kits today, and I am impressed by the quality of it all. The packagig, boards and instruction are of a quality most prefessional kist sellers don't meet.

I am glad I recently decided to go for two monoblocks instead of stereo. Now I have two of em cool switches!

 

[Sander]

Hi Robert,

I've received the kit last week at my parants house. Today I've opened the package I was stunned about the quality of package, boards, parts and documentation. Two tumbs up! thanks a lot!

 

[MattM]

OK, I'm building five of these, and the first three are perfect. Hit a problem on unit four...

When testing, it simply does not switch. Comes on in the default on or off state depending on the jumper setting, and the power and switch LED are good, but pressing the switch has no effect.

I started probing around and found that everything downstream of the 4013 is fine. It appears there is too much voltage on the clock input (pin 3). The R7 pull-down resistor tests good, but the voltage starts out too high. It pulls up when the switch is closed, but it is already high, so the 4013 does not strobe.

Here is the comparison to the three working models, all voltages are referenced to ground on J3:

Unit 1 (working)
Supply measured at U1 out: 15.37V
Pin 3 voltage - switch open: 0.0V
Pin 3 voltage - switch closed: 18.3mV

Unit 2 (working)
Supply measured at U1 out: 15.04V
Pin 3 voltage - switch open: 0.0V
Pin 3 voltage - switch closed: 18.2mV

Unit 3 (working)
Supply measured at U1 out: 15.04V
Pin 3 voltage - switch open: 0.0V
Pin 3 voltage - switch closed: 18.1mV

Unit 4 (not working)
Supply measured at U1 out: 18.53V
Pin 3 voltage - switch open: 34.5mV
Pin 3 voltage - switch closed: .653V

The 18V coming off the supply is obviously suspect, but should not be enough to fry the 4013. And while we're on the subject, why am I seeing over 15 volts out of a 12V regulator on the good ones? I tried replacing the 4013 with the one destined for unit 5 and got the same results.

I have to order new 4013's anyway since I basically ruined these soldering and unsoldering them. I guess I should order a couple new voltage regulators as well!

Anyone else ever see a similar problem?

Also, it seems that D1 may be incorrect. It looks like it is masked on the PC card with opposite polarity to the schematic. Could this be why I'm getting too much supply voltage?

Thanks!

 

[MattM]

OK, It's D1. I reversed it on the broken unit and the supply now measures a solid 12.00V.

It is incorrect on the PCB mask!

I suspect that it works for most people because the 4013 has an absolute max VCC of 18V, so it is working OK at 15-16V with the diode wrong. I just happened to get one that is putting out 18+ volts and that will not work.

Or has everyone been installing D1 according to the schematic and ignoring the mask? If so, you should have told us about it!

 

[Maxhawk]

You're right. The silkscreen for D1 is backwards. I didn't catch that and like you said, no one else has spoken up either! Which parts and how many did you ruin trying to to debug the boards? I'll send out free replacements if I have enough to cover your needs without resorting to orde rmore.

Sorry for the trouble.

--Rob

 

[MattM]

Rob -

Thanks, but it's no problem.

I screwed up a couple pins on two of the 4013s - it's a bear to unsolder them - but I have to order some stuff from Digikey for another project anyway and they're only a few cents each, so don't worry about it.

As far as D1, it is fairly easy to fix. The metal tabs on it allow for some bending, so you can heat one side, lift slightly, and then get the other side. No need to wick or suction the solder away.

The voltage is MUCH more stable when it's not bypassing the regulator! Go figure.

 

[rjkdivin]

You're right. The silkscreen for D1 is backwards. I didn't catch that and like you said, no one else has spoken up either!

--Rob

Hey Rob,

I'm still waiting to hear if you have 2 more Soft Switch Kits (with or without the cool lighted switches)? And also 4 companion Soft Start Kits?

And thanks Matt for working out the D1 reversal......I had not started poulating my boards yet, and probably never would have noticed this.

I do like to follow the schematics when assembling, but sometimes you are anxious to get it done, and verifying every part by schamatic can sure slow you down.

Robert

 

[fcel]

Rob ... does this D1 reversal applies to the version 1 board - the very first version board where it is really not a group buy?

 

[Maxhawk]

Rob ... does this D1 reversal applies to the version 1 board - the very first version board where it is really not a group buy?

No, it does not. I don't believe I had put any type of polarity indication on the earlier versions.

 

[AR2]

Hello Robert,
I do not know if you have problems receiving my emails, but I sent few without any answer. Could you please help me since i do not know where is the problem and I really would like to complete this project.
I have assembled all 4 soft switches that I received from you and tested two of them. The problem I have is that when power is connected green Led on the board is lit and blue led on the switch is lit, but when switch is pressed nothing happens - no switching occurs. If I pull the terminator from On to Off position or vice versa than I could hear relay switching, obviously while powered. That is the only way to get switch to switch.
I tested the second board with the same switch and it acted the same way. Didn't want to test other two boards in order to preserve them if I did something wrong. I tested without any load and no fuses are blown. Obviously the power is on since leds are light... Everything seems to work fine besides main function - switching. Nothing seems burned, or problematic...
Do you have any idea what I did wrong
I would appreciate your help very much
Thank you
AR2

 

[Maxhawk]

Hello Robert,
I do not know if you have problems receiving my emails, but I sent few without any answer. Could you please help me since i do not know where is the problem and I really would like to complete this project.
AR2

Sorry, I have not received any emails. I do check my spam filter every now and then and have not seen anything there either.

I will send you an email and we can continue this discussion offline.


--Rob

 

[AR2]

Thank you.
I always had great communication with you, so i know something was wrong.
I repliead to the email.

 

[MattM]

... Everything seems to work fine besides main function - switching. Nothing seems burned, or problematic...
Do you have any idea what I did wrong
I would appreciate your help very much
Thank you
AR2

You probably covered this in your emails already, but that's the exact symptoms I had on unit #4 until I corrected the D1 polarity.

The excess voltage causes the pin 3 input on the 4013 to stay high all the time, thus no switching.

 

[Cobra2]

Switches done...!

My switches ... finally done !

Arne K

 

[VT67]

My switches ... finally done !

Mine also! Only one drawback,......they don't switch
If I apply power to the unit, both the LED on the PCB and the blue ring in the push button lite up. If I press the push button both go out, and so and so on but the relay stays silent. I reversed D1 as was mentioned earlier and I measure 11,94VDC on both units. Is there a possibility that I overheated a transistor

Regards

 

[Maxhawk]

Mine also! Only one drawback,......they don't switch
If I apply power to the unit, both the LED on the PCB and the blue ring in the push button lite up. If I press the push button both go out, and so and so on but the relay stays silent. I reversed D1 as was mentioned earlier and I measure 11,94VDC on both units. Is there a possibility that I overheated a transistor

Regards

The switch/flip-flop is working since the LED is changing state when you press the button. If you have a DVM you can check each leg of transistor Q1 to see what's happening. The base of Q1 should match the LED: high when LED is on and low when LED is off. The collector for Q1 should be high when the LED is on and low when the LED is off. If D3 was installed backwards, then Q1 will fail because of excess current. If you have the PNP transistor installed in the place of Q1, then the circuit will not work.

Let me know what you find out.

 

[VT67]

Maxhawk

After inspecting both boards I found the following errors.
On one board I reversed D3
On the other one I mixed up Q1 with Q6

I already corrected the D3 error but still no switching. I'm gonna put everything away for a while and come back on it when I feel less p****d about it.

Cheers